I have seldom annealed cases. Just did it when forming cases into new calibers.
My son has re-barrelled his rifle and will have to develop a new load. All of his brass (700 pieces) will have to be full length sized to fit the new chamber.
I load for him. On the last loading I noticed erratic neck tensions. Cases had been reloaded 5 times. I made a not that I should either anneal the cases or buy new brass.
I suggest he buy 500 new Lapua Palma cases. He thinks he would rather save the money and use the Lapua and Norma cases he already has.
I will trim them all to a common length, mouth champfer them all and then anneal. The only tool I have is a butane torch.
If I turn the case neck/shoulder in the flame until I feel heat in the case head, is that about right? And then drop it in water.
Don't know if it makes a difference but I do all case prep after a spent hull is annealed.
Using a single propane torch on a 1 lb canister, put the case in the appropriate sized socket and spin slowly with a drill motor. For most cases except 223, I put case in flame for 8 seconds, in my normal cadence of counting this takes the count of 13, then pick case out of socket with bare fingers and place case in a cookie sheet on top of a wet tea towel, this allows me to continue with case prep with no waiting time to dry cases out.
As in the video ,you do not want to see any 'sparkles' from the brass during the process. I also do not want to burn the accumulated carbon out from inside the neck. This method , while slower than a machine and dual torch set up, provides desirable results. I also do this method on new cases that are going to be formed into a wildcat.
I use to anneal every time but now going several firings between annealing in the thoughts that the brass needs to be worked a bit to gain even more consistency, using 2 or 3 times fired for tightest groups. Still not enough evidence to support this however.


















































