Action movement in fiberforce stock.
- Thread starter suprathepeg
- Start date
- Location
- Spruce Grove, Alberta
Sks-d?
If you just want to make it better I'm sure fiberglass could do the job. If you want to do everything as best as possible, acraglass (or some other bedding compound) would be the best. I've heard of many people using jb weld to for bedding compound. On an sks I would not lose sleep over using jb weld.
- Location
- Surrey, BC
This is my plan as well, in fact there are pics somewhere in this forum of a bedding job done w/JB weld and car wax as a release agent, looked pretty good and probably strong as helldh79 said:
Alternately, I've also drilled & tapped a 10-32 hole through the back of the trigger group (about 3/4" aft of the trigger group latch) that goes up through a hole in the stock and threads into the reciever. I'll take pics sometime so I don't have to sit here and explain it Cinches up the action REALLY tight, no movement whatsoever. Now I just need to bed the front ferrule, and ideally I'd like to put a bolt through the cleaning rod hole into a gob of JB weld or something, in order to hold the front ferrule securely as well. Work in progress...poweredbybeer said:This is my plan as well, in fact there are pics somewhere in this forum of a bedding job done w/JB weld and car wax as a release agent, looked pretty good and probably strong as hell
Exactly what I was thinking. I'm gonna do this this week.
One question. Do you find that the bolt cover takedown pin doesn't line up very well with the stock? That the rifle would fit the stock better if it were sitting back that 1/8 of an inch? I found that I had to trim a bit off the front of my synthetic stock to get it to fit right. When I put the rifle together, I could see that the front ferrule didn't sit down flush. I figured that there was a little extra flash from molding. Now it all sits in there very nicely.
If not, then just ignore me.
If not, then just ignore me.
- Location
- Surrey, BC
I found exactly the same thing with my Fiberforce stock. I suspect the front ferrule boss is made intentionally too long, in order to fit the sloppy tolerances of most SKS's. I rasped/filed the front ferrule area of the stock until that 1/8" gap at the "ducktail" behind the reciever disappeared, now the barrel & action just drops in easily.Ripstop said:One question. Do you find that the bolt cover takedown pin doesn't line up very well with the stock? That the rifle would fit the stock better if it were sitting back that 1/8 of an inch? I found that I had to trim a bit off the front of my synthetic stock to get it to fit right. When I put the rifle together, I could see that the front ferrule didn't sit down flush. I figured that there was a little extra flash from molding. Now it all sits in there very nicely.
If not, then just ignore me.
- Location
- Surrey, BC
Most of the products labeled "liquid steel" or "liquid metal" are simply iron filings or aluminum filings (aka; floor sweepings) suspended in an epoxy putty mix. Fiberglass can also be suspended in putty mixtures, but Liquid Steel uses iron filings as a matrix to provide support for the surrounding epoxy putty. It works great, nothing wrong with it at all, in fact it'll probably last longer than the surrounding Zytel if you use it on one of your ATI stocks Imagine your rifle in the dump, 500 years from now, with cracked & flaking Zytel and a liquid-steel bedded front ferrule shimmering in the dirt, untouched by corrosion or wear or the elements Kinda inspiring, isn't it? LOL!!!
Imagine your rifle in the dump, 500 years from now, with cracked & flaking Zytel and a liquid-steel bedded front ferrule shimmering in the dirt, untouched by corrosion or wear or the elements Kinda inspiring, isn't it? LOL!!!I bedded the front and rear of the action with steel filled epoxy. It worked really well, the action is solid now. The stock obviously comes with a lot of play to accomodate actions from different makers. It was really easy to do I just scored the surface of the stock where the bedding material rests as well I drilled a zillion shallow holes no more then 1/8" deep in the scored area. Cost is like $5 so can't beat that too. I'll post some pics when I get my camera back on the weekend. This tells me that a lot of the problems with SKS grouping is play in the stock. Especially with the soft chu wood.
Frozen Snake
Regular
- Location
- 49°29'28" N 119°35'19" W
Well I bedded my fiberforce stock with believe it or not Aluminum duct tape. you know the heat proof metal tape they use on ducting. I figured its metal heat resistant and it is thin enough to layer on until the stock meets the action. Now the action is tight in the stock. So after being test fired I am happy to report this method worked. seems to be holding up.
Last edited:
Well here is my solution in color.
I bedded the front of the action and the rear with steel reinforced epoxy putty. It works well and sets hard as steel making for a very solid bed and zero movement. I scored the stock surface and drilled a ton of shallow holes for the epoxy to get a real good bond. Also I made sure to remove the action before the epoxy completely set (about 10 minutes) so that I could insure it would one day be removavble and not stuck there for ever. The key I found is to add the putty in small bits and add to it as you see its needed, if you don't the epoxy can setup before you are ready to place the action in and youare pooched. Make sure that when you put the action into the stock with the still pliable epoxy that you put a lot of pressure on it so the epoxy molds nicely and doesn't set too thick that you can't get everything back together when done. I stood on it, so thats 215lbs of pressure. I sprayed the action with PAM so that it would release, not doing this could result in a new 1 piece action and stock combo.
Here is the front of the action. You can see I added quite a large amount of material and that it cups the actions quite nicely. I have a D so if your's is standard you may not be able to cup the action but the amount of material just along the sides should really tighten it all up. I sprayed the action with PAM so that it would release, not doing this could result in a new 1 piece action and stock combo.
The rear of the action too a lot of material too but you can see that there is a lot of negative space that once filled tightens things up nicely.
Now the action is completely solid, its no duct tape but it works. I haven't test fired it but even dry firing I can feel a huge difference. It cost less then $10 to do my SKS and my Mosin so I highly recomend it to anyone. Heck its so tight that you can see the machining marks in the epoxy.
I bedded the front of the action and the rear with steel reinforced epoxy putty. It works well and sets hard as steel making for a very solid bed and zero movement. I scored the stock surface and drilled a ton of shallow holes for the epoxy to get a real good bond. Also I made sure to remove the action before the epoxy completely set (about 10 minutes) so that I could insure it would one day be removavble
and not stuck there for ever. The key I found is to add the putty in small bits and add to it as you see its needed, if you don't the epoxy can setup before you are ready to place the action in and youare pooched. Make sure that when you put the action into the stock with the still pliable epoxy that you put a lot of pressure on it so the epoxy molds nicely and doesn't set too thick that you can't get everything back together when done. I stood on it, so thats 215lbs of pressure. I sprayed the action with PAM so that it would release, not doing this could result in a new 1 piece action and stock combo.
Here is the front of the action. You can see I added quite a large amount of material and that it cups the actions quite nicely. I have a D so if your's is standard you may not be able to cup the action but the amount of material just along the sides should really tighten it all up. I sprayed the action with PAM so that it would release, not doing this could result in a new 1 piece action and stock combo.
The rear of the action too a lot of material too but you can see that there is a lot of negative space that once filled tightens things up nicely.
Now the action is completely solid, its no duct tape but it works. I haven't test fired it but even dry firing I can feel a huge difference. It cost less then $10 to do my SKS and my Mosin so I highly recomend it to anyone. Heck its so tight that you can see the machining marks in the epoxy.
