Annealing

Check out ButterBeans Barstool on u toobe. Interesting points from a redneck who really does know. He is honest about himself.
If your doing it for neck tension, you need to be really really consistent. Otherwise invest in a neck tension mandrel set. that's the key IMO
I anneal for case life not neck tension. I anneal every case before sizing/loading regardless if it's a new case. Any tension benefits are lost when using a seating and crimp type die. I use a separate crimp die for uniform process. Just my opinion. Cheers
 
From my experience, you won’t know how well/consistently your cases are annealed until you go to resize them. I was using a propane torch setup (burst fire) and I thought it was great. Upgraded to an induction annealer (quick anneal) and my shoulder bump was dead on consistent. Was getting +\- 2 thousands with propane.
 
From Peterson brass Web site : 👍 RJ

15. Mouth and Neck Anneal​

To the right we have displayed a casing after it has received its mouth and neck anneal. Annealing the mouth and neck of each casing is important to ensure the casing “grabs” the projectile correctly and releases the projectile uniformly when the casing is fired. Our machinery utilizes induction annealing rather than flame annealing. Unlike flame annealing, while using induction annealing, we are able to control the temperature, applied to each casing, to the degree.
 

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Like butcherbill for sharing the video's.
Good info, i do my anneaaling lights off.
Flash light in hand ofcourse. Lol

Easier to see the heat transfer . I use a cheap spinning type annealer and torch.
Have fun gunnie.
Watch for primers..haha
 
270WSMXBolt said:
Check out ButterBeans Barstool on u toobe. Interesting points from a redneck who really does know. He is honest about himself.
If your doing it for neck tension, you need to be really really consistent. Otherwise invest in a neck tension mandrel set. that's the key IMO
I anneal for case life not neck tension. I anneal every case before sizing/loading regardless if it's a new case. Any tension benefits are lost when using a seating and crimp type die. I use a separate crimp die for uniform process. Just my opinion. Cheers
Click to expand...
I use a MANDREL on every case before i seat a bullet - That way you catch that odd one thats not just right - JMO RJ
 
Made a wood stand to hold torches and cases, got the idea from the below YouTube video. Haven’t had a chance to use it yet but it should work well enough, I’m sure some fine tuning will be needed to get torch heads in the right angle etc once I actually use it.

It’s all from leftover scrap plywood or metal I had in the shop, only thing I bought was the torch heads.

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Fairly straight forward build, I like it. I watched the attached video and saw the guy had shims made of an old cutting board for adjusting height for different cases, have you got an adjustment idea in mind for yours?
 
DiMP said:
Fairly straight forward build, I like it. I watched the attached video and saw the guy had shims made of an old cutting board for adjusting height for different cases, have you got an adjustment idea in mind for yours?
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Shims as well, set it up for .308 without a shim but have a wood shim to bring .223 case up a touch. Seems like .303 and X54r might line up with the .308 height.

I feel like the notch at the torch head will get cut to fine tune torch angle and a block with velcro like in the video at the base of the gas bottle will be a good idea.

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Am building a similar torch annealer but am going to trey a couple different things
one being to angle the flames more forward toward the neck mouth, thinking less heat to the body, idk
also going to use an elec driver to spin the brass slowly

first try, the flames were far too close and too hot, the temp change went critical too fast
when the flame turns orange, the brass is well toasted :(
 
Hand held induction annealing is what I stumbled across on YouTube. The parts required excluding the extension cord sell as a kit on Amazon. Pictured cases are at 2.0 seconds each. Time can be adjusted in .001 increments. A little trial and error for duration and every brand/calibre is definitely different. Seems to be working well and very fast and easy.
 

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Butcherbill said:
Made a wood stand to hold torches and cases, got the idea from the below YouTube video. Haven’t had a chance to use it yet but it should work well enough, I’m sure some fine tuning will be needed to get torch heads in the right angle etc once I actually use it.

It’s all from leftover scrap plywood or metal I had in the shop, only thing I bought was the torch heads.

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I built one very similar to this but the residual heat coming off the sides of the flames caught it on fire after a few mins 😂.
I hope you have better success than mine did.
 
156821 said:
I built one very similar to this but the residual heat coming off the sides of the flames caught it on fire after a few mins 😂.
I hope you have better success than mine did.
Click to expand...
Mine works well, the flames don’t get anywhere near the plywood. I did a couple small adjustments to make the base of the bottles more secure but so far it works as intended.
 
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