It will work with both
adjustable gas block
- Thread starter burnt_servo
- Start date
It will work with both
More info from my odd WK. If I close of the port holes completely, it still fires. So for mine, unscrewing the the set-screw all the way to the front of the gun, there is lots of volume for the gas to go, and it won't cycle. Then I screw in the set-screw towards the port holes, till she just cycles. It works great. My WK180c barely jumps when I fire it now. The set-screw is around halfway between the port-holes and front of the gas block. .223 PMC BRONZE was used for setting, as it's the weakest round I shoot through the gun.
ok, explanation of how the adjustable gas valve works. it would help if you went to the TNA website and looked at pictures.
gas block installed on barrel over gas port (hole) on barrel.
gas valve is installed in gas block from muzzle end of gun.
gas travels up gas block in passage until it intersects the scalloped portion of the valve.
gas enters the little holes in the scalloped portion of the valve.
valve is hollow; gas comes out the end of the valve and pushes piston back until gas can exit out holes in gas block.
lots of gas means gun rocks and rolls and everything gets slammed around and loose, etc.
not enough gas means action will not cycle completely.
amount of gas is controlled by the size of the little holes in the scalloped portion of the valve.
the adjustable gas valve controls the size of these holes by screwing a set screw from the muzzle end of the hollow gas valve until the holes are covered.
you can send the set screw so far down that the holes are completely covered, or partially covered. adjust as necessary.
once set you screw a second set screw down the muzzle end og the valve to lock the first one in place.
edit - some folks are still getting gas with the set screw completely blocking the opening. i think this is due to the fact that with a carbine-length gas system you get the full force of the round (ie, 52,000 psi or whatever for 556). vs mid- or rifle-length where the pressure has a chance to dissipate. this means you get gas pushing past the threads on the set screw and the seal between the gas valve and the gas glock. this will reduce as carbon builds up (or presumably if you use a lot of threadsealer).
gas block installed on barrel over gas port (hole) on barrel.
gas valve is installed in gas block from muzzle end of gun.
gas travels up gas block in passage until it intersects the scalloped portion of the valve.
gas enters the little holes in the scalloped portion of the valve.
valve is hollow; gas comes out the end of the valve and pushes piston back until gas can exit out holes in gas block.
lots of gas means gun rocks and rolls and everything gets slammed around and loose, etc.
not enough gas means action will not cycle completely.
amount of gas is controlled by the size of the little holes in the scalloped portion of the valve.
the adjustable gas valve controls the size of these holes by screwing a set screw from the muzzle end of the hollow gas valve until the holes are covered.
you can send the set screw so far down that the holes are completely covered, or partially covered. adjust as necessary.
once set you screw a second set screw down the muzzle end og the valve to lock the first one in place.
edit - some folks are still getting gas with the set screw completely blocking the opening. i think this is due to the fact that with a carbine-length gas system you get the full force of the round (ie, 52,000 psi or whatever for 556). vs mid- or rifle-length where the pressure has a chance to dissipate. this means you get gas pushing past the threads on the set screw and the seal between the gas valve and the gas glock. this will reduce as carbon builds up (or presumably if you use a lot of threadsealer).
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hey tna - have a look at how the ruger piston ar adjustable gas system works - should be easy to do on your system. instead of two set screws just one long screw with a knurled knob on the end. instead of threadsealer, the knob is held in place by a spring steel catch that is held like a washer by the valve against the block. a lot easier to field adjust - go to minute 1:45 to see what i mean about the spring steel catch:
https://youtu.be/pl1RasTOfEM
https://youtu.be/pl1RasTOfEM
