Am I over-pressured?

I think old brass will just crack/split just because it’s old
Annealing may help or may not
I got a bunch of old 32 Remington brass a while back and decided to anneal them before I tried resizing them and prob 40% of them split while annealing them!
I never seen that before but the brass was pretty dirty and crusty maybe I should have wet tumbled them first
 
I use Norma brass and I have had nothing but success with it.

To me, your primers look pretty flat comparing them to mine when fired, which to me, suggests you could be a little hot on the powder charge.

Also, if its the neck that it is splitting, your brass has become work hardened and brittle. Soften it back up with a propane torch to a dull red color and you should be good to use them for another 7ish firings before you need to do it again.
 
I think old brass will just crack/split just because it’s old
Annealing may help or may not
I got a bunch of old 32 Remington brass a while back and decided to anneal them before I tried resizing them and prob 40% of them split while annealing them!
I never seen that before but the brass was pretty dirty and crusty maybe I should have wet tumbled them first
You anneal with FLAME. 🔥 ?
 
OK, perfect! I appreciate all the advice and will rework the load this winter.

Also the missing primer is from resizing, that is when I noticed that crack.

I will start at about 63gr as gatehouse recommends and go from there.

Now is the brass that I have used with this load trash? I have about 30-40 cases that 'might' have been fired with this current load but don't show cracks. Unfortunately I loaded this last year and didn't keep track of what brass was fired with 66+ gr

The brass isn't trash unless it's cracked or the primer pocket is too big. Anneal your brass, it might help with the cracking but it looks to me like it's been fired way more than once. I've loaded for 300WSM since it was introduced (so about 20 years) and have found that some brass does crack a bit prematurely compared to many other cartridges (without annealing) but never on the second load. You can #### around and anneal and work up another load or just go straight to the new brass option.

Barnes load for H4350 seems a bit hot, especially for a solid copper bullet that may not compress as well as cup and core bullets. Most other sources max out in the 64-65 grain range using lead core bullets so you may want to start a little lower than 63, especially if you are using thicker brass with less case capacity. 63-64 is where I expect you will hit max or close to it. I use 4350 in 300WSM with lighter bullets, for 175+ grain I move to slower powders but many sources list H4350 so if that's all you got you may as well use it.
 
In addition to annealing, as mentioned numerous times, I would tumble the brass to make sure they are clean and also clean your dies.
 
Ok well pulled all the bullets out of my cases. I have about 44 cases of the Norma brass that aren’t cracked and looks to be close to brand new (maybe one or two firings). All of the cases that were cracked were quite dull meaning I am assuming they had many more firings through them.

So my next question for you guys, when reworking this load and starting off much lower, would you invest the time/energy into the Norma brass or buy new brass? I have a box of Hornady brass that is brand new I could use…
 
How do you know they haven't just been cleaned before you bought them ??????

I've seen plenty of socalled "once fired" cases on gunshow tables that had several reloads on them.

It can be very difficult to tell.

Anneal those cases. Why are you avoiding it? It's easy to do.
 
300WSM, Norma brass, H4350 and 175gr LRX

I worked up a load for the 175gr and followed the recommended starting and max load for h4350. I ended up with 66.8gr which was a pretty solid group (3 touching at 100yrd) but I noticed my brass had a little crack in it after an elk hunt. I never used this Norma brass with my previous load so not sure if that is the issue or if I am in fact overpressure even though I am under the Barnes 'Max'. I dropped the load down to 66.6gr to see if the cracks would go away and they are still present in some of the spent cases. The bolt is easy to lift up and I can't see any other signs of overpressure. Also the cracks only appear in 1 of every 3-5 shots.

My average vel is 3074fps but that is from a cheaper chrono and not a garmin.

thoughts?
Primers look fine to me based on that picture. I suspect the brass is hardened or is being sized down too much.

Try annealing or buying new brass, and set your FL die up so that it only pushes the shoulder back .001" or .002"

I bet you're good after that.

P.S. - "once fired" brass usually means "range pickup brass" Do yourself a favour and don;t buy used brass unless you're saving lots of money or you just can;t find new anywhere. Quality 300wsm brass will last a long time and is worth the investment. Just my personal opinion.
 
OK, perfect! I appreciate all the advice and will rework the load this winter.

Also the missing primer is from resizing, that is when I noticed that crack.

I will start at about 63gr as gatehouse recommends and go from there.

Now is the brass that I have used with this load trash? I have about 30-40 cases that 'might' have been fired with this current load but don't show cracks. Unfortunately I loaded this last year and didn't keep track of what brass was fired with 66+ gr
First of all, look at different sources for your data, second of all gatehouse didn’t suggest you to start at those powder charges, so again, start low and go up. Gatehouse doesn’t own your rifle and the components you are using don’t use his suggestion unless they are starting loads in multiple books/references!
The brass that aren’t cracked yet can be annealed!
Also sitting depth can play a role on pressure so are the type of brass used different head stamp means different volumes so be careful!
 
Just for fun, how far from the lands are you sitting your bullets? Monolithic bullets need more jump and if you sit your bullet to close to the lands it can increase pressure… how far are they ?
 
I'd throw that used brass in the trash not worth the hassle and risk...Use your new Hornady brass of known condition.

In your pictures of the used brass I think you may have incipient signs of headspace separation...Good way to tell is feel the inside of the case for thinning brass in the head area of the case...Think you have been sold well used brass...How tight/loose are the primer pockets?
 
I dunno about that barnes load data... ran it through grt using 175lrx and h4350 for 300wsm and published max was 20,000psi over cartridge max pressure. I worked up and started getting flattened primers, sticky bolt lift and swipe well before book max.

Also ran a 130ttsx, 308, ramshot tac to barnes max charge weight through grt and it was 30k psi over cartridge max pressure (94,000psi or something wild like that). I wouldn't load barnes published max myself, nor trust grt 100% either. Start low, work up, see pressure signs, back off.

Brass just needs annealing.
 
  • Wow
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This isn't gospel but it sure is neat. Safe zone vs barnes published max for 175lrx h4350. My load workup for this combo would validate this to a degree.
 

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Regarding annealing - I never used to do that - back around 2002 or so, I got a Ruger #1A in 7x57 - usually I would get new Remington bulk brass - like 50 or 100 cases per bag - I probably reloaded some of them a few times, but I did not keep good records and really do not know what I did, then. My reloading records show that I used RL-19 powder under 150 grain Nosler Partition bullets - several hundred of them. Those fired brass were put in bags to anneal "one day". Fast forward to a few years ago - another 7x57 rifle - first time to resize circa 80 cases, I must have had 20 of them crack the neck when FLS sizing. So, I bought a Salt Bath Annealing kit - the principle of that seller is apparently a metallurgist from Western Canada. I annealed a pile of those brass following the user instructions in that kit - I got perhaps 10 cracked necks out of another 75 or so cases - so the "annealing" helped, but did not eliminate the cracked necks. I have not reloaded any of those cases yet - the ones that did not crack necks when resized. I believe now that I was seeing "stress corrosion cracking" on brass that was close to 20 years old - although I have certainly read of others who have re-sized 50 year old brass without issue.

A next-door neighbour brought over a box full of mixed up 22-250 cases - various head stamps - RP, W-W, Barnes, PMC, etc. - I believe all were from factory ammo that had been fired once. During sorting for head stamp. I found four cracked necks on W-W cases - the shooter in question probably did not know which or when the case necks cracked. I FLS circa 120 of those W-W cases and never found another cracked neck. However, I bought a Red Label bag of W-W 22-250 brass - from the bag, probably half dozen would not even chamber in my rifle - the necks and case mouths were so deformed - I FLS and trimmed to length the rest of that bag of "new" brass - as if W-W changed brass subcontractors from the days they sold "Blue Label" bags of brass - which I have had no problems with, at all.
Potam, you've been around long enough to know what happened to the brass in your cases.

The sad truth is brass from one batch to the next is seldom identical. I mean "brass" as in the metal.

The higher the pressure, the higher the heat generated, and the forces which cause certain elements in the brass mixture to be perged.

There are elements within the formulae that make the case strong, hard, and ductile, all at the same time.

Remove any of those elements or even a small amount, and the brass making the case will be ruined forever, as far as reloading activities are concerned.

Remington Jim keeps insisting the cases in the OP's pics are "junk."

IMHO, the OP was mislead into believing he had purchased "once fired" cases, and it's possible they were once fired. However what pressures were they fired at???? How long were they stored afterward?

Being a surplus arms fan, you've come across this situation with receivers, at least one that I know of.

If you've purchased some very old surplus ammunition, military or commercial, it's not uncommon for the cases to have cracked necks and they've never been fired or reloaded.

In the case of the cartridge necks, there are multiple causes, such as the metallurgy of the case itself is "hard," and when the bullet was inserted the tension caused the case neck to crack from the constant force of trying to retain tension on the bullet over several decades.

There were other factors, of course, but once that point has been reached, there is no fixing it.

By annealing the cases now, the OP should be able to recover some, which may or may not give him a couple more reloads.
 
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