Another stock build thread

Hi SouthPaw,

You need the barrel on to get it all straight in the stock, if you do it with another barrel you need to check on a surface plate (or equiv) that the barrel is straight and then assume that the new one will be when installed. Almost all factory barrels are crooked (actions especially) sometimes by a large amount. That is why Rems have the bedding point in the forend of the stock, to force everything to line up and look good, nothing to do with accuracy! .125 will be okay to fill with epoxy. I always make short pillars to extend the holes from the bottom of the bedding block to the bottom of the stock. Leave long (but not through the stock) then countersink or counterbore the front one to what type of screw you are using and mill the rear one when you inlet for your guard so it sits hard on the pillar. Neat way to do it and no escutcheons needed. Make the holes .25 and when finished ream them larger for clearance.
 
While I was waiting for my barrel I decided to get the butt ready to inlet for my cheek piece riser. So here we have the profile cut:
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And here we have the cheek piece separated.
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And good news, my barrel came in the mail today! Now to bribe my gunsmith to put it on quickly :)
 
bobfortier said:
This is nice work. I do all my inletting with a Porter Cable router and jigs, so I envy the tools you have !
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Thanks! I've seen your work as well, so your kinds words are very much appreciated. I know how you feel with the router and jigs, that's how I did my last stock. It sure was a lot more chisel and rasp work than router work though, but still a lot of fun :)
 
Just a little more progress. I started shaping the grip area. I'm leaving the forestock square until I mill the spot in for the rail.

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Looks really nice but what caliber is it for? The stock looks kind of thin behind the grip.

I'd like to try something like this myself someday.
 
Just did a little bit more shaping along the butt of the rifle. It's starting to take the desired shape. Slow going with a rasp and a straight edge.

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There's still 1.5" left to cut off the butt, I just like to leave the excess on there as long as possible to avoid damaging the "real" end.
 
Looking real good. If you ever have to remove a lot of material in a short time, try a hand-held grinder with a 50 grit paper. This is how I shape my stocks.

Prepare for a dusty mess if you go that route
 
Hey Bob, I did try that once and it was a heck of a lot quicker. I was, however in my brothers workshop and not my basement, but it was a lot quicker! Oh man, could you imagine the noise that would be comin' outta the wife if I was doing that in the basement hahaha
 
Well tonight I got a few things done I've been putting off. First I cut out the channel under the forestock so I could install my Anschutz rail.

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Yay! It fits!

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Next I decided I better get started on my cheek piece hardware. The part that screws into the cheek piece itself is what I worked on tonight. Here's how that piece turned out. Next will be the clamp part that goes into the stock, more on that later.

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And finally, I needed a bipod stud adapter to use in my rail to mount my harris bipod. I got the shape of it milled out. I still have to put the set screw and the stud in it, but you get the idea :)

Got the square bar milled to the right thickness!
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And now it's milled to the desired T-shape!
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Making my own hardware!

Tonight I just had a small amount of time, so I made the cheek piece riser base plate. Got the holes drilled and the threaded holes in the side of the base for the bolts that lock things in place.

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Yup you can get 2 or 3 axis DRO for that mill. Costs about $600+ to get it. I would LOVE it though. Would certainly be better than counting revolutions on the handwheels :)
 
I'm finally starting to finish up this stock. Since I was hoping to be done this sooner, I decided to go with a tac pro cheek piece instead of the integral hardware. Once that cheek piece arrives I'll drill the holes for it. The stock is now cut to the proper length and rough sanded. Profiling is done. I just have a little work left on the trigger guard inletting, then I'll finish sanding, get some poly sprayed on and glue in my bedding block.

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Got my DIY tac pro cheek piece today. Very easy, just a couple minutes with the heat gun and it fits great (plus it's cheaper!). Had to work the butt of the stock a little to round it out, but this should work better I think.

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Very nice work! I've seen a few threads all very impressive, but where are you guys getting your wood/laminate. I've found 2 manufactures in the US that offer it Rutland & Cousineaus, but the shipping is more than the material, and being from the bargain province of Manitoba I find that hard to take.
 
cmass said:
Very nice work! I've seen a few threads all very impressive, but where are you guys getting your wood/laminate. I've found 2 manufactures in the US that offer it Rutland & Cousineaus, but the shipping is more than the material, and being from the bargain province of Manitoba I find that hard to take.
Click to expand...

pm RR on this forum if you need laminate.
 
Exactly how would I do that? you see my parents met at a family reunion and there was lots of banjos an stuff, you could say I'm computer illiterate, maybe I should be asking for tutorials.
 
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