Advice needed about my CZ Shadow

karmadoc

karmadoc

Member
EE Expired
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
South of the 49th
Hey there fellow Gunnutz,
I need some information and advice from some of you experienced Shadow owners out there.
I've had my CZ 75 SP01 Shadow 9mm for about 17 months, I've put just over 12,000 rounds through it in that time with only 2 jams, both of which were ammo issues and my fault.
In the beginning I would field strip it and clean it after EVERY trip to the range, not so much anymore, I usually clean after about 300 to 500 rounds now :redface:
I've never done more than just a basic field strip, I don't have the knowledge or confidence to do anymore.
I'm shooting local matches here on the Island and some IPSC.

My questions are:
At 12,000 rounds should I be starting to worry about the stuff below??
When should I be taking it to someone more knowledgeable to take it right apart and check it/clean it?
Which parts can I expect to wear out sooner rather than later so that I can have spares on hand to replace them?
Where do I get said parts from? CZ Custom? Or does someone know of somewhere in Canada?
Is it worth getting this crazy spare parts kit from CZ Custom? http://czcustom.com/shadowsparepartskit-2.aspx

Any and all advice is welcome! I love my Shadow and want to make sure it keeps running right :)
 
I've read people start changing their recoil springs when the casing ejects closer to them then before

Other then that. Get a spare slide stop
Get another set of recoil springs.
Other then that. You're all set.
 
get a few spare slidestops, a couple extractors, a couple recoil springs, a couple extractor springs and pins, and you're good to go. Mag springs would be a good idea too.
The problem with that kit is it contains a bunch of stuff that you'll never use like the mag bases for the 18 round mags (although I know a few people that would take those off your hands..)
 
I understand why to have spare springs etc. But why is it necessary to have spare slide stops? Do they wear that much that they need to be replaced often enough to need a couple of spares? I figured (wrongly) they would last the life of the pistol.
 
Slide stops are a consumable part on CZ's, unless you're running shock buffers (which are impossible to find here). Tough to say when they'll break; I think I broke my first one at around 15k rounds through my first Shadow, which is a good run. Others have them break sooner...
 
Thanks for all the helpful replies.:redface:
Now do you have any suggestions as to where I can get the parts you listed above?
I did notice someone else was asking this and someone suggested Dlask, CRAFM, Rouge River and Select Shooting Supplies so I guess I'll try them before I resort to ordering through CZ Custom and paying horrific shipping charges...

And UR2X3M4ME, I'll work on getting to 13,000..
 
snootworks said:
Slide stops are a consumable part on CZ's, unless you're running shock buffers (which are impossible to find here). Tough to say when they'll break; I think I broke my first one at around 15k rounds through my first Shadow, which is a good run. Others have them break sooner...
Click to expand...

Thanks. Good to know.
 
"And UR2X3M4ME, I'll work on getting to 13,000.."

Now your talking! If supersticious, 14K may be more advisable... :)

I venture to say slide stop is probably the first part to go. That one part get banged on every time after the slide travels rearward. A very smart advice provided by CeeZer to extend its life: avoid releasing the slide on an empty chamber as the hit on the slide stop is more violent. If mag removed, release it by hand by holding it firmly until closed. Closing on 20k count with original slide stop on mine.

The cleaning routine is a bit of a personal thing. I do not clean after each range trip either, more like every 500 rounds +/-. That said, I do air blast the gun for dust and burnt residues and more importantly, I wipe clean the feed ramp of the barrel to prevent miss-feed.

As far as spare parts, I found CeeZer to be extremely helpful and a real gentleman to deal with. PM him along with my kind regards.

Cheers
 
I do find that the fouling down deep inside the action builds up over time. And the usual wipe downs or brushings don't clean out that stuff. The good news is that you don't need to detail strip the gun to clean in there. There's a couple of methods for "deep cleaning" that do not require a total detail strip down.

My favorite method is to make up a batch of Ed's Red. The recipe is a mere Google search away.

The great thing with Ed's Red is that one component is ATF which is left behind after the solvents dry away. So it doesn't matter how far in behind things you get it still protects the metal. And the solvents in the mix ensure that the mixture is thin so most of it drains away before the remainder dries. So it's just about perfect for this sort of thing.

