Annealing temperature?

[BattleRife]

I've been using the process I described for decades and never had a case failure.

This part, I believe.

From your previous post:

When I re anneal a case, I do the whole case in a cake pan, in my oven at home.

I turn the oven to its maximum setting and place a pan full of cartridge cases onto the rack.

I leave the cartridges in the rack at the highest temperature for 15 minutes to completely normalize, take them out of the oven and immediately dump them into a sink full of cold water.

As previously pointed out, the dump into the sink has no metallurgical effect, so what you are really doing is heating your brass to the maximum temperature of your oven for 15 minutes. Most household ovens max out around 500°F (260°C), which is very close to the final full case heat treatment that is given to brass right after the flash hole and headstamp are punched (usually cited as 250°C). The purpose of this heat treatment is to relieve some of the stresses in the head without significantly lowering the hardness / strength. This greatly reduces the probability of cracks occurring in the case head during storage, while still leaving the head strong enough to withstand firing. You are doing the same thing, though depending on how hot your oven can get you may be flirting with starting to lower the strength of your cases. Also it's not considered hot enough to fully eliminate the risk of neck cracking. But if it hasn't been a problem after many years of doing it, well I guess the proof is in.

 

[MartyK2500]

This thread reminds me how complicated annealing was for me in the past.
For those that haven’t got any other hobbies other than shooting/reloading, the AMP MKll sure takes a lot of trouble/guessing out of annealing.

 

[BattleRife]

If all you want is a comfort process, where you have no understanding of what just happened but it makes you feel better, virtually all of the annealing techniques can satisfy that. Trying to understand what is actually going on in the process is inherently more complicated, probably more so with the AMP than with any other.

 

[6MT]

...here we go

I do enjoy the playful banter that comes with a good annealing thread

 

[Kelly Timoffee]

If all you want is a comfort process, where you have no understanding of what just happened but it makes you feel better, virtually all of the annealing techniques can satisfy that. Trying to understand what is actually going on in the process is inherently more complicated, probably more so with the AMP than with any other.

Well let's get'r done, this is a sharing of resources not condemnation of others techniques.

 

[todbartell]

This thread reminds me how complicated annealing was for me in the past.
For those that haven’t got any other hobbies other than shooting/reloading, the AMP MKll sure takes a lot of trouble/guessing out of annealing.

Yeah, no kidding! I love my AMP. Perfect results and my 5 year old son loves to push the button! haha

 

[SuperCub]

If the neck glows in ambient light, it is too hot!! Dave.

I turn the lights off and heat to a dull red with a propane torch. Neck and shoulder. Did 150 in the last two days.

 

[SuperCub]

Good reads ......

https://www.handloadermagazine.com/annealing-rifle-brass

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...ue/Re_re_quenching_after_annealin#Post4503090

 

[johnl]

Google ballistic-recreations.ca. Awesome piece of kit.

 

[yomomma]

Google ballistic-recreations.ca. Awesome piece of kit.

Still slow... Just build one, easy to do and cheaper.

 

[Buckmastr]

I guess I'm stupid but I do mine in a fairly dark room twirling with my fingers. Once I see the colour start to change I pull away and I count the seconds for each brass make. Federal takes the least amount of time and others vary. So far it seems to be working for me. Anywhere from 4 or 5 seconds up to a max of 8 seconds depending on make. I learned this method from a website in Australia. Certainly not perfect but the cost is minimal. If I lose the odd one I don't really care but so far it seems to be working well.

Yes^^

I only anneal if I get split necks. Otherwise work hardened brass sizes and shoots accurately for me. Based on my unscientific results there is no need to anneal cases as a routine.

 

[MartyK2500]

If all you want is a comfort process, where you have no understanding of what just happened but it makes you feel better, virtually all of the annealing techniques can satisfy that. Trying to understand what is actually going on in the process is inherently more complicated, probably more so with the AMP than with any other.

Well that’s the thing exactly, do we really NEED to know what’s going on?
Most annealers are long range precision rifle shooters.
There is so much to understand and to study as it is, I don’t know why I would need to understand the deep notions of brass metallurgy when I can just press the easy button and study stuff like wind instead?

 

[MartyK2500]

Google ballistic-recreations.ca. Awesome piece of kit.

Reminds me of this article made by Alex from AMP bashing Ballistic Recreations.
We’ll never know if he’s telling the truth, or just treatened by another easy annealing method that’s just way cheaper.

An unbiased legitimate study on this would be nice.

Personally I had purchased it and resold it to get my AMP.
I wasn’t a fan of molten salts in my finished basement, and don’t have a garage.

https://www.ampannealing.com/articles/52/salt-bath-annealing--does-it-work-/