Advice on pellets for my Diana 34 ??

bertn

bertn

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So.. I bought a really nice Diana 34 (1000fps) and sold my Diana 35 (about 700 fps) that was shooting great but did not look as nice as the 34.
Now with my new pellet gun I am having issues with the supersonic noise because of the higher fps and am wondering what the minimum pellet weight is to avoid the supersonic crack and get good accuracy.

I like shooting good quality pellets (H&N, RWS etc.) and both the flat match (7.5 gr) and the pointed H&N pellets (8.5 gr) I tried create noise issues due to the higher velocity.
Just for punching paper and can plinking etc. I'm not hunting with it.

What is the best place to buy them at a decent price? Locally is not really an option for me because I have not seen any decent pellets in the stores here.

Kind of regretting a little bit that I sold my model 35...(the Cgn'er who bought it pm'ed me he likes shooting it a lot unlike the squirrels in his yard)
 
The jsb stuff shoots well from my 34 clones (airhawk and surge). They have a diablo in 177 at 10.34 gr. Even the Crossman stuff shoots reasonable well and have ~10gr.
 
If it’s a new gun, it’s more than likely burning off excess lube in the compression chamber. In my experience, most if not all guns rated by the manufacturer at 1000fps, are usually more like 8-900fps with average weight pellets. I’m not just basing this off of a couple of rifles either. The burning of these excess lubes can cause deiseling which if heavy enough can make quite a bang that gives many the impression of supersonic crack. Not to say it doesn’t increase velocity, but not in any kind of consistent or accurate way. If you keep shooting the 8.5ish grain pellets it should settle in and eventually stop burning off.

One of the best investments one can make is a chronograph.
 
It is not a new gun, bought it used and is stamped 04 88 but looks like a brand new gun.
I gave it a very small amount of silicone oil.

I also just bought a Caldwell chronograph but it does not really work inside (needs the ir light kit but that is another story..)
and because of the noise I don't want to use it in the backyard since I live in town.
Next time I go to the range I might bring it but it likely won't work there either because of the light conditions.
 
Was it loud before you applied silicone ? If it's doing it after silicone, stand it on butt end for a day, then barrel end for a day. That allows the accelerants to dissipate and leave the lube behind. You're getting detonations. It's not the pellet weight. Don't ask how I know. I quit using that stuff. That gun would probably benefit from a teardown (use a spring compressor ! ) and seal/spring inspection. Put an extremely light film of moly pasted in there before reassembly. You don't want any on the face of the seal. By adding drops of silicone down the chamber hole and shooting, you're likely detonating lube.
 
Kodiaks will slow the speed down and hit harder on game. A tuning kit makes a world of difference the the 34 ...polish inside compression tube first and re-crown......i have one in .22 death to grouse/crows
 
In my 34's and Magnum 350 I've found Crossman Premier hollow points to be about as accurate as you can get, and still be reasonable on price.
 
Thanks guys for all the input.
Got some more pellets in the 8+grain range and finally took it out to the range last night and after only a few pellets it settled down so it must have been dieseling (some light smoke was coming out of the barrel at the first two shots).
So, problem solved :)
 
The RWS domes. They benefit greatly from a tuning ie re-crowning,internal compression tube polishing along with the cocking piece.My 34/.22 shot patterns prior to all the above /also a Maccarii spring and guide.Tamed things right down.
 
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