Somebody needs to give one a try and see how it holds up. The only thing I can see that may be a problem is it may not meet the same tolerences as the real deal leading to not-so-straight mounting of aiming devices and what not.
Airsoft M14 rail mount (KAC copy)
- Thread starter Sniper1
- Start date
So I got that King Arms M14 rail ... 90$ from Jackyiscxd and installed it on my Norc the other day. He asked me to write a review and range report, but consider this as a progress report. The formal review with pictures will come later on, once I address the issues.
The rail handguard is nicely machined and finished and also lighter than what i imagined. Still have to check if the rails match the mil-1913 specs with my TangoDown VG.
I had the same problems has bob and hpf75 regarding the side attachment screw that fits loosely in the receiver hole. I'll go at a hardware store try to find a better screw. Anybody knows the specs for that receiver scope mount hole ?
Other problems are:
- the stripper clip guide mount which also fits loosely in the dovetail and only holds there by pressure of a small hex screw. It doesn't align with the hole of the normal roll pin.
- The top handguard screw hides the lower half of the front sight when shouldering the rifle. This screw will have to be filed down.
- Like Bob noticed, The op-rod just slightly touches the rail when it cycles, so filing of the right lower side of the rail is needed.
Will keep you all updated when all is done.
The rail handguard is nicely machined and finished and also lighter than what i imagined. Still have to check if the rails match the mil-1913 specs with my TangoDown VG.
I had the same problems has bob and hpf75 regarding the side attachment screw that fits loosely in the receiver hole. I'll go at a hardware store try to find a better screw. Anybody knows the specs for that receiver scope mount hole ?
Other problems are:
- the stripper clip guide mount which also fits loosely in the dovetail and only holds there by pressure of a small hex screw. It doesn't align with the hole of the normal roll pin.
- The top handguard screw hides the lower half of the front sight when shouldering the rifle. This screw will have to be filed down.
- Like Bob noticed, The op-rod just slightly touches the rail when it cycles, so filing of the right lower side of the rail is needed.
Will keep you all updated when all is done.
Here's an update with pics of the King Arms M14 RAS.
First off, i found from the Sadlak website that the receiver scope mount hole (left side) is threaded #12-32 UNEF-2B with hole ID of .182/.186
What that means is that it's a wierdo screw... can't find it at local hardware stores... will try tomorrow at a car garage shop.
I also emailed KAC to see if they can send me a replacement screw (i also asked for the rear scope base that attaches to the clip guide... you'll see why in the pics below...). Waiting their response.
Inspection of rails with my poor man's mil-1913 guage (TangoDown VG) revealed that they are a tiny bit smaller than spec... but not by much.
Overall, it doesn't look crappy, as some might think... I've never seen the real thing in person, but this rail is quite nicely done.
Bizarre thing is this spelling error: ArmaNent maybe it was intentional ? anyway, doesn't matter to me 'cause i'll eventually paint the whole thing with Krylon camo.
Top part is gradually cut-out, and that is supposed to allow use of iron sights...
Unfortunately... the top screw is too high; it hides the lower half of the front sight... filing of this screw will be mandatory.
Lower view, showing how the rails stay parallel with the barrel.
There are minor machining marks on the inside. None seen on the outside.
Other view from the inside, showing where the op-rod contacts the rail when cycling... this is another part that needs some filing.
Here's the bits & pieces (it was supplied with two more washers, absent from pic)
Here's the bad side locking screw. It was partially stripped when I got it, but even without the stripping, it would still be loose in the receiver hole... it's probably not the right dimension/threading. Remember this rail is supposed to go on airsoft M14 toys...
Here's a potential problem; the rear mount. It is "secured" by a small hex screw which contacts the receiver, but doesn't enter in the roll pin hole. The dovetail is much too small, there's gaps everywhere... i wonder how it will sustain the recoil Need to live-fire with scope mounted to judge this. It's made of aluminium, very light... but i would have preferred steel.
Also, there's an bigger hex screw on the bolt side that serves no function that i can think of
This is still a work in progress...
The final verdict and review will come after i find a good side screw and after firing a few boxes of ammo.
P.S.: I don't see any problem putting a cheap chinese replica accessory on a cheap chinese replica rifle
First off, i found from the Sadlak website that the receiver scope mount hole (left side) is threaded #12-32 UNEF-2B with hole ID of .182/.186
What that means is that it's a wierdo screw... can't find it at local hardware stores... will try tomorrow at a car garage shop.
I also emailed KAC to see if they can send me a replacement screw (i also asked for the rear scope base that attaches to the clip guide... you'll see why in the pics below...). Waiting their response.
Inspection of rails with my poor man's mil-1913 guage (TangoDown VG) revealed that they are a tiny bit smaller than spec... but not by much.
Overall, it doesn't look crappy, as some might think... I've never seen the real thing in person, but this rail is quite nicely done.
