Adjustable gas blocks. What are you using

T

TheM4chef

Regular
Rating - 100%
201   0   0
Location
Southern Gulf Islands, BC
Hey guys I'm looking to get a adjustable gas block for my stag10 what have you been using?
I had a syrac adj GB a couple years ago that I had on a ar that the adjustment screw snapped inside the body. Fortunately brownells has incredible customer service.

Either way I'm looking away the slr, the sailentarms and the Odin gas blockers. Nobody anywhere seems to have the clamp on in stock just the set screw version in .750"

What are you using on your 102/stag10 books

Btw I'm using a 18.5"bbl mid length gas system. 308 Carbine buffer/ spring
 
seekins precision. Its forward facing for the adjustment screw, unlike some out there that are rear facing up against the barrel shoulder.
 
TrxR said:
Whats the best way of knowing if you need an adjustable gas block or not?
Click to expand...

Need is a strong word... I'd argue any at could benefit from one, but 'need', I don't know... Most ar's are overgassed, adjusting the gas helps them shoot even smoother.
 
If your gun shoots well with no cycling issues then you don’t really need one. If your gun is over gassed, and you’re having issues cycling you could benefit from an adjustable block by turning down the amount of gas. I have one on my precision rig so I can turn the gas down as low as it will reliably cycle the gun.
 
Slr. Set screws are much lower profile so if you want a slim rail might be the only option.
 
got an odin and a superlative arms bleed off on a couple 223 ARs. they're both front adjust and good quality but they won't accomadate extra slim handguards.
 
CNA adjustable gas block from True North Arms.

Rifle is a DDM4V7, 16", with a Maple Ridge brake, Elcan Specter 1-4. Buffer changed to Geiselle Coiled Spring and Medium Weight. SD3G trigger. DD 12.0 handguard.

I shoot a ton of 5.56 55gr, and found that follow up shots were always high & right, and sight picture difficult to maintain in rapid fire. The DDM4's are notoriously over gassed, but reliable. Since I clean my gear thoroughly every 300-400 rounds, I don't need that massive over gas assist, to slam the bolt home when its full of crud. With the brake, I wasn't getting big muzzle climb or blowback, but when that buffer would slam back, F*&^ me.....lol.

Because of the tight hand guard clearance, I couldn't run a JP, which you should, if you can. The replacement was easy. Remove hand rail, remove brake, clean barrel, remove old gas block, clean ports & bore, clean gas tube(good time to replace it), install new gas block, locktite & torque bolts or swage pins depending on which you get. Close gas port, and put a dab of paint marker on the top edge of the gas port screw to facilitate counting turns.

Go to range.
Close gas port, shoot one round. Bolt should not cycle.
Slowly open gas port 1/4 turns, shooting one round after each 1/4 turn, until bolt locks back. Note number of turns. Once you've found that setting, lock it down and shoot 20 rounds. Still good? open it 1/8-1/4 turn more, and call that set. You'll need that extra pressure as the action/bcg accumulates carbon, dirt, etc. Different ammo may require different settings. I opened mine until I could feel the buffer kissing the butt, then dialled back half way to the first bolt holdback setting.

It completely changed my DDM4. No more KATHUNK of the buffer, no more high & rights, no more stiff collarbone after 400 rounds.

Good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom