Annealing machines

Chinbullco

Chinbullco

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NW Alberta
Looking for advice from shooters that have purchased or made cartridge case annealing machines. What works, what doesn't, and issues with heat build-up on drive systems. They all look fine on their u-tube presentations, but opinions from users would be welcome. Cartridges range from 22 PPC to 416 / 338 LM.

Does anyone anneal case necks before outside neck turning? Have problems with 243 WSSM (0.264" NK) splitting necks on first firing with as little as .001" neck clearance.
 
rotary annealers all work on the same principle. locate the flame so the necks are exposed for long enough to reach proper temp.

A very nice looking rig is available in Canada. Contact Roberti11 on this board.

I can offer you the Bench source unit. Other makes are available and I did a review on really nice set up - article on my website.

I made my own using a BBQ rotisserie motor and a metal stove top cover. Drill holes in an accurate pattern around the cover, spin it with the motor, add heat and enjoy.

Process is easy, key is keeping the time in flame consistent and accurate.

Jerry
 
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.243 WSSM necks are prone to splitting.
An experienced Tr shooter was telling me he anneales his cases in a water bath in the oven. I have not tried this.
 
That was my thought also, hence having never trying it.
My plan initially was to try and get a bunch of guys from our PRA to buy a machien together. Annealing seams like an off season project for sure.
 
GIGGIDY said:
how does one know when enough heat has been used, I have read just enough to turn the brass to a different colour, is this correct?
Click to expand...

You use special paints that melt at different temperature and paint them on a test piece of brass to ensure the proper temperature. Not sure what the paints are or where you get them.
 
I've been spinning my cases in a drill under a torch for about 8 seconds. I'm not sure if I'm making a difference. I know I'm not over doing it though because the cases (243) just keep going. It would be great to have a simple low cost unit to ensure consistency.
 
The goal is the reach 750F for "enough" time. That amount of time is a bit of trial and error depending on your alloy and how hard the brass is to begin with.

I monitor temp using Tempilac crayon 650F rubbed under the shoulder. I infer that the neck temp is 'hotter' when my crayon flashes off. Then I play with that timing until I get a nice feel when I size the cases.

Doesn't have to be perfect, just consistent. Better to be a little under then over annealed.

colour change is a lousy way to monitor annealing. I have some Win brass that turns all shades of purple and grey. Beautiful. Just did another lot and there was far less colour change.

Did some Fed at the same time and there was NO colour change at all.

I like to anneal my necks every 3 to 4 firings so do it all season long.

YMMV.

Jerry

[youtube]OaXzARG5Qz0&feature=related[/youtube]
 
I've had a Bench Source for about a year now and find it is excellent and I can do cases up to 338 Lapua without a second case disk. If I wanted to do 50 BMG, the disk costs less that $50.00.
 
As Mystic said, the basic principle is to get reproducible and controlled heating of the neck and sparing the rest of the brass from heating. The different annealer designs are just different ways to accomplish this, with all of these you still have to use Tempilaq to tell you if the neck of brass has reached the correct temp. I initally used Tempilaq 750 and 800 on the shoulder and adjusted my flames so that the 750 would melt and the 800 would not, after several thousand cases (myself and friends) I have found that i can get good results by using 700 and 750, I aim to melt the 700 and not the 750. For smaller cases I use two propane torches (blue bottle), but for larger cases I find that one propane and one MAPP gas (yellow bottle) works best.

Below are some video's showing the annealer that I designed for my own use, they are available for sale if anyone is interested...


This is a long video and is actually the instructional video for the Grizzly Rotary Annealer. Below this are shorter video's showing the first generation annealer.

[youtube]Uldy8tQ0oII[/youtube]


Shorter version of video but with first generation unit.

[youtube]7n6_w3bwq_I [/youtube]
[youtube]Kl1amCv3xo8 [/youtube]

Annealer with extension busings for long cases such as 338 Lapua Magnum

[youtube]DbOfHWCvnP8[/youtube]
 
Tempilaq

I made something similar to the setup Hornady sells and used Tempilaq (the brush on type) for temperature control. I found it very difficult to tell when the tempilaq actually melted, it just seemed to turn black even with case necks bright red. I gave up on using the Tempilaq. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
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