All M&P Owners Should Watch This

Petamocto said:
Why do you need spare parts for a machine that is so perfectly made that it will never break?

You sound like a Chrysler owner who won't buy a crappy car without a dealer close by.

Just buy a good gun/car in the first place, and you won't need to worry about spare parts.
Click to expand...

I believe that both items are sold by the same store that sells unicorns.
 
Slide stop.
Service carry procedure for "most" failures/problems is "tap and rack"
Not
Tap and depress slide stop...if said slide is even locked back.

Also, why would you be carrying and hand full of brass in one hand while needing to depress the slide stop? Wouldnt the safest thing to do be :
1 unload and proof safe
2 holster or put said firearm away
3 then proceed to clean up brass

Also.. there is more potential to have a ftf depressing the slide stop instead of letting the full force of the spring do its job
 
crazyjackrabbit said:
Slide stop.
Service carry procedure for "most" failures/problems is "tap and rack"
Not
Tap and depress slide stop...if said slide is even locked back.

Also, why would you be carrying and hand full of brass in one hand while needing to depress the slide stop? Wouldnt the safest thing to do be :
1 unload and proof safe
2 holster or put said firearm away
3 then proceed to clean up brass

Also.. there is more potential to have a ftf depressing the slide stop instead of letting the full force of the spring do its job
Click to expand...

I hate to have to explain this to you but if your hand is over the top of the slide as you pull back on the slide IF the slide slips the loaded round can and has hit the ejector resulting in an out of battery discharge. The shooter gets his hand full of brass which has to be surgically removed. We aren't talking about the tap rack drill we are talking about doing a slide lock reload. It is faster to hit the slide release or so says Bob Vogel and Dave Sevigny but then what do they know. The sling shot method is simply slower than hitting the slide release.

Take Care

Bob
ps Think or don't think Shawn I could give a rats arse
 
Canuck44 said:
I hate to have to explain this to you but if your hand is over the top of the slide as you pull back on the slide IF the slide slips the loaded round can and has hit the ejector resulting in an out of battery discharge. The shooter gets his hand full of brass which has to be surgically removed. We aren't talking about the tap rack drill we are talking about doing a slide lock reload. It is faster to hit the slide release or so says Bob Vogel and Dave Sevigny but then what do they know. The sling shot method is simply slower than hitting the slide release.

Take Care

Bob
ps Think or don't think Shawn I could give a rats arse
Click to expand...

I thinks its you that has to think a little more.

Where exactly is the ejection port pointed when you let the slide go forward? Or are you trying to tell us that you reload your firearms at full arms length. Not to mention your hand is never covering the ejection port to begin with and we are not talking about slide lock reloads either.

LOL keep up the good work

Shawn
 
Someone call Larry Vickers and tell him he's doing it wrong - might as well call Paul Howe, Dave Harrington and Bob Vogel while you're at it. Wow, you wouldn't think ALL of those guys would be wrong, given their backgrounds, would you?
 
Tongarirohiker said:
Good bit of information, although his delivery wasn't the best.

That said, it's likely that this is only affecting M&P's older than 2013/2014 as I've had no slide stop issues with my 2wk old M&P9. I'd say it takes the same amount of pressure as a CZ SP-01, a Sig or even my Browning Buckmark. Or I've just got Hercules thumbs?
Click to expand...




This. I picked up a pro core this year and no problem with the thumb release. Now if I can only get started on IPSC.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom