ABC's of reloading
- Thread starter Pocketsx
- Start date
Speaking of labelling things - now when i load test, I just label each cartridge with its load with a sharpie - before this, too many times one that is not labelled has got mixed up and then all the work is fudged.... so for example, on my 300 wsm, i simply write something like "66.2 r17 2.86" on the case - powder weight/type of powder/COL... this writing all comes off in the tumbler.
- Location
- Calgary, AB
I use different color sharpies to mark the primers when working up loads. Red is always max 
I use different color sharpies to mark the primers when working up loads. Red is always max
And I thought I was king of the felt tip
. You guys are way ahead of me. Great Ideas, consider em stolen .I use different color sharpies to mark the primers when working up loads. Red is always max
I just start getting into reloading. Already has reloaded thousands of rounds and saved hundreds of dollars. I never run my loads to the max, but it is a good thought. Thanks for the tip.
- Location
- Calgary, AB
I just start getting into reloading. Already has reloaded thousands of rounds and saved hundreds of dollars. I never run my loads to the max, but it is a good thought. Thanks for the tip.
I usually load them in groups of three for each bullet/powder combo and alternate between blue, black and red sharpie. Then use a dot, an x and then a / to denote each charge. The only time I use red is with magnums. They seem to shoot better at or near max.
Works for me anyway.
I do virtually the same. I have 5 different sharpe colors and I color code the label on the box with the primer color so that if by chance the box was to come open and the rounds all fall out, I just put them back in order again.
I usually make groups of 5 rounds when I am load developing and increase the powder by .3 grains depending of course if it is pistol or rifle. After the shooting session I pick out the top 3 groups and log them into my excel spreadsheet and I have a few other programs that I use also. Then next time at the range I make up 10 rounds of each of the best 3 that I found before and from this I make my choice of best recipe.
Make good notes and keep a binder that you can reference at anytime. I keep all my best group targets that I use so instantly I can refer right to the target with the recipe on it and also in the recipe section of the binder. I can reference back to the late 70's for a specific rifle and load if I want to, comes in very handy.
I do the same and keep detailed logs on what primers, bullet weight, charges, OL dimensions and number of rounds loaded for future reference.
The advice about getting the latest edition is good advice. However if you can find an older edition written by Dean Grennell at a good price....buy it. It will be worth it just for the entertainment value! That man was seriously funny!! I mean side splitting funny 
He was more of an experimenter than a volume reloader, so you wont learn much about cranking out 5000 rounds an hour, but you will learn lots of other stuff.
Enjoy the ride.
He was more of an experimenter than a volume reloader, so you wont learn much about cranking out 5000 rounds an hour, but you will learn lots of other stuff.
Enjoy the ride.
IMO, The ABCs - any edition - is an excellent start. It introduces a novice to the concepts and practices, allows him or her to understand what is going on and why.
You will also need a current reloading manual, one put out by one of the major component firms. Which one is primarily a matter of taste; none are bad. They'll give you the recipes to use. And I would strongly suggest that until you get a feel for what you are doing, that you only use loads from that book. There are some solid people putting good info on the internet, but there are also some real cowboys - stick to the book, at least at first.
Lots of good advice here. Take it slow, check and recheck, leave the powder container on the reloading bench, keep records.
I rarely find myself disagreeing with H4831, but in this case, I think somebody showing you how they do it is a good idea. If you see that they're sloppy, that's they leave spilled powder lying about, if they don't check things a couple of times - settings, propellant type and such, if they do things by memory instead of consulting the book or their records - then just move on, but you can pick up a lot that way.
You will also need a current reloading manual, one put out by one of the major component firms. Which one is primarily a matter of taste; none are bad. They'll give you the recipes to use. And I would strongly suggest that until you get a feel for what you are doing, that you only use loads from that book. There are some solid people putting good info on the internet, but there are also some real cowboys - stick to the book, at least at first.
Lots of good advice here. Take it slow, check and recheck, leave the powder container on the reloading bench, keep records.
I rarely find myself disagreeing with H4831, but in this case, I think somebody showing you how they do it is a good idea. If you see that they're sloppy, that's they leave spilled powder lying about, if they don't check things a couple of times - settings, propellant type and such, if they do things by memory instead of consulting the book or their records - then just move on, but you can pick up a lot that way.
Although H4831 has been reloading longer than I've been alive I totally agree.
I had a friend show me on my first batch - 30-30. The first thing he recommended was to load the maximum load. I had read enough to know not to start at the max and instead opted to run a few dozen of the minimum load.
His advise was well intended but wrong.
beleive it or not, some of the powder companies actually offered a BROCHURE with all of the steps in it at one time- of course, it was limited to THEIR powders/bullets and didn't contain much, if any , referance information- pics of head separations, ballistics tables, pressure signs, etc- but if you can show all the steps in a THROW AWAY BROCHURE, and FOLLOW IT EXACTLY , it can't be all that hard
today, i don't see the NEED for having a reloading manual at all- all the information needed is on site if you know WHERE to look- nATIONAL RELOADING MANUFACTURERS site , or youtube, one has ALL THE STEPS - it's when you introduce "variables' that you get into problems- like this powder is close to that powder, so i'll use it, or magnum primers for standard, etc
today, i don't see the NEED for having a reloading manual at all- all the information needed is on site if you know WHERE to look- nATIONAL RELOADING MANUFACTURERS site , or youtube, one has ALL THE STEPS - it's when you introduce "variables' that you get into problems- like this powder is close to that powder, so i'll use it, or magnum primers for standard, etc
I concur. Dean Grennell was an excellent writer.
A third vote for Dean Grenell. The post Grenell editions were boring to me when I read them.
