aluminum anodizing

Farlsincharge

Farlsincharge

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Can anyone recommend an outfit to do some anodizing. It is just a front site blade that would need to be done in the flattest black possible.
Preferably an outfit that wouldn't mind doing such a small and tedious piece.

Thanks
 
The finish from anodizing depends solely on what the existing surface is like. If it's shiney just now then you can "flat it up" by dunking in some lye and water mixture to etch the surface to a dull grey. That'll give you a nice flat finish when black anodized. Otherwise it'll come back as shiney as it went out. Just it'll be black.

Whoever you get to do the work should be able to do this for you but as it's an extra step it'll cost vs you doing it yourself before taking it in.
 
http://www.thirdgen.org/anodizealuminum

Only one change should be made to this procedure. When you get to the sealing it by boiling part, dont use fresh water. Just take the dyed solution and boil the part in that. If you use fresh it will leach some of the colour out and black will sometimes turn to a light forrest green. I've done this with lots of stuff and it works GREAT

Note: Do a test with a piece of scrap aluminum before you try it on a valuable part. Once its done, its permenant
 
moosedude said:
http://www.thirdgen.org/anodizealuminum

Only one change should be made to this procedure. When you get to the sealing it by boiling part, dont use fresh water. Just take the dyed solution and boil the part in that. If you use fresh it will leach some of the colour out and black will sometimes turn to a light forrest green. I've done this with lots of stuff and it works GREAT

Note: Do a test with a piece of scrap aluminum before you try it on a valuable part. Once its done, its permenant
Click to expand...

Not that permanent... provided you aren't trying to hold tight tolerances you can always use Easy Off oven cleaner to strip the part.

Will take several coats of Easy Off... wear gloves and a mask!

It will take some rework to get the finish back though. It's going to look like it had caustic oven cleaner on it, because it did!

Even if you etch the material down a little, you can chill your acid solution and use a calculation called "the 720 rule" to build it up a bit with a denser, harder anodize. You'll need to know the current, preferably a constant current power supply, and surface area of the part.

Hard anodize takes longer (slower reaction due to chilling), and doesn't take color as well.

I highly recommend the Caswell sites for info on DIY plating anything. I used to do a lot of it myself but I am so busy lately I outsource almost all my metal finishing.
 
Well i've got parts on my wifes Mustang that I did 10 years ago using this method that look as good today as they did the first day after I did them. And they live under the hood of a car that is not garage kept, with all the moisture, oil, engine cleaners, and heat that we can throw at it. So dont worry, this process works VERY well
 
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