Advice Needed on CZ 550 Magnum Bedding

[RangerPark]

I finally got my hands on a nice CZ 550 Magnum in .375 H&H. This isn't the safari variant, just the regular magnum version. This particular rifle has 3 action screws, 2 that screw into the receiver and 1 that screws into the express sight on the barrel. It also has proper crossbolts installed. This rifle effectively has 2 recoil lugs, one on the receiver and one at the bottom of the express sight. The barrel isn't free floated and pretty much contacts the stock on the entire length. It also has the laughable CZ "pillars" which are loose little tubes in the action screw holes.

So the question is: Should I bed this rifle or leave it as is?

My main concern isn't so much about accuracy but rather about preventing the stock from cracking. Some CZ 550 Magnums out there were done without crossbolts and I've read those are pretty much guaranteed to crack. Mine has proper crossbolts. I've also read that the extra recoil lug under the express sight helps further diffuse the recoil forces into the stock and also prevents cracking. It's to note that I did a Sharpie test and both lugs show contact when the rifle is assembled. The action and barrel also have absolutely zero play when inserted into the stock.

And the next question is: If you recommend bedding, how would you do it:
1- Bed the pillars and recoil lugs only.
2- Bed the pillars and entire action, not touching the lug under the express sight.
3- Bed the entire action area and barrel channel.

Here are some pictures:


This picture doesn't do the rifle justice, it's quite a nice piece.


The 3 action screws under the stock. I wish CZ didn't use slotted heads.


The recoil lugs on the action and barrel. There's a slot under the express sight where the screw and t-nut attach.


The recoil inserts shown in the stock. The receiver lug is glued in and the sight lug is loose. Note that this isn't a crack at the tenon area, it's a strand of glue that was left from the receiver lug install. Also note the contact marks under the express sight, there's definitely full barrel to stock contact there.


The sight lug actually has 2 recoil lugs that go into the stock. So I guess technically this setup has 3 recoil lugs.

 

[RangerPark]

Anyone with experience with this kind of bedding job?

 

[Big bore dinosaur]

My 458 shoot tight groups with out any bedding.
Tighten up the reciver screws , and try it out..
Might not need to be bedded, if it ant.broke......

 

[8x68]

My 458 shoot tight groups with out any bedding.
Tighten up the reciver screws , and try it out..
Might not need to be bedded, if it ant.broke......

Agreed. Nice rifle, great calibre. Shoot it first and see what you get. Shoot several groups. Once the barrel heats up see if there are any POI differences for your groups and decide what to do from there. I have one in 416 Rigby. Fired dozens of rounds. Have yet to have an issue other than a sore shoulder.

 

[RangerPark]

Thanks to both of you for the advice. I will leave it as is for now. I might do proper pillars over the winter, or maybe not I'll see.

 

[Longwalker]

I think CZ knows what they're doing. Suggest you use it as is, and keep it that way unless a problem arises.

 

[Dogleg]

My 550s got bedded from the F block(permanently buried) to the tang in Devcon, with a bit of relief behind the tang to prevent it from being a log-splitter. I also added cross-bolts because mine were earlier and only had a bolt through the wrist. The irony there is that they obviously knew they split, and where they split but didn't show much indication of knowing why. The collars were an attempt to stop people from over-tightening the action screws and starting a split that way.That goes back to the early days of Mauser.

Heavy recoiling rifles will flex the walls of the mag box cut-out like an accordian and there are only so many flex cycles the tiny little bits of remaining wood behind the lug and between the trigger and rear action screw can take before they do what wood does and the dots decide they want to be connected. The cross-bolts will either prevent the splits from starting or hold the gun together after it does. Forward barrel lugs might protect the action lug recess, but the real show is going on behind that. The British figured out the mag box Achilles heel and often had raised ovals in the stock in that area on their express rifles.

What should you do? Maybe nothing except a bit of relief behind the tang. You already have magazine cross-bolts through the split starting areas and .375s just don't kick that much. If you chose to do more; bed it from the F block to the tang with a rear pillar through the wrist. Make sure the rear action screw doesn't touch the inside of the pillar if you put one in or the wood if you don't. The screw impacting there is as bad as the tang hitting.

 

[RangerPark]

Thanks for the input Dogleg, this is a photo of the situation at the rear tang. It seems to have generous clearance already, there is also evidence of post finishing clearance work in the tang area, either done at the factory or by the previous owner. Should I install a rear pillar, would you recommend filling this gap with Devcon or leaving the gap as is?

 

[Dogleg]

Thanks for the input Dogleg, this is a photo of the situation at the rear tang. It seems to have generous clearance already, there is also evidence of post finishing clearance work in the tang area, either done at the factory or by the previous owner. Should I install a rear pillar, would you recommend filling this gap with Devcon or leaving the gap as is?

View attachment 269772

Leave the gap. Filling it would in effect convert the tang into a poorly shaped and poorly positioned recoil lug that is just begging to split the wrist. Its not unusual to bed behind the tang but if its done clearance should be built in with tape.