Accuracy loss after cleaning. Question?

I do not think modern carbon steel or stainless steel, after machining - has any "pores" - is not cast iron or cast bronze like cannon barrels were several hundred years ago. But, what "works" is important - I might disagree "why" it works, but I do use a borescope to see what is in there when I start, and what is in there when I think I am done. I am not a high end target shooter - most of my targets have an inch diameter circle on them - if I can put three or five rounds into that 1" circle at 100 yards - my load, my rifle "tuning" is done - is good enough for me. I did have a Savage 112V in 22-250 - I watched an acquaintance use it from sandbags at 100 yards - was a five sided lumpy "hole" on the target paper - the case head of a fired 22-250 shell completely covered the hole in the paper - so likely a 1/4" C-C group - my rifle, my 10X Lyman scope, my hand loads. I fired probably hundreds of groups with that rifle - I never did get a group that close together - I think he was just a better shooter than I am - I do not know why he shot such a good group, but he did it.
Every steel has micrscopic pores. These are not seen with a borescope.
 
I will do this again, using WipeOut. It calls to be in the bore for a full hour before patching and for stubborn copper leave it in overnight.
I usually do 2 hours or 1 hour with the accelerator stuff. I have left it overnight though, it works fine. The only downside is it’s a little messy and not great if you’re in a hurry. A boreguide and some tape or a finger cot on the muzzle seems to contain the mess though
 
I have gone through several aerosol cans of Foaming Wipeout Spray - I have a clear plastic tube thing that replaces the "cap"on the spray can - other end goes into the chamber - maybe a part second "spray" to get foam coming out muzzle end - is "normal" for me that I would leave that soak overnight. For really cruddy old milsurp bores, I would run a bore brush back and forth through in there in the morning - then dry patches - usually three of them.
 
I have gone through several aerosol cans of Foaming Wipeout Spray - I have a clear plastic tube thing that replaces the "cap"on the spray can - other end goes into the chamber - maybe a part second "spray" to get foam coming out muzzle end - is "normal" for me that I would leave that soak overnight. For really cruddy old milsurp bores, I would run a bore brush back and forth through in there in the morning - then dry patches - usually three of them.
Yeah that’s good advice. I recently started doing that too. A 3/8” tube will fit on the can and a 1/4” tube will fit inside the 3/8” one. That will give you whatever combo you want to apply at the chamber or muzzle in most calibers without making a mess. Throw that little black cone out haha
 
Update .... I filled the bore with Wipe Out and have left it for about an hour now. I was surprised to see this much blue in the foam. Will now have to go down this bunny trail and see how this works out cleaning it better.

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I think that old gun is stressing you out. I’d give you enough money to buy a brand new package deal, cnc’d meatal and plastic parts so nothing to fuss about.
Seems like I’ve tried to help you out of that rifle before…..
 
I think that old gun is stressing you out. I’d give you enough money to buy a brand new package deal, cnc’d meatal and plastic parts so nothing to fuss about.
Seems like I’ve tried to help you out of that rifle before…..
LOL .... I'll keep that in mind, but I now actually have a bit of history with that rifle. I shot a smaller bull on NFLD back in the covid and shot the deer of a life time (for these parts) last year. :)

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Get it clean and try again. But I wonder if the stock has shifted enough in the forend to cause some issues.
I have now done three Wipe Outs after the initial session with the CR-10. The 1st gave me a good bit of blue but the one after was all white. I just put in another squirt and will leave that till after lunch.

The forend fitment around the bbl was always tight, but never binding. I can get a pc of paper to move around the bbl freely. I don't think it has shifted.
 
The cans of Wipe Out I have came with a small straw, but I usually fill from the muzzle without it. Mine have that little cone shaped thingy on it that works well without the straw at the muzzle.

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I have now done three Wipe Outs after the initial session with the CR-10. The 1st gave me a good bit of blue but the one after was all white. I just put in another squirt and will leave that till after lunch.

The forend fitment around the bbl was always tight, but never binding. I can get a pc of paper to move around the bbl freely. I don't think it has shifted.
I’d just give it another go after it’s clean. But I will say 100 rounds can be a bit of a transition period for some barrels. Not always, but it can be. I usually get cases formed and get an idea of what’s going on but don’t start serious load development until after that many rounds are down the barrel.
 
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