I'd like to do some maintenance on my Akkar O/U and I'd like to get into the receiver and make sure everything is okay. On some shoots, a touch of rust dissolved in oil sometimes leaks out the firing pin holes. I haven't been able to find a guide to maintaining the receiver assembly, and I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I'm stuck unable to reassemble or break something. Does anyone know if the receiver assembly is based on another shotgun? My hope is that I can find a guide for that gun.
Akkar Churchill 206 Receiver Disassembly & Maintenance
- Thread starter manyo
- Start date
Well, I took the thing apart, but can't seem to put it together correctly again. I'll describe my issue after the images.
For anyone following along with their own Akkar Churchill 206, you will need a long 5mm Allen key to remove the stock. Make sure that the top lever is centered before you attempt to remove or affix the wooden stock -- otherwise it will get in the way. You want to press the little lever (indicated with red arrow) to do so.
I'm able to reassemble the shotgun in a way that feels normal, but I seem to have an issue with the hammer cocking rods (yellow arrow). They don't seem to want to #### the hammers when I close the action, and the shotgun does not open normally anymore. I think they're jamming or interfering with the operation somehow. Anyone have any ideas?
For anyone following along with their own Akkar Churchill 206, you will need a long 5mm Allen key to remove the stock. Make sure that the top lever is centered before you attempt to remove or affix the wooden stock -- otherwise it will get in the way. You want to press the little lever (indicated with red arrow) to do so.
I'm able to reassemble the shotgun in a way that feels normal, but I seem to have an issue with the hammer cocking rods (yellow arrow). They don't seem to want to #### the hammers when I close the action, and the shotgun does not open normally anymore. I think they're jamming or interfering with the operation somehow. Anyone have any ideas?
Small update:
I've studied the manual and I think the only things that really interact or interfere with the hammer cocking rods are the hammer cocking cams (parts #40 in the diagram). I know that the hammer cocking rods are the problem now, because if you try and manipulate the fore end as if the shotgun was being opened, there is a little tab there which should push the cocking rods backwards and that is not working. You can see in my photo that the fore end has to come away from the receiver to continue rotating. I think the cams may be rotated out of position or something. I've tried jiggling the thing upside down and blasting it with air and nothing has worked.
I'd really love some help! I thought that a picture might be helpful, but I seem to have gotten smack dab into the trouble I was trying to avoid.
I've studied the manual and I think the only things that really interact or interfere with the hammer cocking rods are the hammer cocking cams (parts #40 in the diagram). I know that the hammer cocking rods are the problem now, because if you try and manipulate the fore end as if the shotgun was being opened, there is a little tab there which should push the cocking rods backwards and that is not working. You can see in my photo that the fore end has to come away from the receiver to continue rotating. I think the cams may be rotated out of position or something. I've tried jiggling the thing upside down and blasting it with air and nothing has worked.
I'd really love some help! I thought that a picture might be helpful, but I seem to have gotten smack dab into the trouble I was trying to avoid.
I've had mine apart for cleaning and haven't had any problems. The only thing I noticed from the picture is that the hammers are already cocked. Have you tried releasing the hammers before reassembling ? Then opening the gun should re-#### the hammers as per normal.
Another update:
There doesn't seem to be a problem reassembling the shotgun, but opening the action is maybe 20x harder than it was. It used to open nicely, but now it virtually needs to be broken over a knee and is super loud. It's almost as if the spring pressure behind the hammer has increased dramatically. I think the cams may usually give a lot of mechanical advantage and have rotated out of position or something.
Here's a video of me manipulating the cocking rods, which shows the position of the cams inside the receiver. If you have a bit of time, can you confirm that this is how yours look?
https://i.imgur.com/cmZq3cC.mp4
There doesn't seem to be a problem reassembling the shotgun, but opening the action is maybe 20x harder than it was. It used to open nicely, but now it virtually needs to be broken over a knee and is super loud. It's almost as if the spring pressure behind the hammer has increased dramatically. I think the cams may usually give a lot of mechanical advantage and have rotated out of position or something.
Here's a video of me manipulating the cocking rods, which shows the position of the cams inside the receiver. If you have a bit of time, can you confirm that this is how yours look?
https://i.imgur.com/cmZq3cC.mp4
Took a look at mine - it's a newer model with replaceable trunnions and the sear is slightly different but should be very similar otherwise.
When cocked, there's zero play in the cams and the rods move only slightly under finger pressure.
In the close up pic of the trigger there looks like a piece of metal on the frame just below the spring (above the trigger) that doesn't belong - any chance something fell under the hammers ?
When cocked, there's zero play in the cams and the rods move only slightly under finger pressure.
In the close up pic of the trigger there looks like a piece of metal on the frame just below the spring (above the trigger) that doesn't belong - any chance something fell under the hammers ?
Thanks!
In my video, I cocked the hammers manually by pulling back on them with a hooked pick. When opened after cocking normally, there is no play on the cams, just like your (working) model. The pictures I took were immediately after disassembling so there was still a bit of junk in the receiver. There is absolutely nothing loose in there, I am pretty confident -- I've lubed it, blown it out, then lubed and blown it out again to try and free everything up.
I love this forum! People with absolutely no firearms knowledge, trying to fix a problem that does not exist. Too cheap to purchase a well known firearm and then too cheap to take it to someone who could actually clean and reassemble the firearm. As someone once said "you get what you paid for"!!
1963beretta
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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- Vaughan, Ontario
I wouldnt call him a forum regular. Member since 2004, 1 transaction completed and 171 total posts in 14 years. Sounds more like someone who got up on the wrong side of the bed with something lodged in this @ss
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Appreciate the attention to detail! I've (gently) blasted out everything in the receiver to get out any pieces of debris and followed up with a patch and a pick -- probably 3-5 times depending on the spot. This is almost certainly the cleanest used Akkar in the GTA by now
Just to give a little more info --
It doesn't feel like a lubrication or grit issue. The shotgun is simply very stiff on opening if the hammer is uncocked (the hammer is cocked by opening). The thing works like normal if the hammer is cocked. So I think there is some mechanical problem specifically to do with the action of cocking the hammer, but I am still able to operate the gun if I give it the significantly extra oomph it requires. On other O/Us you can operate the lever and the shotgun will 'flop' open from the weight of the barrel, this one will open like 15% and stop. I can force it open, and if I do, the cocking sound is much louder than usual.
Consulting the diagram and pictures on the internet (one provided for reference), it looks like everything is in the right place. I'm at a loss. Studying the diagrams and breaking out the bench vice and some magnifying glasses, it looks like the cams and hammers are fine. I even oiled up the springs, thinking that the friction of the springs against the guide rod they ride on might account for the significant extra force required.
I can only really think of a few possibilities:
1) Lots of increased friction on the hammer cocking action -- doesn't seem like this is the case, everything is pretty well lubed
2) Some sort of loss of mechanical advantage is making the cocking action require more force -- I think the answer is in here somewhere, but if the cam is working properly then I can't think of another component that could do this (i mean, the barrel isn't going to get shorter or lighter). I've tried to account for every part on the diagram and I think they're all there. I checked the floor under my table to check for loose parts with a flashlight...
3) Actual increased spring pressure on the hammers -- maybe brushing the springs the first time with an oiled brush I inadvertently increased their force somehow? Like they're tuneable or something?
It doesn't feel like a lubrication or grit issue. The shotgun is simply very stiff on opening if the hammer is uncocked (the hammer is cocked by opening). The thing works like normal if the hammer is cocked. So I think there is some mechanical problem specifically to do with the action of cocking the hammer, but I am still able to operate the gun if I give it the significantly extra oomph it requires. On other O/Us you can operate the lever and the shotgun will 'flop' open from the weight of the barrel, this one will open like 15% and stop. I can force it open, and if I do, the cocking sound is much louder than usual.
Consulting the diagram and pictures on the internet (one provided for reference), it looks like everything is in the right place. I'm at a loss. Studying the diagrams and breaking out the bench vice and some magnifying glasses, it looks like the cams and hammers are fine. I even oiled up the springs, thinking that the friction of the springs against the guide rod they ride on might account for the significant extra force required.
I can only really think of a few possibilities:
1) Lots of increased friction on the hammer cocking action -- doesn't seem like this is the case, everything is pretty well lubed
2) Some sort of loss of mechanical advantage is making the cocking action require more force -- I think the answer is in here somewhere, but if the cam is working properly then I can't think of another component that could do this (i mean, the barrel isn't going to get shorter or lighter). I've tried to account for every part on the diagram and I think they're all there. I checked the floor under my table to check for loose parts with a flashlight...
3) Actual increased spring pressure on the hammers -- maybe brushing the springs the first time with an oiled brush I inadvertently increased their force somehow? Like they're tuneable or something?
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Did you remove the hammers - according to the parts list there is a left and a right one - maybe switched ?
As an aside, it's quite easy to disable the auto safety by removing the L shaped rod under the safety switch - everything still functions normally after removal. Did that with mine to use for clays.
As an aside, it's quite easy to disable the auto safety by removing the L shaped rod under the safety switch - everything still functions normally after removal. Did that with mine to use for clays.
Never removed the hammers -- I did mistakenly release one by touching the sear, but that shouldn't have done anything... but is an interesting lead. The hammers are captive on a pin, I have not removed any pins at all (I know they're correct because they strike the firing pins in the correct spots).
I thought (and sort of still think) that perhaps the cocking rods or cam were out of position because of that accidental hammer fall but I can't see how that could happen (the cam especially only really works in one position and is very captive... not sure how the cocking rods operate inside their little channel).
I thought (and sort of still think) that perhaps the cocking rods or cam were out of position because of that accidental hammer fall but I can't see how that could happen (the cam especially only really works in one position and is very captive... not sure how the cocking rods operate inside their little channel).
Any chance one of the cocking rods is bent - test by cocking both barrels then fire one barrel then re-#### (open the gun) then do the other - see if there's any difference in feel - both should be the same and easier than when both barrels fired (only one hammer and ejector to reset) - other than that I'm out of ideas
It is easier to #### with only one barrel fired, but the force is equivalent on both barrels. The force for just one barrel still exceeds the normal operation, which used to be able to be done almost entirely with the force of gravity. I even checked to see if the hammer spring guide rod was bent! I really appreciate your help -- there is something going on here, and I'm glad the forum is helping me through this puzzle