Bizarre thing is this spelling error: ArmaNent
maybe it was intentional ? anyway, doesn't matter to me 'cause i'll eventually paint the whole thing with Krylon camo.
Top part is gradually cut-out, and that is supposed to allow use of iron sights...
Unfortunately... the top screw is too high; it hides the lower half of the front sight... filing of this screw will be mandatory.
Lower view, showing how the rails stay parallel with the barrel.
There are minor machining marks on the inside. None seen on the outside.
Other view from the inside, showing where the op-rod contacts the rail when cycling... this is another part that needs some filing.
Here's the bits & pieces (it was supplied with two more washers, absent from pic)
Here's the bad side locking screw. It was partially stripped when I got it, but even without the stripping, it would still be loose in the receiver hole... it's probably not the right dimension/threading. Remember this rail is supposed to go on airsoft M14 toys...
Here's a potential problem; the rear mount. It is "secured" by a small hex screw which contacts the receiver, but doesn't enter in the roll pin hole. The dovetail is much too small, there's gaps everywhere... i wonder how it will sustain the recoil
Need to live-fire with scope mounted to judge this. It's made of aluminium, very light... but i would have preferred steel.Also, there's an bigger hex screw on the bolt side that serves no function that i can think of
This is still a work in progress...
The final verdict and review will come after i find a good side screw and after firing a few boxes of ammo.
P.S.: I don't see any problem putting a cheap chinese replica accessory on a cheap chinese replica rifle
majormarine
CGN Regular
- Location
- Lower Mainland, BC
king arms m14 mounts are nicely machined but they are made of soft aluminium. a few REAL rounds would destroy or deform the mount itself in one way of the other.
I never noticed the problem with the rear sight mount as I never installed it. The other thing was the clip that slides into the barrel was not the snuggest fit. Will try to drill and thread the clip on the original guard this winter but right now having fun with the whole set up. My solution so far to the big hole small screw problem was to cut a .22 case to length. the screw just fits into it and it seems to fill the remainder of space. Will watch to see your fix and let you know if this fix doesn't work. Good price on your rail.....Bob
- Location
- South Cariboo, BC
Thanks for all the pics. From the first mention of the bad fit of the replacement stripper clip guide, I thought a good solution would be to build it up a bit with JB weld and dremel to fit. A bit of a pain, but would probably solve the problem.
I've tried to find a replacement bolt for the receiver hole too with no luck. I live in a remote area with not much shopping selection so I just gave up. If you find one that works maybe you could pick up an extra for me and I'll emt the money to cover it and shipping to me?
Try a pm to hungry here on the board, he'd likely know where they can be found. Keep us posted on your progress, very interesting to watch.
I've tried to find a replacement bolt for the receiver hole too with no luck. I live in a remote area with not much shopping selection so I just gave up. If you find one that works maybe you could pick up an extra for me and I'll emt the money to cover it and shipping to me?
Try a pm to hungry here on the board, he'd likely know where they can be found. Keep us posted on your progress, very interesting to watch.
Here's an update:
Someone told me the ARMS#18 screw is very short, and therefore won't fit with this King Arms RAS.
So i emailed KAC (yes the real Knight's Co....), asking them how much for a replacement screw, not hoping much....
...you just won't believe it: they're sending me a true M14 RAS side screw ... FREE along with a catalog ... 
So who said KAC stuff is expensive and hard to find ? ha ha
Now for the stripper clip guide mount, i have SAGE on order
SAGE parts are very difficult to obtain.
You need a friend in the US to order one and then send it to you.
Althought I asked KAC 2-3 times for that piece, they just didn't mention anything about it (they probably don't have much to spare for canadian civilians...).
Anyway, I should have a solid setup in a few weeks.
Also, I fired a few rounds with the rifle (nothing on the RAS and w/o the side locking screw either) to zero my new usgi rear sight.
The good news, is that when the rear aperture is set to the "250m battlesight zero", the top screw of the RAS is no more in the way of the front sight.
All in all, like you can see, this King Arms RAS copy is not a "Plug & Play" item.
After some work and a couple "real steel" american parts, it can be made functional.
Bottom line, if you're willing to put some time & effort, this is a very nice rail for under 200$ cdn.
Someone told me the ARMS#18 screw is very short, and therefore won't fit with this King Arms RAS.
So i emailed KAC (yes the real Knight's Co....), asking them how much for a replacement screw, not hoping much....
...you just won't believe it: they're sending me a true M14 RAS side screw ... FREE
along with a catalog ... So who said KAC stuff is expensive and hard to find ? ha ha
Now for the stripper clip guide mount, i have SAGE on order
SAGE parts are very difficult to obtain.
You need a friend in the US to order one and then send it to you.
Althought I asked KAC 2-3 times for that piece, they just didn't mention anything about it (they probably don't have much to spare for canadian civilians...).
Anyway, I should have a solid setup in a few weeks.
Also, I fired a few rounds with the rifle (nothing on the RAS and w/o the side locking screw either) to zero my new usgi rear sight.
The good news, is that when the rear aperture is set to the "250m battlesight zero", the top screw of the RAS is no more in the way of the front sight.
All in all, like you can see, this King Arms RAS copy is not a "Plug & Play" item.
After some work and a couple "real steel" american parts, it can be made functional.
Bottom line, if you're willing to put some time & effort, this is a very nice rail for under 200$ cdn.
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hfp75 said:
yes! the real KAC side screw fits right. The hole in the Norc receiver therefore must be to proper milspecs.
However, my problem now is that the SAGE clip guide scope base rail is too low compared to the King Arms rail. Either I try to find a KAC, or I find some way to fix down the King Arms copy... or i abandon the whole setup and go for the new Marstar EBR stock
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My concern is Re: the mounting screw and that it is narrower than the hole in the rail - creating play.
I found that the diameter of the mounting screw in the 'kit' is smaller than the diameter of the mounting hole in the rial. So once installed there is front to back play. Does the 'real' KAC replacement mounting screw have a shoulder to compensate for the extra space in the mounting hole on the rail? If 'yes' then it will eliminate the front to back play.
Pics of a screw with a shoulder.... the shoulder is needed to eliminate the front to back play once mounted. Otherwise I am considering JB Weld.
Anyone have a pic of the 'REAL' KAC mounting screw for the M1A/M14 RAIL?
I found that the diameter of the mounting screw in the 'kit' is smaller than the diameter of the mounting hole in the rial. So once installed there is front to back play. Does the 'real' KAC replacement mounting screw have a shoulder to compensate for the extra space in the mounting hole on the rail? If 'yes' then it will eliminate the front to back play.
Pics of a screw with a shoulder.... the shoulder is needed to eliminate the front to back play once mounted. Otherwise I am considering JB Weld.
Anyone have a pic of the 'REAL' KAC mounting screw for the M1A/M14 RAIL?
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Just resurrecting this post.
For those of you who have had these rails for a couple years now, how do you find they are holding up? Are they warping with use, heat from the barrel etc? Is it something you would buy again? And what make are you using. I know there are a few different ones floating around.
It looks like a versatile platform if you want the option of having a "regular" versus a "scout" scope setup, or go back and forth between the two.
I realize it's a airsoft knockoff of KAC's excellent (albeit expensive and hard to source) rail. But for something that's going to see mainly range or some bush use, is it a good option?
Thanks for your answers.
For those of you who have had these rails for a couple years now, how do you find they are holding up? Are they warping with use, heat from the barrel etc? Is it something you would buy again? And what make are you using. I know there are a few different ones floating around.
It looks like a versatile platform if you want the option of having a "regular" versus a "scout" scope setup, or go back and forth between the two.
I realize it's a airsoft knockoff of KAC's excellent (albeit expensive and hard to source) rail. But for something that's going to see mainly range or some bush use, is it a good option?
Thanks for your answers.
I thought the KAC mount was neat but it using the receivers side scope mount area was kind of a bummer for me.
If I do get a rail system I think I'm going to go with a Amega style which clamps onto the barrel itself. so you can still install a normal scope mount if you'd like.
Dimitri
If I do get a rail system I think I'm going to go with a Amega style which clamps onto the barrel itself. so you can still install a normal scope mount if you'd like.
Dimitri
I never got mine to fit right and ditched it. Since it never fit right, it would move with shooting, and where it impacted with the receiver it quickly dented and I was not impressed.
If you could have gotten it not to move it might have worked - a proper bolt for the side of the receiver.
The other thing that I did not like is that really, there is one mounting point - and that is the bolt that does not fit. Hence why that bolt is SOOOO important. There are 2 other contact points that stabalize it but they are not secure - first one just rests under the front lip like the handgaurd (potential to move all over), and the second is where it rests/contacts the top of the barrel - potential to rotate.....
It is a large rail and should be more securely mounted. I thought it was poorly designed - weather the real mccoy or an imposter.... unless there are more secure mounting points - THAT ACTUALLY SCREW AND FASTEN IT DOWN it sucks!!!!!!
Read this thread for the annealing information on the aluminum....
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89507
-When I was planning it out I was excited about it but once installed it was a PITA.....
If you could have gotten it not to move it might have worked - a proper bolt for the side of the receiver.
The other thing that I did not like is that really, there is one mounting point - and that is the bolt that does not fit. Hence why that bolt is SOOOO important. There are 2 other contact points that stabalize it but they are not secure - first one just rests under the front lip like the handgaurd (potential to move all over), and the second is where it rests/contacts the top of the barrel - potential to rotate.....
It is a large rail and should be more securely mounted. I thought it was poorly designed - weather the real mccoy or an imposter.... unless there are more secure mounting points - THAT ACTUALLY SCREW AND FASTEN IT DOWN it sucks!!!!!!
Read this thread for the annealing information on the aluminum....
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89507
-When I was planning it out I was excited about it but once installed it was a PITA.....
