Advice from those who have built ARs

FyreFighter

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So I plan to build my own AR over the next little while. I figure I will get an NEA lower and add to it as budget and time permit. I have some specific questions:

Is it worth getting a matched stripped upper/lower set? Are the finishes from different brands close enough to not look like a frankenrifle?

How much of a difference does the lower parts kit make? I mean, I've seen a big difference in price. Does it make sense to spend much more to get a more expensive lower parts kit? I am thinking of going with a triggerless parts kit and getting the best trigger i can afford.

Personally, I am more interested in accuracy than tacticool. Is it just the trigger, BCG and barrel which influence accuracy? Does it make sense to spend big on those items alone?

Any other advice that you can offer based on your experience would be helpful.

Thanks,

FF
 
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I just did the same thing you are planning to do. I bought an NEA lower and ended up going with an NEA slick side upper. They weren't a matched set but fit together very well. I would think that if you went with an upper and lower from the same mfg you should get a good fit and then the color would match as well.
 
Any mil spec upper and lower will fit and match.
That said if your going for a match rifle then getting a nice tight upper and lower is a good idea.
Have ATRS Do a barrle for you.
Bolt carrier is important as is the trigger set.
Trigger go with a a nice match trigger but not to light. Kac and GA make good ones 25o 35o $
 
Well, my experience is with a Motiuk lower and a Stag upper. The Stag seemed quite a bit less glossy than the motiuk, but a bit of loving with an oily rag has them both looking the same.

That said, I've noticed that some companies have distinctive lines that may or may not compliment eachother.

Also, if going for accuracy, I would imagine a free float rail/handguard would be in order. I got a Noveske Skinny Rail from Armtac and I quite like it.

This is the only picture of mine that I have handy, but it does show the slight difference in finish between the Motiuk lower, the Stag upper, the Noveske rail, and the ARMS sights that are quite a bit more grey.
http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2013/257/a/3/ar15_completed_copy_by_stevebot_7-d6mbe44.jpg
 
I have Armalite lower and DPMS upper, hard to see the difference in finishes.

Biggest difference is between the 'completion kit' trigger and a decent aftermarket match trigger group but expect to pay $200 or more for a decent trigger...

My 2c - there are probably others with more AR experience than me......
 
My advice. Don't build one. Buy a complete rifle. For target Stag, Armalite etc. You'll get an excellent rifle only requiring minor changes. It will be cheaper and easier to sell if you ever wanted to.
 
Forget matching uppers and lowers. Forget all that nonsense.

If you want accuracy buy an expensive 1/8" twist barrel and crown it 11-ish degrees. Then buy virtually any Geissele trigger you can get your hands on.

Upper? Not a big deal.

Lower? Not a big deal.

Trigger? Huge deal.

Then figure out which amount of Varget or RL-15 likes to push those 77/ 80 gr SMK's. I suggest 23.5 - 24.5gr.

Make sure the barrel is free floated and you are ahead of 99% of folks.

Don't believe me? Sit at the 600 yard line at Camp Perry and watch and talk to those lads.
 
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Thanks to all those who replied.

Hitzy: why avoid NEA?

Badboybeeson: ATRS seems like nice stuff, but way out of my price range. I am looking for accuracy over tacticool, yes but not NM accuracy. ~1 MOA will do.

Epoxy: I think you're right about resale, but this is going to be a hobby project. The ability to build it to spec - spending more on certain parts and less on others - appeals to me.

FF
 
I've had Spike's Tactical upper and lower receivers before and they weren't even the same colour. :p The finish was the same but the end colour was not. Don't mind that.
 
Thanks to all those who replied.

Hitzy: why avoid NEA?

Badboybeeson: ATRS seems like nice stuff, but way out of my price range. I am looking for accuracy over tacticool, yes but not NM accuracy. ~1 MOA will do.

Epoxy: I think you're right about resale, but this is going to be a hobby project. The ability to build it to spec - spending more on certain parts and less on others - appeals to me.

FF

Do a search here, sooo many issues with their QC.....like the Norinco of Canada.
 
Thanks to all those who replied.

Hitzy: why avoid NEA?

Badboybeeson: ATRS seems like nice stuff, but way out of my price range. I am looking for accuracy over tacticool, yes but not NM accuracy. ~1 MOA will do.

Epoxy: I think you're right about resale, but this is going to be a hobby project. The ability to build it to spec - spending more on certain parts and less on others - appeals to me.

FF

It will end up costing you more at the end of the day. Look over what's available and then decide if you want to build or just modify an existing product. I built two high end lowers for unique builds. I did very well. But if I didn't the cost would have been very high. Granted full ambi and all the bells/whistles. Still when you do the math even a basic lower will cost you more to put together with equivalent parts vs buying a completed one. Same for the upper.

I'm not saying don't do it. Just know what you're getting into before starting. Building might be the way to go. Plus it's a fun project.

Smak Daddy gave a good list of where to focus on for accuracy. I do agree with Hiltzy about upper/lowers. Buy an upper/lower that you like. Lots of options. Keep in mind that the price difference for basic lowers/uppers from low end to decent isn't much if staying basic. Don't go cheap here. Get something cost effective but decent. Lots of brands mentioned.

