Annealing brass cases

crazy_davey

crazy_davey

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I have been reading up and trying to learn about this subject(playing a bit as well). Lots of different opinions out there on this subject and would like to hear what you guys do.

What do CGN do as far as annealing cases? Know of any good websites or articles to read as far as this subject goes?

Opinions on the subject would be great to hear...

Thanks!

I did a search but didnt come up with much.
 
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crazy_davey said:
I have been reading up and trying to learn about this subject(playing a bit as well). Lots of different opinions out there on this subject and would like to hear what you guys do.

What do CGN do as far as annealing cases? Know of any good websites or articles to read as far as this subject goes?

Opinions on the subject would be great to hear...

Thanks!

I did a search but didnt come up with much.
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Dave, I use the eyeball, but if you want to get off to a garaunteed start rather than scrapping a bunch first, get yourself a 650 degree templestic. Use the templestic to put a smudge just behind the shoulder. Heat shoulder with propane torch till the smudge goes shiney (melting), dunk in water..For best results I have found that holding them horizontally while slowly rotating with a variable speed drill works best to get even heat. I just use one of those cheap lee gismos in the chuck to hold em..If you want to try it by eye do the exact same operation with the very tip of the flame held just behind the shoulder of the rotating brass (shiney brass so you can see the colors) watch close, the very mouth will turn straw,then blue, and in about two seconds the straw color will run back to just behind the shoulder,quickly dunk as before. That will be very close to 650 degrees at the shoulder..No red, not even dull red, they'll probably frost up if they get that warm...But honestly I would go the templestic route to start.Shows you exactly what your looking for
 
Bearcat said:
Annealing in a room with low light is a good idea so you can see the color changes better too.
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I'm curious why the low light. Given you dont want the appearance buyond blue at any stage? I get the impression your going into the reds. I think you'll find that to warm for brass
 
You anneal the case neck and shoulder, only. Not the whole case. Stand the cases in a pan of water up to just below the shoulder. Heat with a regular propane torch until the brass changes colour and tip it over. There's no need to go to red or blue hot.
 
sunray said:
You anneal the case neck and shoulder, only. Not the whole case. Stand the cases in a pan of water up to just below the shoulder. Heat with a regular propane torch until the brass changes colour and tip it over. There's no need to go to red or blue hot.
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True enough on the neck and shoulder,and a tad back of the shoulder is ok. I've found that without rotation, or if I tipped them allowing one side to hit first I was not getting evenness so if I blew anything major out like 375 H&H to lott I had a significant case length difference (not equal around the entire mouth). I found that by rotating then dipping vertically I ended up with cases worked equally,ie the same length around the whole case. I just felt better about that. Lots of professional bench shooters have rotary tables just for the job,cause consistant case capacity afterward is important to them. Its also why I suggested the templestic until you get the heck of it. Right foot or wrong foot,start the race however
 
I used the torch method and holding the case in my fingers to ensure the case head did not over heat, but as blindside pointed out, consistency is not what I would of hoped it would be. The dipping in molten lead technique discussed here a while back intrigues me, and I intend to try that next time I anneal my .375 Ultra brass. I believe this should produce more consistent results than the torch method.
 
A good indicator for annealling aluminum is to mark it with a sharpie marker and heat it until the mark dissapears. Should be about the same temp as required to anneal brass, but I admit to not having tried it.

It's the first thing I will try when I have a need.

Cheers
Trev
 
The dipping in molten lead technique discussed here a while back intrigues me, and I intend to try that next time I anneal my .375 Ultra brass. I believe this should produce more consistent results than the torch method.
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A propane torch is pretty much manditory for annealing brass. Lead bullet alloys melt in the 350 C range, this is no where near the energy (temperature) required to intitiate the recrystalization (annealing) process in brass. The recrystalization of work hardened brass does not substantially progess until the 600 C temp. range is reached, and then it is a time/temperature relationship; less time at temp. requires higher temps.
For our quick annealing requirements, a 650 C temp. will be required (neck only) for practical results.
 
thecollector said:
A propane torch is pretty much manditory for annealing brass. Lead bullet alloys melt in the 350 C range, this is no where near the energy (temperature) required to intitiate the recrystalization (annealing) process in brass. The recrystalization of work hardened brass does not substantially progess until the 600 C temp. range is reached, and then it is a time/temperature relationship; less time at temp. requires higher temps.
For our quick annealing requirements, a 650 C temp. will be required (neck only) for practical results.
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When I first heard talk of this I knew the lead was a lot lower melt temp, but I mean when I cast bullets I go hotter than the lowest temp req'd, so I thought that by somw source of magic this is what they were doing..Good to be getting these bugs worked out. I know what I've been doing since I dont remember when. Now I read on sites that its the accepted norm, so I'm stayin where I am. Torch and 650
 
Hornady markets an annealing kit......with holders (to spin brass) and 475 degree tempilaq. Holders chuck into a cordless screwdriver. I turn em in the flame of a free standing propane torch. Then drop into water.


Some believe this too low temp......may be, but has worked well for me.....I have 50BMG brass been around 15 reloads, annealing every 5 to this temp. (had to homemake larger holder)

My .02
 
crazy_davey said:
Thanks! I read all that stuff before I posted. I like to hear personal experiance on some subjects, the internet is a whacky place sometimes :runaway: :D
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The internet sure aint what it used to be. Doing general searches now I find can just run you in circles
 
WithoutWarning said:
Ok, just to clear up some confusion (mostly on my part),
we're all talking in degrees with relation to "C", NOT "F" rite..?
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Sorry thats farenheit. If your going to get a templestic,the last time I saw them they were marked both C & F
 
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