about blue rusting...need a big pan

G

godgab

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Hi guys, I'm doing the blue on a friend rimfire using express rust blue. So I need to boil parts, etc.
for smalls parts it's ok but for the barrel I'll need a big pan of some sort.
So do you guys know any place I can find these? and do I absolutly need distilled water or it's not required? If it is where can I find some?

thanks for everything
Gab
 
My first boiling tray for barrels was a three foot piece of aluminum rain gutter with the end caps sealed with high temperature silicon and pop rivets. It worked very well but was a bit tippy.

I've since gone to 3" square tubing with one side cut out and the ends welded up with plate steel.

BoilingSetup001.jpg


I always use distilled water because that is the recommendation in most of the literature on rust bluing. I get mine from the local drug store.
 
P0WERWAGON said:
dude there is no way you are married :)

if my wife saw me doing that in the kitchen, my nuts would be in the pan with the gun parts.
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I've been married to the same, great woman for 36 years and she's very tolerant of some of the stuff I pull.:D

Besides. it's no big deal, I'm only boiling water.

And I try to do it when she's not home.:)
 
"...off hot bluing ..." It's not the fumes. It's the rusting of everything ferrous in the room from the salts that go into the air.
Use the distilled water. Tap water has a whole bunch of chemicals in it. Minute quantities sure, but they're still there.
For the pan, you'll have to have it made. You'll need a way of controlling the temperature too.
 
You guys are confusing hot chemical bluing with express rust bluing and slow rust bluing.

With the rust blues, there is no boiling of chemical solutions. Just water is boiled.
 
Ok... I too am confused...
So, I have a shotgun here that has been bead blasted and I am trying to get it finished...

You mean I can boil it in water and get a nice blueing with no risk of exposure to toxic chemicals?

Can someone please post exact steps to doing this??

Thanks in advance... I'll be doing this this weekend if the steps are clear and easy to follow :)
 
If the bluing is going to be placed into the boiling (or boiled) water, to be on the safe side may I suggest that you do this outside on the barbecue or coleman stove. Wouldn't like to see you inhale anything toxic.
 
RoadAppleRed said:
If the bluing is going to be placed into the boiling (or boiled) water, to be on the safe side may I suggest that you do this outside on the barbecue or coleman stove. Wouldn't like to see you inhale anything toxic.
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It's not necessary to go outside.

Here's some links for those who wish to know more.

http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archives/Aug03/HowTo.htm

http://www.winrest.com/blueinstructions.html

Also, do a search in the gunsmithing forum using 'rust' as a keyword and Mauser98 in the member field. I posted a bunch of stuff earlier this year.

G37 said:
Ok... I too am confused...
So, I have a shotgun here that has been bead blasted and I am trying to get it finished...

You mean I can boil it in water and get a nice blueing with no risk of exposure to toxic chemicals?

Can someone please post exact steps to doing this??

Thanks in advance... I'll be doing this this weekend if the steps are clear and easy to follow :)
Click to expand...

Here's a quick and dirty explanation

RUST BLUING Chemical/Process

The process of rust-bluing involves applying the rust-blue chemical, then allowing the part to surface-rust. After a good coat of brownish rust is built up, the part is boiled for about 10 minutes. The boiling turns the brown rust to a black oxide. When cool, the black oxide is 'carded' off with steel wool or a carding wheel, leaving the surface blackened. Usually 3-4 cycles is needed. My recommendation for rust-blue formula is Pilkington's American Rust-Blue, from Brownell's.
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Hi there,,just new to this forum ,,but have been rust bluing for years. I live in the country and use my tap water. Before going to the expense of distilled try your tap water. The worst that can happen is it will streak on you and you just have to polish back and start again. I do my boiling in the basement and have never had a problem with fumes My email is "fast.ex@hotmail.com " and I don't have too much time for this site but do check my hotmail most every day. Would be happy to help if you need any more advise
 
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