Another JB weld as a bedding material thread

bill c68

bill c68

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I tried bedding a Win 70 in a synthetic stock this weekend.
I used JB weld and roughed up the stock with a dremel, punched some small holes here and there for the compound to "bite". I also used gun oil as a release agent.
I did the same process a while back with a wood stock and used some 10 minute steel eopxy from Lepage, worked ok.
With this project, I was shocked at how difficult it was to get the action out of the stock and to my surprise the JB separated from the plastic stock AND stuck to the very oily metal! I oryed the blob of JB from the bbl (first inch of bbl) and it popped off, I slid it back into the stock to see how it fit in and now it is stuck in the stock! It fit in like a puzzle piece and won't come out! which is fine I guess as I wanted it there to begin with.
 
I wouldn't trust oil as a release agent. I, too, like paste wax. Have used JB as a bedding agent, nothing to complain about.
 
I've used JB Weld as a bedding compound for years and find it works. The release agent that works well for me is a spray on. LPS dry film PTFE lubricant #02616 sold by Acklands.
 
604shooter said:
I've used PAM as a release agent, but only use Johnson's Paste Wax now. The only problem with Johnson's is finding the stuff.
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Did the pam work ok?

What is Johnston's paste wax? Car stuff?

I have to re bed around the recoil lug, so would love to try something better.

Also any advice on making the JB stick to the plastic? more roughing up might be in order!
 
bill c68 said:
Did the pam work ok?

What is Johnston's paste wax? Car stuff?

I have to re bed around the recoil lug, so would love to try something better.

Also any advice on making the JB stick to the plastic? more roughing up might be in order!
Click to expand...

JB should stick to plastic. Sounds like you need to degrease the stock a bit harder.
 
I would be concerned about oil as a release agent contaminating the epoxy. I use a thin film of clear shoes polish (just soft wax) as a release agent.

To get more "bite" on plastic use a round burr on your Dremel and drill a bunch of little holes at a variety of angles so when the epoxy flows in to them you have mechanical bond rather than just adhesion.
 
I've experienced the same thing when some JB weld ran onto a spot that was "protected" only by oil. It stuck. As above, where I used Kiwi shoe polish it released.
 
604shooter said:
I've used PAM as a release agent, but only use Johnson's Paste Wax now. The only problem with Johnson's is finding the stuff.
Click to expand...

Yes indeed! Not available in Canada at all nowadays as far as I can see. I finally found it in Lowe's in Bellingham. Until then I used Kiwi shoe polish.

(bill C68- you must be a young fella if you don't know what JPW is. It was popular back when housewives used to buff and polish the floors :eek:)

I used JB to glass-bed my Husky 46 and it worked very well. As I recall I also used PC Epoxy Metal Putty for the actual recoil shoulder. Sets up VERY fast but produced a perfect fit.

:) Stuart
 
josquin said:
(bill C68- you must be a young fella if you don't know what JPW is. It was popular back when housewives used to buff and polish the floors :eek:)
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The only thing my wife buffs and polishes is...... ah nevermind. Not too old yet, 34.

I guess i will have to get some shoe polish... I might even have some.
I bet bees wax would work (the soft stuff for waterproofing boots), but i am not going to experiment, I'll go with what is proven.
 
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762shooter said:
To get more "bite" on plastic use a round burr on your Dremel and drill a bunch of little holes at a variety of angles so when the epoxy flows in to them you have mechanical bond rather than just adhesion.
Click to expand...

Did that, and like I said earlier, when I stuck the dislodged "blob" back in, it stuck in there (mechanically) and is not moving. I think the only reason I got the action out of the stock was the stock was flexible enough to allow the little nubs to pop out of their holes.
Maybe next time I will put some little screws in there as well, that should bite real good!
 
bill c68 said:
Did the pam work ok?

What is Johnston's paste wax? Car stuff?

I have to re bed around the recoil lug, so would love to try something better.

Also any advice on making the JB stick to the plastic? more roughing up might be in order!
Click to expand...

Actually, I was very surprised at how well PAM worked. The action released with little effort. Johnsons is a floor polish. It's a ##### to find around here, but I was fortunate to have someone graciously send a tin up from the U.S. I expect this tin to last a very long time.

As for roughening up the stock, I took a dremel to the 2 plastic stocks I did and put some really deep dimples into them.
 
I also use JB Weld to bed scopes in to rings. It results in a perfect fit without having to abrade the ring. You can remove it with a little heat and then fit the ring to another scope/rifle.
 
lineofsight said:
..The steel bed, marine tex... usually found at home depot, marine store or?.
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Steel Bed is a Brownell's product. Hunter's Sporting Goods (in "VERY north White Rock" :)) might have it, or Reliable G&T in Vancouver. Not sure about MarineTex. JB Weld in the big tubes (5 oz?) I got at Lordco. Devcon Plastic Steel putty is also apparently very good, but avail. only in 1 lb. tubs, from industrial suppliers such as Acklands-Grainger ($57.41/lb. according to their online catalogue.)

:) Stuart
 
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