A soaking tube for removing oil residue from wood rifle stocks?

Steel 5 gallon pail...if you have a fiberglass supplier in your area, that’s how they sell it (actone)quarts...gallon...5 gallon...45 gallon drums ...etc.

I buy it in 5 gallon pails,makes it easier to move it around.
So you could kill two birds with one stone.... order a 5 gallon pail of actone...
I have 2 or 3 steel pails kicking around , if you need one ( with the steel lid) let me know...I think your in BC...So shipping would kill ya.
Or a pail suppiler might be able to hook you up.
The pails works great fo LE butt stock work...or shotgun stocks...etc, (small pieces)or you could buy an old grease drum, they make them in 15 gallon drums...about 3-4 feet tall( I would have to measure mine)mine has a lid that clamps on with a ring clamp,...clean and fill with your favourite fluid .
Just take a trip to one of the transport service center, most of the time there is no refund on the the old grease drum, and they will give them away...or almost give them away. The grease , in the drum is in a plastic bag, makes for easy clean up of the barrel. Most of the time the only thing , that has grease on it ...is the lid.
Nothing to make...nothing to break....and I love building things lol.
Cheers
B
 
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Lots of good ideas on this thread. I am trying to invent or discover something for soaking P14 /M1917 full length stocks. From the top line of fore end to bottom tip of butt, looking at 6 1/2" deep or so. Overall length of the stocks about 43" or so. Pretty much 2" thick at the action. Was thinking to make a box from plywood (ends, sides, bottom) - say 3" wide, 45" long, 7" deep (inside dimensions), then paint inside with one or two coats of Epoxy resin. "Resin in" a drain tap through bottom to recover the fluid. Use a full length cover while soaking, to minimize evaporation. Am I overlooking anything?
 
Very limited experience with resin and fibreglass mat - was thinking the resin would create a "fluid proof" skin especially at the joints - not sure what the fibreglass mat would add? Strength of the box would be in the plywood, or am I once again missing something? Was thinking to coat the inside surfaces of the box, before assembling the pieces - "glue and screw", then paint all inside joints/corners with another layer of resin?
 
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BCRider said:
Close to home here I haven't actually seen any of those long pipes with multiple spoked wheels that stretch across the field. Likely because most of the local fields end up in corn for about 3 out of 5 years. And they can't use that rig in tall corn. They tend to use really powerful sprinklers. Or for the fields that are in grass they pull a big hose around behind a tractor that has a "soup" spreading spray bar. But none of the long pipes with wheels along the length. So no caches of the pipe either.

I've also never worked with that particular pipe. I have no idea of what the diameter is or the wall thickness. Plus keep in mind I have to cap and seal what will be the bottom end. Sure I could go out and have a piece welded on. But that would cost a lot more than the heating duct which I can solder myself easily with tools and supplies I already have on hand. There's lots of options I'm sure. But this one will be cheaper and easier for me. And being metal there's no guessing about if it will hold the solvent or not. Plus it will be easy to form the top open end into an oval that takes the height of the butt ends but still minimizes the amount of solvent I have to use.
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You are not looking for the pipe from Wheel lines (your long pipes on wheels) so much as a section of the feeder mainline that they draw the water from.

I have a pile of damaged irrigation pipe around here, up to 10 inch diameter Aluminum Mainline, down to 2 inch diameter Hand Move sections.

Hard to go wrong with basic mild steel though. It's durable, cheap, and easy to weld without anything special in the way of gear. I think if I wanted to soak a stock, I would start where you thought to, some rectangular tube, and split a section and fill in with wedges of same thickness stock to make essentially a steel 'sheath' that was a fair enough close fit to avoid having to buy too much solvent.
 
If you have a furnace room, just put the stocks next to the furnace and let the heat do it. Check it and wipe off the oil. This way you
dont wreck the original wood. Chemicals change the wood
 
B_noser said:
A thin layer of resin might crack at some point due to flexing or a joint loosening. The mat would add to rigidity and shouldn't crack.
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I'd say that there's no "but" about it. It may last a few times but eventually it will crack and let the solvent leak out into the wood or directly out onto the floor.

Can14, I've used the black plastic bag "oven" out on a hot sunny summer day to sweat out the goop on my Mosin Nagant stocks. It worked well for prepping the wood to prep it for a boiled linseed oil finish. But I would not trust it as prep for a glued joint. Just because heating to sweat the oil out only thins the oil out and spreads it. It doesn't actually remove ALL the oil from the wood. Granted technically the solvent doesn't totally remove the oil either. But it does a better job of thinning it so there's less of it left in the wood.

I suspect that a detergent like Murphy's or other would work best. But those options would require a good firm water rinse to flush away the detergent out of the cracks to prep for gluing. And I didn't want to use water which would require a LOT longer drying time and raise the wood grain.
 
I use the black plastic bag oven but put a bunch of fine sawdust in to cover the stock and then a couple of days in the sun changing the sawdust a couple of times. Really drew the oil out of a couple of old stocks I have refinished but I have never tried it on a cracked one to clean the crack.
 
Use a hot air /heat gun and wipe off as it sweats out. When it slows down enough then soak it in acetone and then use the hot air again and alternate till it is bone dry. I just cut the lid off of a tin acetone can and alternate end for end.
Acetone will attack the epoxy and it will melt and fail over time .Paint remover has acetone in it.Abs will turn to goo .
 
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