Advice - scope and mounts for Sako Kodiak 375 H&H

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witts

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I have had this rifle for a while and would like to start using it but need a scope for my old eyes. I would like to try it for moose, black bear and possibly dangerous game if I get the chance. I have read that because of the long action the scope should be either straight tube or long enough in the mounting area. I would assume that eye relief should be generous. The only longer eye relief I have found is Swarovski Z6i 1-6x24 EE but I don't like the price. I know I don't need this much rifle for the animals mentioned but I have been told the same for my 45/70 and it has harvested many deer. Thanks in advance for any advice you give.
Witts.
 
I just ordered a Leupold VX-6 in 1-6x24 (30 mm) scope for a CZ550 in 9.3x62. Straight tube and comes in duplex or german #4 reticles. 3.8" eye relief.
Paid $1,135 for it.



VDD Group Canada
 
Not much wrong with Sako mounts ... I'd pick a Leupold VXII in 1-4. The VX-6 mentioned above is a beauty of a scope ... but a little spendy & more optical quality than I can use !
 
I have a Leupold VXIII 1.5-5 on my .375, it seem about perfect for the same game and situations you describe. The eye relief works well with the Sako . I like the old stye windage adjustable Sako ringmounts rather than the optilocks, they are much cheaper, fit and function properly, and are quick detachable and return to zero. If you can find medium or low ones that would be ideal.
 
Nikon Monarch 1-4 is excellent, 4 inches of eye relief. I've got one on a Savage LWH in 6.5-284 Norma and I've shot several moose and elk with it. Once you hunt with a small light rifle and scope and realize you very rarely need above 4x zoom, it's like you have a paradigm shift and hunting is new again. In .375 the Monarch should hold together no problem as it's advertised for dangerous game and the one I have on my .338 Lapua works perfect after 400+ rounds.
 
One thing about scopes is that one not need a high power scope for most hunting situations. I would suggest something low power - with sufficient eye relief. Much like what many have suggested thus far. Quality would be beneficial on a 375 H&H which has enough recoil to stress the internals of any scope mounted on a 375 H&H.
 
I have leupold QR(post/cam) set up on my Kodiak. I run a VXR 2-7x33 scope. My front ring is an extension ring to fit the scope on properly. Works fairly well for me.

 
While in Tanzania I had the opportunity to hunt with a M-70 in .375 which was topped with a Leupold 2.5-8X with extension rings to keep the ocular from becoming stuck in one's forehead. This was a nice setup, and the scope allowed the hunter to see well enough to fully appreciate the versatility of the .375 cartridge. If I had a SAKO .375, I think I would get a base that converted the tapered dovetailed receiver to a Picatinny rail, since this provides the greatest latitude for mounting variable power scopes which typically have long ocular housings. Such conversions can be had from Roedale Precision (Germany), Valdada, and US Optics, so it won't be a cheap option, but it will be a beneficial one.

From the Roedale Precision webpage:

Picatinny rail for Sako


This Picatinny rail for Sako systems fits on the integrated Sako dovetail Optilock. It allows the use of Picatinny-type ZFR mounts, instead of the not always reliable Optilock mounts. It allows you to have a Picatinny mounting system on your Sako. Suits hunting type scopes with limited adjustment range.

Available in two different versions:


- Short: Fits Sako S491, M591, L461, L579 M74 (.222-308) 75 I, 75 III, 85XS, 85S actions upto .308win

- Long: Fits Sako L691, L691 Mag, L61 Finnbear, L579, M74 (.308-.375) 75 III, 75SM, 75 IV, 75 V. Sako 85SM, 85M, 85L, 85XL - MA05S, MA05SM, TRG-S
 
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I would like to thank everyone for the advice. Has anyone had a problem with ejecting brass hitting the scope with low mounts?
 
The Leupold 1.75-6x is a dandy on a 375. The new models all sport extended tubes that allow some latitude when mounting. I have one on a 375 H&H M70 and I don't need any extension bases...straight Talley QD's.
 
I have sets of Recknagel / ERA quick detach, 100% return to zero if you're looking for something German precise. I bought a bunch when I found a good deal, as when buying them for a double rifle I was quoted something like $1600 for the rings alone from a major dealer in Canada. Found a better deal and bought 2 of each with bases, 1" and 30mm, thinking I'd fit them to all my rifles. Haven't got to it needless to say.
 
witts said:
I would like to thank everyone for the advice. Has anyone had a problem with ejecting brass hitting the scope with low mounts?
Click to expand...

I have, but not in .375. I had to turn the scope 90 degrees so brass wouldn't hit the windage adjustment cap. This is on a model 85 in 30-06 with leupold ringmounts and a 1 inch tube.
 
The reach of the 375 H&H really calls for a touch more power. I'm a huge (and vocal) fan of the Leupold 1.5-5x and I would never tell someone not to buy one but if you want a little more power then go with the Leupold 2.5-8x. Still nice and trim (which many scopes nowadays are NOT) but will be bright enough to use on dangerous game while still working for longer shots in open country or on smaller game.
 
Well I purchased a VX3 1-6X24 fire dot circle and it looks great on the rifle. I was thinking of going larger but with the long action the straight tube eliminates any ring location problems. I am now asking for opinions about rings. I have Sako optilock one price rings on my Finnlight and they work very well ( nice and low). They would the right height for Kodiak also but I can see the front sight at low power. It disappears at any setting above 3 but I plan to use the 1-1 setting for close stuff. To get the scope high enough to clear the sights I think would screw the cheek fit. I could remove the sights. Any opinions on this? Thanks in advance.
 
witts said:
Well I purchased a VX3 1-6X24 fire dot circle and it looks great on the rifle. I was thinking of going larger but with the long action the straight tube eliminates any ring location problems. I am now asking for opinions about rings. I have Sako optilock one price rings on my Finnlight and they work very well ( nice and low). They would the right height for Kodiak also but I can see the front sight at low power. It disappears at any setting above 3 but I plan to use the 1-1 setting for close stuff. To get the scope high enough to clear the sights I think would screw the cheek fit. I could remove the sights. Any opinions on this? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Don't worry about the sight. I can see the front sight on my 416 Rigby when my 1.5-5x Leupold is turned down from 1.5x to about 3x. The two most important things about the rings is that 1) They allow proper function of the bolt without interference from your hand, and 2) that you have a solid cheek-weld and sight picture. The last thing you want is to have your face weaving around in space when you touch off a business load in a large caliber rifle (or even a medium). Nothing quite like them getting an unimpeded run at you before giving your cheekbone a good solid whack (or worse, running the scope into your eyebrow). The H&H may be a pussy cay as far as fighting rifles go, but it will still give you a wicked smack if you don't respect it.
 
Thanks for the info. The low height is perfect for a nice tight cheek-weld and comes to my eye very naturally. Glad to hear that the sight showing in the scope is no big deal. I will try to get my son to help me post some pics when I get this done.
 
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