Annealing?

Terry Perkins

Terry Perkins

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
84   0   0
Location
Bruce County
I have hundreds of Lapua brass that has been fired up to 9 times. This brass is not cheap. I am considering annnealing them. What is the best way to anneal them so that they're all the same consistency? Is the Tempilaq that Hornady offers worthy?

Terry Perkins
 
You're just going to do the necks.

Deprime, stand cases in water to just below the shoulder, heat to a dull red with a propane torch and then flip into the water.

You may find that it isn't worth the effort.

RePete.
 
Repete is correct..

In common cartridges, anneaing isn't wortht e effort unless you have more time than me..and I dont' havbe alot of time, so I may not be the best eprson to ask.;)

YOu can also hold them in you r hand (by the base area) and hold them in a candle or bunsen brner until they get too hot to hold, then drop them in water or a wet cloth.
 
RePete said:
You're just going to do the necks.

Deprime, stand cases in water to just below the shoulder, heat to a dull red with a propane torch and then flip into the water.

You may find that it isn't worth the effort.

RePete.
Click to expand...

The only time I've bothered is when blowing out a neck say from 348 to 45..For standard useage you will be dissapointed on the return vs time even for expensive brass IMO
 
I recently became interested in this process for my .375 Ultra brass. What got me going on it was a chapter in the A-Square manual claiming that as the neck of a cartridge work hardened from repeated reloadings that bullet pull weight increased resulting in higher pressures. It takes little time to do, so I gave it a try. I ruined a couple of cases with too much heat, but it didn't take long to catch on to the proper techniuque. I also discovered I had to be more careful when crimping so as not to set back the shoulder.
 
My biggest fear in trying this is consistancy. I see it as a toss up between losing cases due to work hardening vs ruining them by increasing the case to case difference in neck tension.
 
I heard you can buy a crayon from boc gas (welding supplier) that will start to melt when you hit a certain temperature. When this happens you just knock the case over in to the water. It adds consistency to the process.
 
doc25 said:
I heard you can buy a crayon from boc gas (welding supplier) that will start to melt when you hit a certain temperature. When this happens you just knock the case over in to the water. It adds consistency to the process.
Click to expand...

They, indeed are called TempliSticks, but you do need to know what temp you need, because they come in different temps.

I first used them in 1980, but now I'm using the IR ones.

RePete.
 
Tempilaq is what I have tried and had no success with.

I've found a way that works fairly well and it involves the usual water pan - deep, a propane torch, a semi dark room, a battery (cordless) drill and a case holder that chucks a case easily.

I chuck the case, and start up the drill so the case is rotating. I bring the neck into the tip of the flame while rotating and immediately start a 1000....2000 count until I start to get some color change in the neck. I then quickly immerse the case (keep the drill out of the water) into cool water "while still spinning." Takes some practice but it seems to work well. Case heads on .221 Rem remain cool enough not to be heat affected. Be careful not too over heat the case....

I never like the stand in pan, tip over concept......

Its also been awhile since I've done this so the exact details aren't there....

Of course, nice shinny new Lapua brass is always, especially under the Christmas tree this time of year. wink wink;)
 
I do it the way 103159 outlined. The case holder and adapter to put in a hand drill is made by Lee, and Wholesale Sports now stocks these. This is probably the simplest method for annealing.
 
IR is a good idea as long as you catch the timing right, although I don't think I'll be rushing out to purchase one. Maybe a Flir camera - :)
 
Beg to differ on the annealing bieng a wste of time fellas. In my 1K BR shooting my 6.5-284 starts to show vertical spreading after a few loads. I then anneal with an old turn table and a propane torch. Heat the necks as they turn in a dark room. When the neck begins to show color I tip them off into a pail of water. Neck tension now all the same the groups are nice and round again.
5shot3.836.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom