Good advice from daBear. I can't comment on your shop, but I have seen many other gun, bike, car shops recommend something they had in stock that was not the best choice to make a sale then and there instead of saying "sorry we don't have what you need today, you'll have to order it in or go somewhere else". Or a simple case of a salesperson not knowing about a certain product and just quessing at an answer instead of saying "I don't know".
Amount of Powder vs Books
- Thread starter DocBurN
- Start date
My advise to you would be to get some jacketed bullets for magnum loads & just keep the plated bullets for plinking loads. Full house .44 mag loads are only fun for a while. You will get more use out of your gun with lighter loads. Try to keep the plated bullets under 1200 fps & you should be OK with the plated bullets.
i use lead and berry's plated for max loads all the time, then again i may have figured out why i get hit in the face with something every now and then while shooting them.
someone told me it was gun powder, but that didn't make a whole lot of sense, flakes of plating or lead does. either way i will continue to use them with full house loads. (knocks on wood)
someone told me it was gun powder, but that didn't make a whole lot of sense, flakes of plating or lead does. either way i will continue to use them with full house loads. (knocks on wood)
I load the 240gn Berry's for my Deagle and I have found that compared to Hornaday 240XTP bullets the Berry's need half a grain more powder to fully cycle the Deagle and load the next round. That means lower pressure to me. I also run a stiff crimp with a Lee crimp die and jackets hold up well. I have a recovered example around the house somewhere and if I can find it I will post a pic.
Running the Berry's at full bore pistol is no issue and I would not hesitate to do so with these plated bullets in a rifle. I cycle my loads through my Marlin 1894 as well and so far no problems other than accuracy in the rifle. I run Berry's plated bullets in my 45/70 and I am WELL over 1600fps on a few loads. With that said I would not expect them to perform on game as they tend the fracture upon impact with solid objects like rocks, steel or ice blocks. The lead under the plating is HARD.
Running the Berry's at full bore pistol is no issue and I would not hesitate to do so with these plated bullets in a rifle. I cycle my loads through my Marlin 1894 as well and so far no problems other than accuracy in the rifle. I run Berry's plated bullets in my 45/70 and I am WELL over 1600fps on a few loads. With that said I would not expect them to perform on game as they tend the fracture upon impact with solid objects like rocks, steel or ice blocks. The lead under the plating is HARD.
My experience with W296 is that it is not too consistant.That is, five shot groups ran up to, or even over, an extreme spread of 100 fps. In a 7 1/2 inch Ruger Super Blackhawk with the Keith bullet weighing 265 grains I got 1358 average with 24.5 grains, and a spread of 96. Another group, same charge, gave 1323 and 103 spread.
Going down to 22 grains of W296 gave 1188 with 96 spread.
20 grains gave 1126 with 198 spread.
For heavy loads, 2400 powder gave more power was much more consistant. The absolute maximum load is 22 grains and that gave me 1415 with a spread of 68.
I loaded 2400 down, 20 grains gave 1312 and 41 spread.
17.5 grains gave 1120 with 45 spread.
and down at 15 grains it was 965 and 105 spread. Obviously too low a charge for efficiency.
To use all those plated bullets you could get W231. It is a very fast powdeer for the 44 magnum and extreme care must be used to prevent a double charge. A maximum load is only 8.2 grains of W231, and that gave me a velocity of 1018, with an extreme spread of only 17 fps. Thus, it should be very accurate and easy to shoot, but a double charge would turn the gun into a hand grenade.
If you buy powder for those bullets, a good choice would be Unique and not as touchy as W231.
Going down to 22 grains of W296 gave 1188 with 96 spread.
20 grains gave 1126 with 198 spread.
For heavy loads, 2400 powder gave more power was much more consistant. The absolute maximum load is 22 grains and that gave me 1415 with a spread of 68.
I loaded 2400 down, 20 grains gave 1312 and 41 spread.
17.5 grains gave 1120 with 45 spread.
and down at 15 grains it was 965 and 105 spread. Obviously too low a charge for efficiency.
To use all those plated bullets you could get W231. It is a very fast powdeer for the 44 magnum and extreme care must be used to prevent a double charge. A maximum load is only 8.2 grains of W231, and that gave me a velocity of 1018, with an extreme spread of only 17 fps. Thus, it should be very accurate and easy to shoot, but a double charge would turn the gun into a hand grenade.
If you buy powder for those bullets, a good choice would be Unique and not as touchy as W231.
To come back to the Book part of the thread.. is there a world of difference between my Hornady 4th edition and the newly released 8th edition ? worth upgrading ? I hope i can trust the 4th edition regarding .44 magnum
BTW: called the reloader shop of those Berrys plated... asking for Jacketed HPs.. he told me.. meh.. everyone shoot those Berry with magnum load and JHP cost too much
BTW: called the reloader shop of those Berrys plated... asking for Jacketed HPs.. he told me.. meh.. everyone shoot those Berry with magnum load and JHP cost too much
When times were leaner I shot plated out a 38super loaded to a PF just shy of 185. No problem.
Edit to add: the real benifit of upgrading manuals is the newer manuals have data for the latest powders. The older powders listed won't have change much, if at all.
Edit to add: the real benifit of upgrading manuals is the newer manuals have data for the latest powders. The older powders listed won't have change much, if at all.
Thank you for the info.. and to me.. all powders are new powders but i can at least trust my hornady lyman books