Stag, Armalite, Spike, Palmetto arms, Aero etc etc. Vltor for a bit fancier, Herra, ATR, etc... Lots of choices. For the basic milspec forged lower/upper pick the best price and the logo you like.
 
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I have two NEA's along with Daniel Defense a Norinco and a Noveske, they have not been any problem. I do believe there were some issues in the beginning but coming from the manufacturing sector that's to be expected. The fit finish and Function on the NEA's is fine and pretty good value for the price point. I ran the 7.5" PDW in a couple of courses (~2000+ rnds) no issues. I do know of a broken bolt, it was replaced no questions asked in two-three days. I've contacted them to ask questions and always got very prompt responses. I had heard early ones were sloppy between the upper and lower, all the recent ones (mine included) that I've actually played with were very tight. The trigger is not the best, it works fine but it's kinda of rough and gritty, but I replace all mine with Geissle triggers anyways.

I do agree with Epoxy, unless you have spare parts around or got some killer deals on a major component it's not the cheapest way to go, nor is it the most reliable way either. Most manufactures parts are made within spec, but you sometimes run into problems with the stack up of tolerances. If your doing it as fun project then go ahead, they are fun and pretty easy to build if you have the right tools too ( remember to factor in the cost of the tools that you might need and don't have).

The other issue is the availability of parts, you might not be able to get the ones you want and end up just settling for what you can get. Unfortunately thats the nature of the beast with living in Canada and having the US with their ITAR rules supplying the lions share of components. Sometimes the Parker work isn't worth the cost for them to bother shipping parts.
 
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Building is always enjoyable (IMO) but like many others have said there are many good already assembled AR's on the market. You get out and shoot right away and find what you don't like and make changes from there.
In my experience it holds true that a good quality 1:8 or 1:7 barrel will produce sufficient accuracy. A premium BCG would likely be next on the list. Thirdly a good trigger rework or drop in replacement will help You achieve the results your after.
There is lots of fine tuning (fitting, checking specs and lapping etc... ) that you can do that costs next to nothing but your time. You would be surprised how much affect fit of parts has on reliability and accuracy. That being said most brand "x" or "y" parts will fit and function. Some just work and fit better than others.

Fourth on the list,....Enjoy the hell out of your AR and enjoy your rewards :)
 
I went the Epoxy way bought 2, one Wyndham with D.I. with 1 in 7 ROT... And one Core 15 M4 piston with the Match SS 1 in 8 barrel, that should cover my needs for my beginning in the AR world.... For a little while... JP.
 
I keep reading about how terrible NEA's are, but I haven't seen a single complaint with them (from an actual owner since those ancient early-run model threads. Mine is a late 600 serialed complete lower with a BCM upper, and the fitment is as tight as if they were made for eachother. The colour and finish is considerably different from the BCM, though, and the trigger is your average to sub-average mil-spec single stage. However, if you're concerned with how cushy the trigger is and how well your colours match, I might suggest reviewing your priorities.

The main thing to adhere to with building your own is to keep the essential firing parts the same brand, specifically the barrel, bolt and carrier assembly, and gas system. That way the timing and dimensions will all play nice. Go with an mfg with a good reputation on their barrels and you're off to the races. BCM, DD, Armalite, and so forth. You can keep the price quite low if you don't go gucci with it, too. Had I gone with Magpul sights as opposed to KAC, I would have been sub-1100 for one hell of a rifle. Haven't tested it from a vice, but I've read about BCM replacing barrels that shot over 2 MOA (in the states though, not sure if there's any love for Canadians).

TLDR: Keeping the barrel, gas system and bolt + carrier matched is arguably better for accuracy and reliability. If you want sub-MOA with no crossed fingers, you should look at a match-grade full AR system, if you want 1-2 MOA, the brands listed above should have you in the ballpark (up to 3 MOA if you're unlucky). NEA is not the boogie man, not as far as I can speak to, and according to Rhutch above me. If you're not cool with NEA though, you can still do pretty well for price and quality in brands like DD and High Standard.

I may come off as partial to NEA; I'm not, but I do think there are some here who have a tendency towards ripping on Canadian companies. I don't feel this is good for the shooting community in Canada, as Canadian firearms companies are good for pro-shooter lobbies like the NFA, and if we let false reputations stick to them, we won't have many around or on our side if/when we need them to be.
 
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Do a search here, sooo many issues with their QC.....like the Norinco of Canada.

It really is time this common statement gets buried. That was long ago. NEA is fairly new to the AR scence and a fledgling company is going to have its issues and growing pains. They are past that now.

Build vs buy

To each their own on this one but I went with the build option. I don't just want to shoot a gun, I want to also know it inside and out and I think you learn way more about a firearm piecing it together yourself. Sure, you could buy an assembled one cheaper but not everyone has the ability to go out and drop a grand on a whim. Piece it together over time and not only do you spread the cost out, you learn how to put it together and how it functions. A great learning experience IMO.
 
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