A Little Guidance For Rifle Project..

I am yet to paint a stock, but I have done a barrel. I used 0000 steel wool to remove the rust and what blueing was left. Next I wiped it all down with an automotive surface prep. When I was ready to paint I used Krylon primer and Krylon camo flat black. I am really happy with the way it turned out.
I would post pics, but the gun is in the shop for drill and tap for scope mounts.

Good luck,
Adam
 
For the metal I'm a huge fan of K-G Coatings, from way back in the '80s when I had my motorcycle shop. On aluminum or stainless, blast lightly with aluminum oxide (not sand or glass beads), remove any dust or oil with lacquer thinner or acetone, heat slightly (to about 50°C, almost too hot to touch, but of course, don't touch it), spray with a very light pattern, many super thin coats are preffereable to a couple thick coats. When you have enough coverage to get the colour you want, bake it according to the instructions.
For carbon steel, the recommendation is that you parkerize after the blasting. I never did, and never had a problem; but for my next project I'll park the steel.
Ed Begg, V-Bull is the dealer.
 
One of our members, Murdoc sells "Armacoat" I haven't used it personally, yet; but I've heard good things about it. The big advantage of it over the K-G coatings is that it is a chemically cured 2-part epoxy type paint rather than the heat cured stuff, so it can be apllied to wood or some plastics that generally don't enjoy baking at 300-350°F
 
i have done 2 of my own stocks, plus an M14 stock for another CGN member, my first stock was done with bedliner as a base coat then krylon camo topped off with flat clear coat, the next one * the m14* was a fiberglass stock and was done in krylon camo and flat clear the most recent was done with excel specklestone "granite effect" with beautiful silver marbling.

for the syn/fiber glass stocks i smoothed the hard edges, then scuff with a coarse brillo pad "look in the auto body section at CT, dont use the green one from your wifes sink they dont like it and they will beat you later".
once the scuffing was done i dawned a pair of vinyl surgical gloves and degreased it*brake clean works good here*. after degreaseing wait no more then 20 minutes to apply primer *keep the gloves on, the oils in your hands effect the paint*. after primer has set 1 hour min rescuff with a fresh scuffing pad and wipe with a clean lint free cloth *chamois cloth for eye wear or polishing works wonders* spray your base color let set for suggested drying time and move upo to the top. once your final coat is on let cure for 1 week before seeing use.

for the wood same deal really just remeber to seal the wood properly after wards
 
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