Advice needed on buying a Ruger 10/22

Dr.Chris

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Hi All,

After EESA's 2007 Open house I now have the bug to buy a Ruger 10/22 but I am not sure where to start.

I know I want to get stainless steel so I know I am looking at the K10/22RPF (18.5" barrel) or the K10/22T (20" barrel). I also know I like the look of the aftermarket folding stocks. Finally, I know I want to get the larger 25 round clips or 50 round drums for it.

So what I'm wondering is this: Will all the fancy aftermarket accessories fit the K10/22RPF (18.5" barrel)? Since it seems most people put aftermarket barrels on anyway should I not bother with the K10/22T (20" barrel)?

Also, where can I buy 50 round drums? And where can I get a 10/22 cheap?

Chris
 
The Ruger 10/22 is one of the most popular guns around. I got the bug a few months ago & bought one.
Parts such as mags etc etc are all over the place. There are many places and people selling add ons. It is a real cottage industry. I recently bought a couple of 30 round mags in Kentucky at a gun show & just bought on Ebay a trigger kit.
The trigger kit cost about $ 20.00 & took about an hour to install. What a difference.
Have fun.
 
if you really want to "bling" it out then just buy the cheapest one.get a scope,a couple of butler creek "hot lips" or better yet "steel lips" or even better a "tactical innovations" 25 round metal mag that can be adjusted and disassembled.to save your fingers get a butler creek mag loader.i just got one today they are plastic but work pretty good.the triiger pull is hard so get a new hammer to bring the pull rate down.the 50 rounders prolly will jam a lot so i would stay away from them.also a bolt buffer is cheap and places less stress on the receiver as well as being quieter(no CLACK!!!! when firing)
 
Chris.. I just picked up a 10/22T model (blued with the hammer spiral fluted barrel a month ago) ...Its not bad but the trigger really sucks..lots of travel and creep and well other problems also. The bolt wouldnt even cycle till i polished the op rod.

I dropped it into a richards microfit stock but it still needs to be bedded as the point of zero changes at will on this damn thing. It likes the steel hot lips mags as long as there is only 20 rounds in it.

Groups are running right now at about .25 inch for 5 shots..at 25 yards...but take it out to say 75 yards and its a hit or miss gun.

Its a fun little toy but to really make this thing shoot i would expect to sink in a grand total of about a $1000.00 bucks to really get it up and running Its really annoying when you can smack gophers at 25 yards but once you hit 75 the damn thing shoots all around them...:bangHead:
 
Any 10/22 .22lr you buy will accept aftermarket barrels and stocks. The action is the same on all the modles (the 10/22T does have a slightly differnet trigger I believe but besides that they are all the same).

Most poeople just buy the cheapest version with the blued barrel and wood stock and end up taking the barrel and stock off and replacing them. Modification is very easy with these guns as there are many parts (and I do mean many) available for them and taking the gun apart and putting together is relatively easy. There are lots of options for the trigger as well.

There are many 10/22's in the equipment exchange but they can be found at russles, wholesale sports, SIR, etc. Almsot every gun shop has them. I believe Frontier23 (sp?) was selling some on here new for about $240.

Jordan
 
I bought a 10/22 T in twist stainless and it has a laminated stock it looks great and shoots even better i got a Nikon scope 3x9x40 for it too. I would not change a thing on it. Except adding a 25 shot mag. buttler creek make it look even better any other high cap. mags dont feed well and only piss you off
 
Buy the cheapest that you can find. What you need is the receiver. Don't bother the stainess model. I am a 10-22 hater but it still a good gun that you can dress up.

Trigun
 
I plan on buying the 10/22 in synthetic stainless, as I dont expect to be swapping the barrel out. Most shooting I will be doing will be under 100 meters. Also, weight is a factor as my gf would be shooting it, and a big heavy target barrel might (and probably will be) a problem.

Also, I wouldnt want to put a fancy fluted barrel on there, as this gun would be used by a lot of newbies to the sport, and would likely get really scratched and take a beating.

So my question is this: Should I still get the stainless synthetic? Or is that going to be a waste of $50? I like how purdy the stainless looks, but cash is a bit tight right now and Id rather save 50 bucks if it made sense...
 
I plan on buying the 10/22 in synthetic stainless, as I dont expect to be swapping the barrel out. Most shooting I will be doing will be under 100 meters. Also, weight is a factor as my gf would be shooting it, and a big heavy target barrel might (and probably will be) a problem.

Also, I wouldnt want to put a fancy fluted barrel on there, as this gun would be used by a lot of newbies to the sport, and would likely get really scratched and take a beating.

So my question is this: Should I still get the stainless synthetic? Or is that going to be a waste of $50? I like how purdy the stainless looks, but cash is a bit tight right now and Id rather save 50 bucks if it made sense...

Help?
 
I'm not a fan. For the amount of money and effort you have to put into these things, it's just not worth it. They're picky about the ammo they like to feed and group. Zero drifts all over the place due to the ####ty one-screw bedding system (so expect to glass bed the thing), they don't group worth #### with the factory tube, they're anal about the mags they'll feed from, the triggers suck ass (even with upgraded internals; though they are a huge improvement), fit and finish is crap - the trigger group wobbles, and the metalwork is hit and miss. Scope mounting can be tricky as a lot of receivers are cast out-of-true (!!!). The thing is held together by loose-fitting pins. If you're lucky it'll 'break in' after a few thousand rounds, but count on having to disassemble and polish all the internals anyway.

Really, I'm beginning to think that the only good 10/22's are the ones with no ruger parts in them at all.

There's no doubt that a 10/22 CAN be made into a good gun with enough $$$, blood, sweat and tears. But, next time round, I'm going with the remmy-semi
 
There's no doubt that a 10/22 CAN be made into a good gun with enough $$$, blood, sweat and tears. But, next time round, I'm going with the remmy-semi


Serious? The 597 has a pot metal mag that falls apart and jams frequently when it doesn't. The mag release is a POS that quite often doesn't work and needs to be returned for warranty. The 597 is flat out crap. No kidding. It is the 710 of the semi-auto .22 market. It is cheaper than the 10/22 for a reason.
 
you should really look at the utility of the folding stock as well- i've got 3 of the things- and not the cheap ones either, and unless you need the space , they do take LONGER to bring into action-with some it's just a swing, but my beretta takes 3 actions- swing , pull the pad down , and lock the brace into place- with the shotgun and 22, it's just a swing into place- that folding stock is also going to DOUBLE THE WIDTH of your firearm folded- if you must have a "different " stock, go for a telescoping rather than a folder- if you can still find them-
 
Alright. I trust Nine more than I trust my mom. If he thinks I should get the $250 model instead of the $300, he's probably right. I'll pick one up in a few months, once I make room with the current milsurps I have...
 
I'm not afraid to get a stainless model wet...blued steel on the other hand is just waiting for an excuse to rust..
 
the question is how likely is it to get wet?- there are plenty of us who have "survived "on good carbon steel - and we just wipe it down good, and oil it well-
 
the question is how likely is it to get wet?- there are plenty of us who have "survived "on good carbon steel - and we just wipe it down good, and oil it well-

Ah-yup.

The receiver on both is painted aluminum. Wipe it off with oil, if you're really a keener, apply hoppes gun grease to the underside of the barrel hidden by the stock.


Woot! Post 4000. :D

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