cant_rope_the_wind01
CGN Regular
- Location
- West central Alberta
what is aneiling orwhat does the term mean???
or is there another term forit ???
or is there another term forit ???
aneiling??????
- Thread starter cant_rope_the_wind01
- Start date
reflexzero
Regular
- Location
- Langdon, AB
Annealing.
It's used to heat treat metal, and in the case of ammo, the neck of the brass to soften it after being hardened by several trips through the resizing die.
There are several ways to do it, and not all of them work very well. the trick is to only apply the heat to the neck of the brass, while using some sort of heat sink to prevent the rest of the brass from heating up to the point where brass starts to be affected by heat
Overheating is very bad, underheating.. usually doesn't do anything.
Check out some info here www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
It's used to heat treat metal, and in the case of ammo, the neck of the brass to soften it after being hardened by several trips through the resizing die.
There are several ways to do it, and not all of them work very well. the trick is to only apply the heat to the neck of the brass, while using some sort of heat sink to prevent the rest of the brass from heating up to the point where brass starts to be affected by heat
Overheating is very bad, underheating.. usually doesn't do anything.
Check out some info here www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
cant_rope_the_wind01
CGN Regular
- Location
- West central Alberta
that is a very informative and interesting read thankyou very much
This works well on cases like the .223. Get a flat bottom pan like a cake pan. Set about 10-15 cases upright. Fill pan with water almost to the cartridge shoulder. Take your handy propane torch and heat the neck until it turns color.(some say red some say blue) Flick it over into the water and continue until you have done all the cases. Repeat process. I used to do this when I used a Ruger mini-14. I reloaded those same cases many times and this seemed to keep the necks from splitting. Auto-loaders are hard on cases. My mini-14 always dented the case mouth on ejection so when you resized the case the neck and case mouth were getting extra stretching.
kokanee king
Regular
- Location
- Didsbury, Alberta
LOL.........and here i thought he was asking about analing 
I just finished my first attempt and I think it turned out good. I had about 600 brass that had been reloaded 1-5 times for my 204. My winter project is to have these all prepped for when my barrel arrives and I begin load development in anticipation of spring gopher season.
I had a few with dented shoulders from excessive case lube that I had set aside as well as one split neck and a couple other damaged ones that I put in the discard pile. I used these to test my technique on and when I was confident I had it figured out I annealed them all.
I used a 650 F Temp stick to mark the test ones (marked on top of shoulder out of flame path) and counted the seconds in the flame before the marking melted. I held the cartridge in a socket rotated by a cordless drill and heated with a propane torch. They averaged 8 seconds in the flame, as I became accustomed to what color/shade changed I adjusted time in the flame accordingly, some needed 10 seconds while others were done at 5 seconds. Being a welder makes my eyes a bit more accustomed to seeing minute color changes as heat is applied, but with plenty of practice brass you should be able to tell the heat you need. Just be sure to do it in a dark room otherwise it will be to late to observe the color change
The tempstick marks very poorly on the smooth brass casing so it is not practical to mark every single case. I don't need each one to be perfect but a benchrest shooter may want to uses Tempilaq from an supplier such as Brownells which is better suited for individual marking.
I then dumped them the kitchen sink, (being single has a few perks) and when done I put them all in my media separator tray over a register in the house, by morning they were dry.
I did them in batches of 200 and it took a couple hours with interuptions. This was my first try so I am no expert but I am pleased with results.
Do a search as this topic has been discussed in depth on this forum as well as others. I read lots then chose my techinque.
Good luck
I had a few with dented shoulders from excessive case lube that I had set aside as well as one split neck and a couple other damaged ones that I put in the discard pile. I used these to test my technique on and when I was confident I had it figured out I annealed them all.
I used a 650 F Temp stick to mark the test ones (marked on top of shoulder out of flame path) and counted the seconds in the flame before the marking melted. I held the cartridge in a socket rotated by a cordless drill and heated with a propane torch. They averaged 8 seconds in the flame, as I became accustomed to what color/shade changed I adjusted time in the flame accordingly, some needed 10 seconds while others were done at 5 seconds. Being a welder makes my eyes a bit more accustomed to seeing minute color changes as heat is applied, but with plenty of practice brass you should be able to tell the heat you need. Just be sure to do it in a dark room otherwise it will be to late to observe the color change
The tempstick marks very poorly on the smooth brass casing so it is not practical to mark every single case. I don't need each one to be perfect but a benchrest shooter may want to uses Tempilaq from an supplier such as Brownells which is better suited for individual marking.
I then dumped them the kitchen sink, (being single has a few perks) and when done I put them all in my media separator tray over a register in the house, by morning they were dry.
I did them in batches of 200 and it took a couple hours with interuptions. This was my first try so I am no expert but I am pleased with results.
Do a search as this topic has been discussed in depth on this forum as well as others. I read lots then chose my techinque.
Good luck
I did around 200 .308 brass using the propane tourch method
and believe the rusults were in my favor when I was done.
I didn't use a drill but, held the case head in my fingers
with a soggy wet shop cloth. Dunked the brass at the first signs
of color change. The case head always stayed cool, that was never
a problem.
I think tho, I will only do this on expensive brass. I don't mind starting
new after I've reached 4-5 loads with one piece.
Cheers
p.s. if anyone hasn't watched Surfclod's video of .204 vs. pigeon. . . , do that!
and believe the rusults were in my favor when I was done.
I didn't use a drill but, held the case head in my fingers
with a soggy wet shop cloth. Dunked the brass at the first signs
of color change. The case head always stayed cool, that was never
a problem.
I think tho, I will only do this on expensive brass. I don't mind starting
new after I've reached 4-5 loads with one piece.
Cheers
p.s. if anyone hasn't watched Surfclod's video of .204 vs. pigeon. . . , do that!