To use it like this you want to field strip the gun and remove the rubber grip scales. Then get a plastic squeeze bottle that has a pointed nozzle on it. Suck up some of the Ed's Red and then squirt it all through the action to flush the works. Use a tray to catch the drainage. Repeat a few times until the drainage is clean. Save the used solvent since once the worst of the particles settle in the storage container the mixture is still useable for half dozen or more times. Only when it's quite black is it time to dispose of it at a paint and solvent return depot.

I strongly suggest that you wear disposable blue nitrile gloves for all this work since the solvents in the mixture are going to be hard on your skin. And because of the fumes from the acetone portion you want to use it outside to avoid the fumes and because it's a fire risk.

Another method which would also work well is to mix some CLP oil up with low odor paint thinner at 1:3 mixture of oil:solvent. Flush the goop out of the gun with a can of Brake Cleaner. This stuff really does a great job of dissolving and flushing out the fouling. But it also totally strips any oil and leaves the metal completely unprotected and un-lubricated. That's where the CLP and solvent comes in. Flush the insides generously with the oil and solvent. Save the drainage as it's still just fine for re-use. Let the gun drain or blow out the excess with a LIGHT low pressure air blast. Allow to air dry for a half hour. This will leave all the surfaces protected and lubricated with a light film of oil.

I like the light film of this sort because it's going to attract less dust and hold less fouling over the long haul then a thicker coat of pure oil. You'll still want to use pure oil or light grease on the slide to frame tracks and some proper oil on the action. Just don't go crazy and use too much. It takes a lot less than you think to get the job done.
 
Rider are you talking about the slide were the firing pin is or the frame innerds etc or both.. I assume both for the cleaning critical areas.. great thread
 
Slide stops every 10-15k, extractors every 20k seem to be the norm for me. After 40k or so the accuracy seems to fade.
The Tanfoglio slide stops work, are readily available, and are much stronger. Use the Tanfoglio one for practice, and switch back to the CZ one at matches to be production legal.
 
Thank you all so much for your great info., especially UR2X3M4ME, I'll be PM'ing CeeZer, and also BCRider for the great advice on a deep clean without having to take all the little finickerty pieces apart (the gun would never function again if I did that!) I'll look into the Tanfoglio slide stops too Ron.

I checked out Select Shooting Supplies site and they have a fair few Shadow parts, do any of you know what the stock spring weight is for recoil and main/hammer springs?

I'm a new shooter so I talked myself out of shooting at Nationals but I'm gonna try my hand at Provincials in Kelowna just for the experience, maybe we'll cross paths!

Thanks again! I love the shooting community such a helpful, supportive group of people!!
 
Thanks Ceezer, I reload and though I have to chrono my latest rounds they should be sitting right around a 135 power factor. Would you happen to have some 18# main and recoil springs? Or would I be OK with what you suggested for factory ammo? Or know where I might acquire some 18#? :) I'm also in the market for a slide stop, an extractor, extractor springs and pins...
So many questions...but that's a newb for you!
Thanks again you guys!
 
silverfoxdj said:
Rider are you talking about the slide were the firing pin is or the frame innerds etc or both.. I assume both for the cleaning critical areas.. great thread
Click to expand...


Mostly I was thinking about the frame, trigger and trigger bow areas and hammer/sear action along with flushing down through the mainspring. But I have also squirted Ed's Red down the firing pin opening on the face of the slide until it drains out the head end where the hammer strikes. But this would be a great spot to follow up with a shot of low pressure compressed air to blow out the excess. Left to itself the surface tension of the small openings and close contact would not allow the FP channel to drain well.
 
I have always run 11lb recoil springs and 11lb hammer springs (the last are like Unicorns for finding them). My oldest Shadow, 5 years old as over 80,000 rounds through it, still shoots just fine. With the exception of the two Shadowmate Canadians I have my Shadows are all well over 40,000 rounds through them, no real discernible change in accuracy, but sweet sweet triggers now.

for lubing, I overlube my guns then wipe down with a cloth.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom