ammo's for my Savage Mark 2...
- Thread starter ben777lemay
- Start date
i already tried one model of American Eagle and this is not for this riffle. and i will put some Fed 510c on my buy list ! Tomorow i go to buy some of the brands you suggest me... CCI, SK, Eley, Lapua, Fed... I hope to find them all at the same store... They don't have them in my town 
so i'm going to Montreal in da morning !!!
so i'm going to Montreal in da morning !!!
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Ok so i went back with everything exept Eley's, the guy had no more in stock but he's w8ting 4 them soon...
I only hope those SK will be good cauz there were only boxes of 500 !!
I took a guess cauz my friend wil buy it to shoot in his mark3 if i dont like them.
Here a pic of my Savage, hope you enjoy !
Just hope i got some spare time soon to try those ammo's !
Ben
I'd like to offer some other things to consider amongst some of the great advice here. Yes, shooting at least 10 shots before going for a group will lay down the bullet lube. Try this some time, fire a string of high end ammo, then a string right away with a cheaper ammo. You may find that lower end now shoots lights out. I have found this with brands like Lapua, Fiocci, and then runnign American eagles. Very cool indeed, and shows to me that bullet lube is very important in 22s.
I have found that feeding from the clip may induce some error through damage to the bullet. It appears the savage clips may cause more issue in this case. I have found single feeding best if you are looking for max accuracy.
Cleaning a 22 may be viewed many ways. Some times it is one of just feeling guilty I guess. So match the regimin to the purpose. If you are trying to stretch out every bit of accuracy, then consider 100 or so before cleaining. For normal purposes, you can stretch out the cleaining to when groups start to deteriorate.
My two bits.
I have found that feeding from the clip may induce some error through damage to the bullet. It appears the savage clips may cause more issue in this case. I have found single feeding best if you are looking for max accuracy.
Cleaning a 22 may be viewed many ways. Some times it is one of just feeling guilty I guess. So match the regimin to the purpose. If you are trying to stretch out every bit of accuracy, then consider 100 or so before cleaining. For normal purposes, you can stretch out the cleaining to when groups start to deteriorate.
My two bits.
Thx ELKHUNTER for your advices. When i will find the ammo that will give me consistent gr8 groupings, that will be interesting to see the difference between mag feed and single feed....
Maybe i washed it too often
Hope to show you the results soon...
Maybe i washed it too often
Hope to show you the results soon...
Come on, it's not like that rifle is a Harley Davidson or something~you don't need to keep it THAT clean! lol
I'm guilty of the same thing, and of ammo. biases. I still refuse to accept that I shoot better groups with 20grain ammo in my HMR than I do with the .17 grain.
With respect to your gun and the ranges you're shooting, ammo is a big part of the equation, but not the only part. Wind, trigger pull are others...as is the rest you're shooting off of. I get better results of a bag with my .22, better off my bipod with my HMR. Can't explain it, but you should experiment a little. In terms of ammo, I think that guns have their own personalities, and figuring-out what they like to eat is part of that. I target shoot very informally, and won't spring for match-grade ammo to punch paper. The winners in the .22s I shoot most are Federal Gold Medal Target in my Anschutz 1450, CCI subsonic HP in my Norinco backpacker (strange, I know) I just bough a 22WMR Savage, and have such high expectations from Hornady's new 30grain V-Max loads that I bough about 6 boxes of it before I even got the rifle~so take my advice with a grain of salt!
I'm guilty of the same thing, and of ammo. biases. I still refuse to accept that I shoot better groups with 20grain ammo in my HMR than I do with the .17 grain.
With respect to your gun and the ranges you're shooting, ammo is a big part of the equation, but not the only part. Wind, trigger pull are others...as is the rest you're shooting off of. I get better results of a bag with my .22, better off my bipod with my HMR. Can't explain it, but you should experiment a little. In terms of ammo, I think that guns have their own personalities, and figuring-out what they like to eat is part of that. I target shoot very informally, and won't spring for match-grade ammo to punch paper. The winners in the .22s I shoot most are Federal Gold Medal Target in my Anschutz 1450, CCI subsonic HP in my Norinco backpacker (strange, I know) I just bough a 22WMR Savage, and have such high expectations from Hornady's new 30grain V-Max loads that I bough about 6 boxes of it before I even got the rifle~so take my advice with a grain of salt!
this thread is three freakin' pages long.... so i guess people have already mentioned Win Dynapoint GT (good and cheap) and SK Standard Plus (great and not too expensive).
with my TRR, even at 25m indoors i had HORRIBLE groups with Rem Target, and only Dyna and SK stuff would group nice-n-tight. at 100yd, Dyna works well (10 shots in 1 inch with one flyer out to 1.5 inch)
with my TRR, even at 25m indoors i had HORRIBLE groups with Rem Target, and only Dyna and SK stuff would group nice-n-tight. at 100yd, Dyna works well (10 shots in 1 inch with one flyer out to 1.5 inch)
what scope do you have mounted? i've got a sightron 6.5-20 and at 100yds, i run it maxed out at 20x and honestly i wish i had more power.
i haven't really tried SK ammo at the 100yd distance, only at 25yd, but if the performance can be extrapolated, i'd expect 1" groups at 100yd without too much trouble.
BUT - i should mention that each time i switch ammo types, i run 2 wet patches and 3-5 dry patches down the bore, and then run a box of 50 rounds through it to fully "season" the barrel and get a rough idea of where to re-set my scope to before actually shooting 'for real'
i haven't really tried SK ammo at the 100yd distance, only at 25yd, but if the performance can be extrapolated, i'd expect 1" groups at 100yd without too much trouble.
BUT - i should mention that each time i switch ammo types, i run 2 wet patches and 3-5 dry patches down the bore, and then run a box of 50 rounds through it to fully "season" the barrel and get a rough idea of where to re-set my scope to before actually shooting 'for real'
My scope is actually a Tasco Target 6-24X...
I know its cheap, especially the mechanical parts...
But the optic is OK.
I must say i got a pretty good deal on it but honestly maybe i think i will change it in the future... After my other riffle project will be complete ( i just buy a Savage 10 FCP-K in .308 Win )
If i change it, the Sighthron can be a good choice. I heard just good comments from those scopes* Or maybe the Bushnell elite 3200 target/mildot should be enough for a .22lr riffle.
I know its cheap, especially the mechanical parts...
But the optic is OK.
I must say i got a pretty good deal on it but honestly maybe i think i will change it in the future... After my other riffle project will be complete ( i just buy a Savage 10 FCP-K in .308 Win )
If i change it, the Sighthron can be a good choice. I heard just good comments from those scopes* Or maybe the Bushnell elite 3200 target/mildot should be enough for a .22lr riffle.
well, my sightron scope cost more than the savage rifle it sits on ($650 versus $500 approx). a buddy of mine has a tasco 6-24, an older one, and it works but he admits that even with the adjustable objective it has focus/parallax issues and is not clear enough at 24x for 22LR sniping.
the nice thing about 22LR is that since the ammo itself is relatively cheap, you CAN afford to get a nicer scope. and as the holes are smaller, a higher power scope is worth considering.
i like my sightron, but if i were to do it again i'd maybe pick the 8-32 or 10-50 instead (for around $350 more)
regardless of how much you or i spend on the scope, the ammo (even SK Rifle Match) is quite affordable overall. at the "case (10 bricks, 5000 rounds)" level, probably costs about the same as CCI Stingers or 9mm handgun stuff - within 20% or so. so, it's not THAT big of a deal.
the nice thing about 22LR is that since the ammo itself is relatively cheap, you CAN afford to get a nicer scope. and as the holes are smaller, a higher power scope is worth considering.
i like my sightron, but if i were to do it again i'd maybe pick the 8-32 or 10-50 instead (for around $350 more)
regardless of how much you or i spend on the scope, the ammo (even SK Rifle Match) is quite affordable overall. at the "case (10 bricks, 5000 rounds)" level, probably costs about the same as CCI Stingers or 9mm handgun stuff - within 20% or so. so, it's not THAT big of a deal.
But at 32X or 50X how is the heat deformation when its hot ?
I forget to tell i consider a Falcon scope. My friend got one on his 308, i think its the model 5.5-25X, 1st focal plane. I tried it and liked it alot.
The optic and mechanic is really good. Can shot hole-in-hole all day long... so should be more than enough for a 22lr !!!
Its priced around 500 $ wich is pretty much the max money ill will spend for that riffle...
They got a 10-50X too if you interested ... XD
I forget to tell i consider a Falcon scope. My friend got one on his 308, i think its the model 5.5-25X, 1st focal plane. I tried it and liked it alot.
The optic and mechanic is really good. Can shot hole-in-hole all day long... so should be more than enough for a 22lr !!!
Its priced around 500 $ wich is pretty much the max money ill will spend for that riffle...
They got a 10-50X too if you interested ... XD
there's some mirage / heat waves, but so what? the target is still (physically), so you can 'visually' filter out the dancing and get a fairly accurate point. how, if the scope was a 40x and it's +36 outside and we're shooting over hot black pavement, then yeah it's a bit too weird.
Kawarthapine
Member
- Location
- Peterborough, Ontario
Anything in standard velocity if you are shooting targets. My pick for top end ammo is the Lapua tenex or RWS RIfle match.
Try remington target or CCI for cheap practice rou.
HIgh velocity rounds are too unpredictable and just waste my time unless I'm killing ground hogs.
Play around till u find what your barrel likes and buy in bulk with friends to keep your costs down.
Try remington target or CCI for cheap practice rou.
HIgh velocity rounds are too unpredictable and just waste my time unless I'm killing ground hogs.
Play around till u find what your barrel likes and buy in bulk with friends to keep your costs down.
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Nice looking rifle.
Some informal testing we did on one of the Sask shoots showed the CCI loads had a 200 fps spread. The bulk pack Federal 525 boxes had a spread of around 20 fps. And ammo can be greatly different from lot to lot as well, you just need to shoot alot of it to find what's going to be best.
Some informal testing we did on one of the Sask shoots showed the CCI loads had a 200 fps spread. The bulk pack Federal 525 boxes had a spread of around 20 fps. And ammo can be greatly different from lot to lot as well, you just need to shoot alot of it to find what's going to be best.
In my Savage Mark II "G" I run the cheapest I can find which generally are Winchester Xperts High Velocity. For a scope I just run a cheap Tasco Varmint 6-24x42.
I took a brand new shooter out. I put a round through dead center (granted this was only at 30 yards) but I told him to put a shot above and a shot below mine in a straight line but the shots had to be touching mine and sure as #### he did it!
I took a brand new shooter out. I put a round through dead center (granted this was only at 30 yards) but I told him to put a shot above and a shot below mine in a straight line but the shots had to be touching mine and sure as #### he did it!
