i've been looking for a non restricted semi auto .223 that won't break the bank, and so far my current favourite option is the AR180b. i don't want match accuracy, but something that can shoot minute of jackrabbit out to 250-300 yards(with a scope of course) is there anything that can be done to improve their accuracy? i've read they'll do an inch at 100 yards, and that was with factory ammo so i assume handloads can improve that as well. are there aftermarket stocks available that have a more suitable comb/cheekpiece for scope use? another option is an accurized Mini-14, which will cost more in the long run, and i prefer the look and feel of the AR. and there's the bonus of legal 10 round mags!
accurizing an AR180B- what can be done?
- Thread starter kevin.303
- Start date
Handloads and free-float the barrel. There really isn't much else, the rifle was never designed to shoot more than minute of Commie out to 300. You could have a custom heavy barrel mounted, maybe. Hopefully in the next couple months I'll get around to trying to mount a heavy AR15 barrel and see if that works.
I'd say that a Target Mini-14 would be a better way to go as far as accuracy is concerned, and I believe they're priced very close to the AR180B. Then again they are two very different rifle a part from some key factors so it's all up to you.
I've been working on the same project...an accurate AR180B suitable for varmints. I have no interest in a commie-fighting rifle, just an accurate varmint gun. Out of the box, mine wasn't. Mind you, the 12 pound trigger pull didn't help. That was the first thing I fixed. I took it down to 4 lbs without buying any aftermarket parts. I might go that route yet.
Then I sawed the rear sight off, milled it flat and made a rail that I screwed down on top of the upper. I mounted a scope (solid and low) on that and then started working on handloads.
I found it liked Hornady 60gr V-Max the best, shooting 5 rd groups of around 1.5" (too often they were larger) when I crossed my fingers just right. But it wasn't consistent. I shot a bunch of coyotes, including three in a row at 200 yards with that load and then the hinge broke.
Wolverine Supplies replaced the lower quicker than I could say "mangy coyote" and I was back in business. But I didn't want to break another hinge so I made a recoil lug from a piece of aluminum bar stock, attaching it to the bottom rear of the upper and "glassed" it into a convenient depression in the lower, right above the pistol grip. It's invisible from the outside and really solidifies the mating of the upper and lower. I've put 200 rds through it since then and it has improved accuracy and consistency. If it will improve longevity remains to be seen, but I believe the lug will do that.
However, it still isn't a sub MOA gun. My best 5 shot group after the lug installation is 1 1/8". I never came close to that before. However, it's still not there. If I could get CONSISTENT groups of that size I'd be happy. I've shot several more coyotes with it since doing that work, including a one shot kill on a fox at over 280 lasered yards.
I haven't done enough range work to be convinced of its consistency yet. That's important to me. It needs to be able to hold point of impact and shoot well every time I take it out and shoot it on paper. In the past it has had good days and bad days.
Random Comments:
- For my purposes I really, really like the light weight of the 180B and I much prefer the AR-like handling over the Ruger Mini-14.
- The gun is under-built, especially the hinge.
- With all the work I've done to mine, I think I'm now getting close to what I want in a semi-auto varmint rifle. That means it's light in weight and accurate enough for bigger varmints, like coyotes. It's not accurate enough for gophers, but I don't use it for that.
- If you have to pay to get this kind of work done, the gun might not be for you.
- how many shots are those sub 1" groups you've heard about based on...3?
I've had sub 1/2 inch 3 shot groups with mine, but the other 2 made for a
4inch group. Personally, I don't think three shot groups are worth a pinch of coyote poop.
- If someone has an honest to God, box-stock, five shot group, consistent sub MOA AR180B, they are incredibly lucky. I wish it was me.
-Is mine for sale? No way. I think it has potential and I'm not done with it yet. I just might rebarrel with a quality barrel before I'm done.
triggerpress
Then I sawed the rear sight off, milled it flat and made a rail that I screwed down on top of the upper. I mounted a scope (solid and low) on that and then started working on handloads.
I found it liked Hornady 60gr V-Max the best, shooting 5 rd groups of around 1.5" (too often they were larger) when I crossed my fingers just right. But it wasn't consistent. I shot a bunch of coyotes, including three in a row at 200 yards with that load and then the hinge broke.
Wolverine Supplies replaced the lower quicker than I could say "mangy coyote" and I was back in business. But I didn't want to break another hinge so I made a recoil lug from a piece of aluminum bar stock, attaching it to the bottom rear of the upper and "glassed" it into a convenient depression in the lower, right above the pistol grip. It's invisible from the outside and really solidifies the mating of the upper and lower. I've put 200 rds through it since then and it has improved accuracy and consistency. If it will improve longevity remains to be seen, but I believe the lug will do that.
However, it still isn't a sub MOA gun. My best 5 shot group after the lug installation is 1 1/8". I never came close to that before. However, it's still not there. If I could get CONSISTENT groups of that size I'd be happy. I've shot several more coyotes with it since doing that work, including a one shot kill on a fox at over 280 lasered yards.
I haven't done enough range work to be convinced of its consistency yet. That's important to me. It needs to be able to hold point of impact and shoot well every time I take it out and shoot it on paper. In the past it has had good days and bad days.
Random Comments:
- For my purposes I really, really like the light weight of the 180B and I much prefer the AR-like handling over the Ruger Mini-14.
- The gun is under-built, especially the hinge.
- With all the work I've done to mine, I think I'm now getting close to what I want in a semi-auto varmint rifle. That means it's light in weight and accurate enough for bigger varmints, like coyotes. It's not accurate enough for gophers, but I don't use it for that.
- If you have to pay to get this kind of work done, the gun might not be for you.
- how many shots are those sub 1" groups you've heard about based on...3?
I've had sub 1/2 inch 3 shot groups with mine, but the other 2 made for a
4inch group. Personally, I don't think three shot groups are worth a pinch of coyote poop.
- If someone has an honest to God, box-stock, five shot group, consistent sub MOA AR180B, they are incredibly lucky. I wish it was me.
-Is mine for sale? No way. I think it has potential and I'm not done with it yet. I just might rebarrel with a quality barrel before I'm done.
triggerpress
Here's a couple of pics:
This one is of the scope mount:
and this is the lug and its matching Acraglas seat:
Actually, the lug works in two directions and that's why I theorize it protects the hinge. Of course, it acts as a recoil shoulder like a normal recoil lug; but recoil isn't what's stressing the hinge. My theory is that the hinge is being stressed when that big heavy bolt carrier slams forward and goes into battery. If you look at the design of the gun the only thing keeping the carrier from driving the whole upper receiver off of the lower is the 1/8" of plastic that comprises the forward edge of the hinge. I'm hoping this chunk of aluminum will bear against the lower at what is obviously a much sturdier point and take the pounding there, instead of at the hinge. That makes it a return-to-battery lug, I guess. I should know in about 500 rds if it's going to work.
triggerpress
This one is of the scope mount:
and this is the lug and its matching Acraglas seat:
Actually, the lug works in two directions and that's why I theorize it protects the hinge. Of course, it acts as a recoil shoulder like a normal recoil lug; but recoil isn't what's stressing the hinge. My theory is that the hinge is being stressed when that big heavy bolt carrier slams forward and goes into battery. If you look at the design of the gun the only thing keeping the carrier from driving the whole upper receiver off of the lower is the 1/8" of plastic that comprises the forward edge of the hinge. I'm hoping this chunk of aluminum will bear against the lower at what is obviously a much sturdier point and take the pounding there, instead of at the hinge. That makes it a return-to-battery lug, I guess. I should know in about 500 rds if it's going to work.
triggerpress
Actually, I'd rather not. I haven't done enough AR trigger work to try and guide someone else through one. I feel comfortable enough to do my own but that's the limit of my expertise. Sorry. Maybe a REAL expert wouldn't mind posting the procedure, but I'm not one.
triggerpress
triggerpress
Just google AR15 trigger job.
Very nice mod "triggerpress"
I'll start by saying I'm no expert but my opinion is accuracy depends on the barrel, trigger and optics. The 180b wasn't design to be a tack driver. The recoil lug mod is a really good method of keeping the stamped receiver (where the optics are mounted) in line with the barrel. A good trigger job would help tremendously also. But I think a good custom heavy barrel (matchgrade), freefloated, is a necessary upgrade.
Then again what do I know?!!
I'll start by saying I'm no expert but my opinion is accuracy depends on the barrel, trigger and optics. The 180b wasn't design to be a tack driver. The recoil lug mod is a really good method of keeping the stamped receiver (where the optics are mounted) in line with the barrel. A good trigger job would help tremendously also. But I think a good custom heavy barrel (matchgrade), freefloated, is a necessary upgrade.
Then again what do I know?!!
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