adjustable cheek rest and lop, what are you using?

cody c

cody c

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was thinking about building adjustable cheek rest and lop on a stock at some point, I scratched this together in the garage out of aluminum and threaded rod, I'm not a gunsmith and I dont have the fancy tools associated with it. Was bored the other day...


This was more of a prototype, just using cheap grade aluminum, I think I want to redo it using 6061-T6 or 7075 rods, as these don't seem like they have the strength needed, what I used is 3/8" but thinking maybe for the same style on a rear adjustable section I'd use 1/2" and a larger diameter of threaded rod.

For those of you who have built something similar, do you have any design input? I think this sort of design for LOP would need to be quite a bit stronger, maybe use a steel thumb wheel and a steel plate for the section that bolts to the butt pad.
 
this is one I made for my 308

ist a 1 piece split block that squize the 2 rods and 3 alen bolts to hold it in place.

before I mounted it in the stock, I placed it in a vise and slamed it couple of times with a 3# dead blow hammer and nothing moved.




DSC_0549_zpsnos7jucy.jpg
 
My experience with cheekrests is they must be solid and immobile once positioned. Secondly, most of the adjustments are done once or twice but not infinitely cranked up and down. I came up with a way to keep the same wooden stock cheek contact surface, but move it up and down.

As I reconstruct the sequence,
a) in a jig, drill two 1/2" perfectly parallel vertical holes from the top of the butt, down to within 1/2" of the thin part of the stock;
b) bandsaw off the comb and a 45-deg angle, with the edge just outside the centreline of the stock. There was some fidgeting to leave enough of the thumb area around the grip without compromising the beefiness of the comb;
c) fibreglas resin glue those two small parts together, and reinforce the inside and underside with embedded glass cloth;
d) drill two 1" deep 1" dia pockets to enlarge the two holes inside the stock;
e) use these holes for two sections of aluminum bar stock to create larger diameter collars that would be hidden eventually;
f) drill 1/2" diameter holes in these collars that aligned perfectly with the holes (that was the tricky alignment part as I remember which you could do with a centre punch from the top);
g) epoxy glue two 1/2" diameter aluminum dowels, just less than the height of stock, to the top cheek piece but leaving the prongs free moving in the rest of the butt; and
h) drill and tap for two 1/4-20 coarse thread thumb screws to tighten against the dowels, through the right side of the stock.

The trial and error part was to make about 1" of thickness from 1/8" masonite fillets with holes for the dowels and would be held in place when the thumb screws were cinched up. For most ranges I could get away with two to four fillets, and had the option for more if the firing point was especially steep. I'd record these on my plotting sheets for repeatability. Worked better out than I thought it would.
 
That looks very similar to what I made a few years ago. I don't know why you think you'd need 1/2" rods unless you're a gorilla. I made 2 of them, the second one eliminated the 2 parallel rods to permit the but pad to rotate left/right for prone/sitting positions. I then used just a threaded central rod for LOP adjust, rotate and a side grub screw to lock the rod. I'm really surprised that your pic looks almost identical to my first.
 
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