- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Was talking to a fella on ammo cans, and locks came up . If anyone has pics of their bubba jobs(locking methods) on 50 cal or other military surplus ammo cans please post pics to give folks your good ideas. 
Ammo cans ?
- Thread starter Levi Garrett
- Start date
ColdOne said:
Thanks. I was in my basement looking for my pellet guns today and I found my self an old .50CAL ammo can and I said this would be really nice to store ammo, however I saw no way to lock it but I did see that hole on side. I am definatley going to order some of those bad boys.
THANKS ALOT!!!!!
Would anyone like to do a group order. Its gonna cost me 16.95 to ship one of these to my self, and 18.95 to ship 4... (these were the two packs) so if anyone wants to do a big bulk order let me know, I'll get it goin.
Group Buys Require CGN Admin approval before anything is started.
SKBY.
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- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
You da man Question though, what stops the top from sliding? Guess the fit is snug enough eh
Question though, what stops the top from sliding? Guess the fit is snug enough eh
Friction. The top hat looking device sits flush against the can with the nipple comming out of the hole in the handle. I was playing with my ammo can earlier and this will definatley be safe. Theres no way to get than handle up because it would be putting all the pressure on the l-bracket which shouldent move at all.
I just use a regular lock hasp mounted with pop rivets to the ammo can behind the lock tab and cut a slot in the lock tab so it will close over the hasp. It's a lot better than the contraption in the picture above, the only thing you remove to open mine is the lock.
Ammo Can Lock
Center punch can thru hole in locking handle and drill to match diameter of available junk bin bolt. Insert bolt thru hole from inside and mark for cutoff and hole to be drilled thru bolt for lock hasp - drill hole in bolt and cut bolt to length. Weld or epoxy bolt head to inside of can and file/dremel hole in locking handle slightly to allow closure. Fill with ammo, close and lock. Caution - sometimes tends to mousetrap fingers. Cost ( if you don't break a drill bit ) - 20 minutes and maybe 50 cents.
Center punch can thru hole in locking handle and drill to match diameter of available junk bin bolt. Insert bolt thru hole from inside and mark for cutoff and hole to be drilled thru bolt for lock hasp - drill hole in bolt and cut bolt to length. Weld or epoxy bolt head to inside of can and file/dremel hole in locking handle slightly to allow closure. Fill with ammo, close and lock. Caution - sometimes tends to mousetrap fingers. Cost ( if you don't break a drill bit ) - 20 minutes and maybe 50 cents.
Craftsman 441
CGN Regular
- Location
- Wainwright
At work I just finished converting ammo cans into lockable cans to carry weapon bolts over to Afghanistan.
It's simple if you have the tools. All I did was make a slot in the opening lever and weld half of a chain link into place behind it. Same idea as Silverback's.
There are two styles of opening lever on the cans some have a hole, others have slots. Slots are ideal, but if you have only the single hole, use a die grinder to make a slot or try drilling two holes and use a zip-cut wheel between them. The steel is hardened, so drilling is more difficult and dulls bits faster.
Kayceel brings up another good idea. Personally, I'd rather weld because then your ammo box stays watertight/airtight. That and I like welding.
It's simple if you have the tools. All I did was make a slot in the opening lever and weld half of a chain link into place behind it. Same idea as Silverback's.
There are two styles of opening lever on the cans some have a hole, others have slots. Slots are ideal, but if you have only the single hole, use a die grinder to make a slot or try drilling two holes and use a zip-cut wheel between them. The steel is hardened, so drilling is more difficult and dulls bits faster.
Kayceel brings up another good idea. Personally, I'd rather weld because then your ammo box stays watertight/airtight. That and I like welding.
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dave_t73 said:
The pin fits through the hole in the handle. Once the bar is up over the top & locked to the pin, it is tight enough so that you can't pull the handle open without the lockbar stopping it by wedging against the top of the case. It also cant rotate far enough side to side to get it over the edge. Simple yet functional!
(((Echo)))
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Old Man Land, AB
Its not a .50 can, but it works great!
(E)
(E)
I just drilled a 1/4 inch hole through the top lip of the box, sideways, coming out the side and loop a padlock through....works perfectly and free. You can totally remove the flip-lock mechanism afterwards as it serves no purpose now. Still carry the box by the top handle. Mine is a typical box, like bcsteve's.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Solid materials vs wire bales
Now, what keeps the box from being stolen ....
This is a more robust design than the suggestion by GARAND. Harder to stack or store close together, but more secure. The 1/8" rod between the closure and the lid is not connected underneath. There is nothing to keep those loops from being pryed apart and the lock bypassed. No, connect the lid to the box with a folding hasp and your box will be much more secure.(((Echo))) said:
(E)
Now, what keeps the box from being stolen ....
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Darn, now I want fit locks on my 7.62 cans excellent pics
excellent pics
