action truing??

While we're on a topic of "terms" , what exactly does "Blue Printing" mean, what is the process and how does it help?
 
While we're on a topic of "terms" , what exactly does "Blue Printing" mean, what is the process and how does it help?

In my opinion it is a misused term as far as truing actions is concerned... it is better used when building engines.

But when used concerning actions it refers to truing them...

Truing refers to making the threads, action face, bolt lug recesses, bolt face and bolt lugs all square and as true as you can in relationship to the bolt race.
 
what does it mean to get the action trued, ive added everything just about to my target rifle except that and a match barrel.

What have you done to your rifle? Barrels can often be the biggest gain on accuracy, trigger if it needs it, bedding can make a huge difference. Paying someone to do a full "blueprinting" or truing job may not be worth it when you consider a Barnard or similar can be had for a little over 1000$

What are the specs on your rifle and how does it shoot now?

Cheers
 
As mentioned, blueprinting is generally a term used for engine machining. Basically it means to bring all the dimensions of a piece of metal into the dimensions called for in the blueprint for that object. Even with engines it tends to be misused, because most blueprints give you a +/- range (for machinery), so you can still not achieve what you want while remaining within "blueprinted spec". Through common usage it has come to mean machining (for a gun) a receiver and bolt to minimum spec for accuracy purposes. - dan
 
Just how far out of true are factory actions, anyway? And does it matter much, once the round is in the chamber?
 
And does it matter much, once the round is in the chamber?
I think it's all about repeatability, making everything as perfect as possible so that each time it's cycled, it's exactly the same. Talking about micrometer differences. It may only mean a tiny difference on paper, but precision shooting is a game of tiny differences.
 
Just how far out of true are factory actions, anyway? And does it matter much, once the round is in the chamber?

You can have a good chat with Mick McPhee, Bill Leeper (Leeper) and Dennis Sorenson (Guntech) on this as they have been there, done the work.

Some are dead on, some are wonky.

The first step is lug lapping where the main goal is to ensure that the lugs actually seat in the receiver. Some have low contact on one side or no contact at all.

From there, you can align all the surfaces so that the bolt face is held square with the case head and chamber/boreline. That way the case is held true during the ignition process. Otherwise, you get bent case heads - been there was really dissappointed.

The main tweak which I see on alot of precision tuned Rems is to shim the bolt at lock up so that it doesn't wobble or 'fall' when the sear is dropped.

Just dry fire a Rem and you will see the bolt move when you pull the trigger. Since the bolt is a solid unit, if the rear moves so will the front. That is not good for maximum repeatability or solid lockup.

Some will just swap in an oversized bolt body and machine to zero tolerance. Solves alot of other head aches too. BUT function in dirty conditions will suffer.

So 'tuning' a Rem 700 can have a wide range of meaning depending on what you are trying to achieve and the budget you want to invest.

Jerry
 
I had a 700VSSF in 22-250 trued by Rod at Corlanes several years ago.The total cost at the time was $140,and the groups went from 7/8" average before the truing to 5/8" average after the truing.
 
reply on my target rifle

bedding,timmney trigger (1 1/2), added some wt, better recoil pad, merc recoil reducer ( recoil was fine just really snappy was hard to do good follow thru), free floating,think thats all, 20 moa scope base , thats seperate. 308 win,used it to 1100 yards, best group is 1.2 at 600 y/3 shots.guess i ll inquire about getting it trued now, thanx for the info guys
 
I don't think Dennis "laps" the lugs he re-cuts the lugs and seats...This squares the contact surface as well as making even contact.

Here is an article about what he does during the action truing process.
http://sorensens.shawwebspace.ca/pages/

Well worth the money IMHO.
 
It always seems to be the best one can get for the least money. It used to be what one could get from a war surplus action which cost a couple of bucks and after throwing a good smith at it. These don't exist much anymore so our current "war surp", so to speak, is the 700. There are some extremely good actions available now which come with much better fit than a 700. If you compare cost with some of these vs a tunned up 700 you may be well better to skip the 700.
 
I don't think it was mentiond.
The part of truing the internal threads on the action result in the old barrel not fitting any more, too smal. So a new barrel has to be put on with threads cut to fit that now "one of a kind action".



"The main tweak which I see on alot of precision tuned Rems is to shim the bolt at lock up so that it doesn't wobble or 'fall' when the sear is dropped."

Is this something I havent seen Jerry? Or are you talking reaming out the raceway and bushing the bolt body to fit?
 
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