Advice on using brass and primers for beginner .308 win

Brianma65 said:
View attachment 258836
No,
If my Hornady, nosler, manual has five or six loads listed for my bullit, I skip the first( min) and last( max)
I then load the other recommended loads, find the best one and then work around that, using .3 g increments.

I found if you use their recommended loads, you’ll usually find one that works, and for me, it’s usually in the middle.

For instance, in this pic , I skip the first and last ,and use the rest.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Very helpful
 
DonnieM said:
I only used Remington brass in my 220 swift years ago. I didn't find much difference between Win and Remington. I think I got more reloads out of Win though, and got neck splits on Remington more frequently. There was a noticeable difference in brass thickness at the case mouth (neck), I could and still can, differentiate between Win and Remington brass by looking at the case mouth. I've only shot Win or Lapua since in different calibers.
Click to expand...

Because Winchester is readily available I may start with Remington and use very minimal reloads then switch to win if it’s better. Besides obvious signs of neck splitting are there any other issues to watch for with it?
 
You can keep an eye out for case head separation, before it happens, you’ll see a brighter coloured ring , around the case near bottom. Google it, it’s caused from overworking the brass.
Hard extraction, extraction marks on the brass, from hot loads.

But if you follow the instructions, you should be fine.

Do you have a trickler?
If not, it’s a must have, especially for the stick powder.
 
All manufactures brass is a bit different, not just in hardness, but often in case capacity. This affects pressures. If you are going for accuracy, pick a case, and stick with it. I like Winchester brass myself.
Unless you get right out there on the hairy edge of max, the difference in case pressure is not going to be a safety issue in my experience. But, pressures should be as close as possible shot to shot for best accuracy.
There are many articles on external ballistics out there, but internal ballistics also play a role, hence two powders that give similar pressures may not give similar group sizes. Do your research, the reading pile is deep, and fascinating.
 
308 brass is plentiful, I like Nosler, RP .

If you need some, just PM me and I can send you 100 pcs or so.
You just cover the shipping.
 
Brianma65 said:
You can keep an eye out for case head separation, before it happens, you’ll see a brighter coloured ring , around the case near bottom. Google it, it’s caused from overworking the brass.
Hard extraction, extraction marks on the brass, from hot loads.

But if you follow the instructions, you should be fine.

Do you have a trickler?
If not, it’s a must have, especially for the stick powder.
Click to expand...
Yessir, got a trickler
 
John Y Cannuck said:
All manufactures brass is a bit different, not just in hardness, but often in case capacity. This affects pressures. If you are going for accuracy, pick a case, and stick with it. I like Winchester brass myself.
Unless you get right out there on the hairy edge of max, the difference in case pressure is not going to be a safety issue in my experience. But, pressures should be as close as possible shot to shot for best accuracy.
There are many articles on external ballistics out there, but internal ballistics also play a role, hence two powders that give similar pressures may not give similar group sizes. Do your research, the reading pile is deep, and fascinating.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I definitely don’t plan on maxing anything out, for my needs anyway. Will be shooting from a straight pull Blaser r8 so high pressure loads are a little freaky. I do trust the Blaser platform, but that’s a can of worms I’ll open up in another forum someday haha. But I want to be extra safe while in the beginning, regardless.
 
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