ag42b

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Hi

A grossly overpriced ag42b seems to have followed me home from the gun show. From prior posts here, I could have bought three of these in Canada for what this one cost.

The previous owner bought it 20 years ago and left it on the shelf (thankfully he oiled it first). He wasn't much help as far as information on the performance of this rifle since he'd never actually fired it.

I intend to shoot the rifle, and from what I've seen that's done a lot more up north than down here. So far I've pretty well dug into how to tear the thing down and put it back together. Past threads have gone into the tear down and operation stuff pretty well. Last check on my thumbs showed both of them to still be in good shape. :D

My dilemma is ammo. There seem to be a lot of comments about the rifle tearing rims on military ammo. I'm not real sure I want to run the rifle that way. I have also seen comments that oiling the rounds reduces the rim tearing. I have a suspicion that oil also increases the back pressure against the bolt.

Surplus ammo of the 139 grain variety is indeed available this week from several suppliers for about 38 cents a round. That's not exactly cheap *if* I am correct and the rifle really doesn't like the stuff. Given that it goes out of stock fast, if I'm going to run use it, buying a lot is the only real alternative.

Many have commented that reloading is the way to go for this rifle. That's fine if it's the only choice. I'd like to stick with 139 grain bullets if possible. Apparently "fast" powders are what's indicated for this gas system. Since I can pick up any powder out there, what's the best? Is IMR4895 fast enough, or is something faster indicated. I can find loads for stuff as fast as 2400.

My objective here is to punch holes in paper out to 300 yards, with most shooting at 100 yards. If I'm going to reload, I'd prefer to come up with a load that fits the rifle and doesn't rip the brass apart as it extracts. With iron sights, I will not be able to tell the difference between a load that groups 0.5 MOA and one that's at 0.25. Anything "sub 1 moa is fine".

So, can a load be developed that gets the rifle running more or less like an M1 or an FAL, or should I just grab the surplus ammo while it's available? If I'm developing a load, is 4895 reasonable, or should I start even faster?

Next up - I *assume* that the barrel has a 1 in 7.5" twist, just like the Mausers. I haven't found that confirmed anywhere I've looked. If it's something slower that might influence my bullet choices.

Final question - Is there somewhere out there that shows the production numbers on this rife by year?

Thanks !!

Bob
 
AG42B-Reloading

From the Sierra manual the accuracy load using IMR-4895 and 140gr matchking will work, muzzle velocity of 2400.
Brass has to be full length re sized and checked to make sure they easily slide into the chamber. New brass will only last 3 to 4 firings, check after each firing ,the wall thickness near the base for excessive stretching if a ring has formed discard it. Use primers with a hard cup.
If a loaded round jams part way into the chamber, NEVER ATTEMPT TO FORCE IT INTO THE CHAMBER USING THE ACTION. This can result in a slam fire causing injury to yourself and/or damage to the rifle. The round has to be removed from the muzzle end by a gunsmith or yourself if you know what your doing.
They're great guns, a lot of fun, but you must understand how the action works. Also all rounds should be chambered by allowing the bolt to pick up the round from the magazine this expends some of the energy of the bolt.
 
Yep, they're very rough on brass. I can't remember exactly how to, but all the ag's I've experienced beat the snot out of the brass on the extraction and then tossed it all over the place. Probably something to do with an untuned gas valve, but still. If you're close enough your enemy would be hit by both the bullet and the brass.
 
If you search around the net, you can find plans and info for modifying the gas valve to make it adjustable.
 
Hi

I've been down the "small base dies" route with FAL's and M1's so I do indeed understand the need for full length sizing of the brass. Having things hang up as they feed really makes a mess in a hurry. I used to have a Desert Eagle that "spit" at you with each shot, so the good eye protection is on the list as well. Thanks to those who brought both points up, either one could be a real problem.

Given how much these "wonderful" rifles now cost, I don't think I'm going to do any non-reversible mods to this one. Unless I go the fast boat across Lake Ontario route I don't think we will be seeing any cheap ones down here.

