Advice for reloading 7mm Rem Mag?

saunders278

saunders278

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Hey everyone,

I'm fairly new to reloading, have had some success, but sometimes seem to be going in circles. What works one day won't the next.

I'm shooting an old Remington 700 chambered in 7mm Rem Mag. I'm pretty consistent with factory ammo so I know the problem isn't with my setup and not entirely with me.

So far I've had the best results with Nosler Partition and Nosler Accubond projectiles ranging from 140-160gr. I'm more looking at what type of powder to focus on. Any advice?

If it helps, I neck re-size only, I'm fairly careful with trim length (2.490") and overall length, and I've been using Fed 215 primers so far. Also, I haven't started sorting brass yet, I just have a whole bunch of previously fired factory casings.

Any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

-K
 
If you don't sort brass by brand "precision" reloading is pointless. I learned the same way you are now. I try to keep a batch of 20-50 of one brand in use until I can see on the outside(or feel w/fingernail) or feel on the inside with a paperclip, case head separation starting. Usually 6-8 firings with 1 full length resize in the middle. You can adjust your die to just "bump the shoulder". I'm sure someone more capable will be along to explain that part. When I toss a batch I twist the neck shut with needle nose plyers so no one continues to use them.
 
Last edited:
emerson said:
If you don't sort brass by brand "precision" reloading is pointless. I learned the same way you are now. I try to keep a batch of 20-50 of one brand in use until I can see on the outside(or feel w/fingernail) or feel on the inside with a paperclip, case head separation starting. Usually 6-8 firings with 1 full length resize in the middle. You can adjust your die to just "bump the shoulder". I'm sure someone more capable will be along to explain that part. When I toss a batch I twist the neck shut with needle nose plyers so no one continues to use them.
Click to expand...

Yeah, from what I'm hearing I need to start sorting my brass (I started the same thread under a different forum). I'm using my dad's rifle and he saved all his brass, so I had a hundred or so fire-formed casings. I figured I'd use those to get some idea of what I'm doing, then buy some good quality brass in bulk.

So it's important to full-length resize after 3-4 firings? I only have a neck die.

One more question: How important is it to use fire-formed brass? Is it really an advantage to use casings that were fired through your rifle? I always thought it was, but I've heard conflicting things from different sources.

Thanks,

-K
 
saunders278 said:
Yeah, from what I'm hearing I need to start sorting my brass (I started the same thread under a different forum). I'm using my dad's rifle and he saved all his brass, so I had a hundred or so fire-formed casings. I figured I'd use those to get some idea of what I'm doing, then buy some good quality brass in bulk.

So it's important to full-length resize after 3-4 firings? I only have a neck die.

One more question: How important is it to use fire-formed brass? Is it really an advantage to use casings that were fired through your rifle? I always thought it was, but I've heard conflicting things from different sources.

Thanks,

-K
Click to expand...

Brass from another rifle probably won't fit in yours until you full length resize. You really need to buy a reloading manual and read all the text in the front. Also, the "ABC's of Reloading" is good.
 
I shoot a Tikka t3 in 7rm. So far it likes almost any bullet from 139 ssts up to 175 nosler partitions.
The main variable in bullets is the brass. Most of the steps involve reducing the variations in the brass dimensions and volume. Starting with brass that is as similar /uniform as possible helps with accuracy.
When a cartridge fires it expands to full the available space in the chamber. This expansion slams against the chamber walls, bolt and neck. The closer the brass matches your chamber the less expansion is needed and hopefully fewer forces go places other than pushing the bullet down the barrel, improving accuracy hopefully. So fireformed, neck sized, same lot brass should be best for accuracy.

As far as loading,
I use 7828 ssc powder for all loads.
Coal is saami spec.
I full length resize because I use it primarily for hunting and full length resized cartridges are guaranteed to chamber under adverse conditions.
*** caution these are above book max****
****work up from published data****
139 gr ssts 67gr 7828
150 gr Barnes tsx 65.5 gr 7828
175 gr nosler partition 63.5 gr 7828

All these shoot MOA with FL resized brass.
 
I have a Ruger M77 mark II in a 7mm mag. I full length resize. Yes, definitely separate case brands. I use 60 grains imr 4831 and a 162 hornady interlock. Federal 215 mag primers. Getting 1/2" group at 100 yards.
 
I've used IMR4350 & 4831 mostly with 150-160 gr. bullets. Always sort brass by maker. Select a batch for range use only and a batch for hunting. I FL size brass for hunting loads.
Works for me.
 
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