Alfa proj carbine?

Fit and finish is not quite up to S & W or Ruger standards, but they are solid and work. I would have no use for a restricted pistol caliber carbine; but I am thinking that there may be an Alpha Project .357 in my future. What sucks is I don't have time to shoot what I have now.

Mark
 
I had a Alfa, It's no S&W and my 9mm one had sticky cylinders. You can get a scope mount.

But when it didn't have sticky chambers it wasn't a bad pistol. But I would still take a S&W over one.
 
Have purchased several Alfa Proj revolvers and several S&W revolvers. I would have to say the S&W are a better gun BUT by no means are the Alfa Proj guns junk. They do have some things over newer S&W guns. Such as recessed cylinders, no MIM parts, no internal lock and usually hundreds of dollars less. I never had sticky chambers but I have seen front sights get loose and the first one I had spit a bit more than I liked. I still have one AP and I like it. Still have a couple S&W's.

Moe
 
I was looking at revolvers for several years, and for many reasons, I went went with a Ruger GP100.
Czech stuff is good stuff but service is better on domestic.
 
I can’t speak to the quality of AP revolvers, but I think everyone should at least try a wheel gun. Mastering the double action trigger is especially satisfying.
 
I had a 9mm and would agree that Alfa, while decent, is a step below.
Just to be clear, they have zero connection with CZ other than being locating in the same country. They are a fairly recent company and I believe they were just making starter pistols and police handcuffs up until a few years ago.
 
I have an Alfa project 9mm revolver. Its functionally the same. Like others have said the fit and finish is nicer on a S&W. The alfa is also half the cost of a smith and it works just fine. Its my only revolver and it is fun to shoot. Too bad a suck at shooting revolvers...
 
I have a 9mm 4.5 inch bbl blued revolver. Love it.

I also have 686-3 and GP100. IMO, the 686-3 is the best with regard to fit and finish. The GP is the most ruggedly built.

But the AP is fit, finished and built well enough. No complaints from me. Mine has the reduced power mainspring and will only fire Federal ammo reliably. I only use Federal primers when I reload for it.
 
No one has yet commented on the poor idea of a foregrip? Revolver owners know that a couple of "moth wings" of flame and particles come out of the front of the cylinder due to the cylinder gap. Sticking your hand and wrist out ahead is just not a good idea.

Early revolver carbines did not include a foregrip and the idea was that the second support hand was perched under the butt end of the grip frame. This being to avoid the flash and particles from ruining and cutting into shirts and skin. In particular if any lead or jacket is peeled off and flies out pushed by the gases it could really hurt.

So all in all while it seems like a fun idea I'd suggest that the foregrip be removed to encourage the support hand being used to cup the main hand instead of supporting the front of the barrel.
 
I have a 9251C in 9mm for the price it's a good revolver, the problem I have it the trigger guard has sharp edges that dig into my knuckle I put 50 rounds through yesterday I can still feel the guard on my knuckle. I checked the gun with a magnet the barrel is stainless while frame I suspect is nickle plated steel. My plan was to round off the sharp edges however being plated steel I'm looking at different grip options.
 
I have 4 similar guns now. T/C Encore with .45 ACP, 10mm, .357 mag, and .454(.45Colt).

I like the T/C, tack drivers. If I did this I would go .22LR, put a hand grip on it, and mount a scope.
 
bat119 said:
I have a 9251C in 9mm for the price it's a good revolver, the problem I have it the trigger guard has sharp edges that dig into my knuckle I put 50 rounds through yesterday I can still feel the guard on my knuckle. I checked the gun with a magnet the barrel is stainless while frame I suspect is nickle plated steel. My plan was to round off the sharp edges however being plated steel I'm looking at different grip options.
Click to expand...

Having a set of grips that fits your hand better does play a big part in how much the gun floats around in your hand when it recoils. A Super Blackhawk in .44 mag with stock grips beat up my middle finger like a meat cleaver until I made new wood grip scales that were more "fat" around the upper neck. Massively more comfortable and no more beaten up finger.
 
bat119 said:
I have a 9251C in 9mm for the price it's a good revolver, the problem I have it the trigger guard has sharp edges that dig into my knuckle I put 50 rounds through yesterday I can still feel the guard on my knuckle. I checked the gun with a magnet the barrel is stainless while frame I suspect is nickle plated steel. My plan was to round off the sharp edges however being plated steel I'm looking at different grip options.
Click to expand...

There are some magnetic stainless steel alloys. For example, induction stoves need magnetic pots and pans to work. These induction stoves come with a rubber magnet to test the magnetic characteristics of different "stainless" cooking utensils. Saladmaster stainless utensils are magnetic and useable in induction stoves.

IMO, you can ask Alfa Project if their frame is indeed stainless.

BTW I also have a similar problem with my middle finger knuckle being too tight between the trigger guard and grip. I have smaller hands. But have gout which first exhibited itself as a swelling in the middle joint of my middle finger, 30 yrs ago shooting 700 rds of almost full load .45ACP in one afternoon of Bianchi Cup practice. The joint swelling never subsided.

Then again, I will never permanently alter the metal of any gun I own. That will ruin its value. BC Rider's suggestion above is better. I hope it works for you.
 
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BCRider said:
No one has yet commented on the poor idea of a foregrip? Revolver owners know that a couple of "moth wings" of flame and particles come out of the front of the cylinder due to the cylinder gap. Sticking your hand and wrist out ahead is just not a good idea.

Early revolver carbines did not include a foregrip and the idea was that the second support hand was perched under the butt end of the grip frame. This being to avoid the flash and particles from ruining and cutting into shirts and skin. In particular if any lead or jacket is peeled off and flies out pushed by the gases it could really hurt.

So all in all while it seems like a fun idea I'd suggest that the foregrip be removed to encourage the support hand being used to cup the main hand instead of supporting the front of the barrel.
Click to expand...

I'd wondered about that as well. When i was first being taught to shoot a revolver keeping my weak hand away from the cylinder/forcing cone gap was stressed over and over again.
I did read somewhere that the Rossi Circuit Judge revolving carbines had some sort of guard or deflector. I wonder if Alfa did anything similar?
 
Wonder if this Alfa was designed with the UK market in mind. Hits all the specs. Looks a little better than this anyway:
Taurus.jpg
 
gdawg said:
Wonder if this Alfa was designed with the UK market in mind. Hits all the specs. Looks a little better than this anyway:
Taurus.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes it is designed for the UK. Yup one way around UK gun laws. Not an Alfa though but rather it is a Taurus. Another way British cope with their BS is AP offers a black powder percussion version of the 357. No need for the long rod and barrel. Uses shotgun 209 primers as a cap.

God I hope we don't end up that bad.
Moe
 
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