I'm still interested in the idea of cutting back on the reloads a bit to "improve" the gas operation. If I loose a few hundred fps that's probably not going to ruin my day at 100 yards. I'm not so much looking for an exact load as much as a "been there, done that, it works". By the time the range dries out and I can do some reloading, the surplus ammo probably will be gone.

Thanks again for all the good advice !!!

Bob
 
I dont know how much you paid for yours, but I saw one in very good condition go for around $1000 in the states. I think I sold mine up here for $300.
Like joe said, look into an adjustable gas system. Lots of folks in the staes have done this successfully without destroyingthe ook of the gun.

If you have trouble with extractors (the first and only thing to break on those guns) I have a few. As well as firingpins and springs. You might have to look into the import requirements though
 
Ag42b

Excellent rifle they are alot of fun and very accurate. Never have had a single problem with mine. Use Europian designed brass with the proper rim thickness it lasts alot longer. My favorite food for mine is the cheap igmann ammo 140gr sp. $12 to $13 dollars a box with proper rim thickness. Keep it clean.:)
 
Hi

This one is in quite good shape for a milsurp. It ran me $850 "out the door". I remember way back three years ago when that would have been simply crazy. Now it's what they sell for down here.

Interesting comment about the rim thickness on the brass. I hadn't realized that the locals made it different here. I may have to re-think my brass order.

I'm hoping I don't break anything on this beast. I've seen some pictures of ones that self disassembled due to one problem or another. It is good to know there are parts out there.

How many of these did the Swede's make?

Bob
 
Never found it to tear case rims. But if you don't have that rubber bumper on the bolt carrier, it will do nasty things to the brass on extraction. (that bumper is sometimes missing)but GunParts inc has them, or did have them, it's where I got mine.
Be sure to pack a lunch when you go out to pick up the fired cases.
To hit the centre of the target at 100 yds, set the elevation to 1, to hit the centre of the target at 300 yds, set elevation to 3. It's that accurate.
 
pa guns said:
Hi


I'm hoping I don't break anything on this beast. I've seen some pictures of ones that self disassembled due to one problem or another. It is good to know there are parts out there.

How many of these did the Swede's make?

Bob
Click to expand...


Most of the dissasembly was probably due to running HOT rounds

This site has a lot of good info

http://www.geocities.com/therealsailorx42/

he used to be a reg here
 
Hi

I have the rubber bumper on my rifle. As far as I can tell the only thing I don't have is a spare parts kit. I put one of them on order with Gun Parts over the weekend.

If the stories about ripping case heads off are "less than totally accurate", then the surplus ammo is looking better and better.

Bob
 
I shot a lot of Prvi partisan and Norma ammo through my guns and never had a case head ripped off. The ejector does put a decent dent in the base, and the mouth of the case is typically dented, but that can be bent outward before putting it through a resizing die. I however only reused the brass for my bolt gun after firing through the semi auto. I was reluctant to reload for the semi. The only ammo I ever had a problem with was some old swedish military surplus armour piercing ammo that had chrome bullets. I fired Norma hunting ammo, 139 grain ballistic tip, prvi partisan 140's in both fmj and soft point, Norma match grade fmj bt, and Imperial 160's successfully from the Ljungman.
 
Hi

If the brass is unlikely to be reloadable more than once that makes the economics of reloading a bit questionable.

Is anybody oiling their rounds before using them? I've seen that mentioned as a "standard practice". My concern is that with a bolt gun that's a good way to blow the thing up ....

Bob
 
Never oiled the ammunition. Can't say I have any knowledge as to what was recommended, but I've never heard of that practice on any rifle, ever, for what that's worth.

I can't tell you that its only reloadable once either, its just that I did that as I preferred factory ammo thru the semi auto (less risk in my opinion), and had lots of use for the brass afterwards in my bolt gun with hunting bullets.
 
I've had 4 of these brass-munching monsters - as several have stated, they hammer the rim with the extractor when chambering, try to rip it off when extracting and then the ejector gives a mighty wack to kick em' out.. Don't expect to reuse many of the empties!
 
I have a feeling some brass is harder than others, as it leaves less of an imprint. The Prvi partisan cartridges are all annealed necks. Makes me think the brass is harder if they needed to anneal the necks.
 
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