anti-cant level

Anti cant

I also use the B-square from Brownells.
As it mounts on the rail, I can see it while my head is down at scope level.
At under $15 no complaints.
 
I've got a USO level that I got from Rick as well. Great little level.

I've also got an Angle Cosine Indicator and Anti Cant Device from Defensive Edge in the States. It too is nice and it replaces the top half of your rear scope ring. The only downside is that you have to use Nightforce rings - tough that's really no hardship, IMO.
 
I use scoplevels.
scoplevel_side_view.jpg

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I bought two sets of those, one 1" and the other 30mm. WHat I like about them is the fact that you can see the level while you are looking down the scope.

Brownells has them and they fold down and fit no problem on the scope.
 
ceriksson said:
I use scoplevels.
scoplevel_side_view.jpg

trans_image2.gif


I bought two sets of those, one 1" and the other 30mm. WHat I like about them is the fact that you can see the level while you are looking down the scope.

Brownells has them and they fold down and fit no problem on the scope.
Click to expand...

I found these to be rather cheaply made and the plastic "hinge" broke easily.
The 1s I brought in were a few years ago, have they changed??
The other Issue I found with these was that I had to move my head away from my cheek weld to see it, rather than simply looking through my other eye at a level that was rail mounted and in the same plane as the rifle.
 
Cheaply made yes I agree, but cheap as well.

I don't have to move at all to see it though. It is on the scope at a spot where it looks like it is just above the eyepiece
 
bingo1010 said:
the tall one in the above post does have the advantage of being really accurate though, a result of being high above the bore/scope.
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Care to explain how an angular change measurement gets more accurate when the level is placed on the end of a long stick? A 1 degree rotation is a 1 degree rotation, regardless of how high your level sits above the scope tube.

Mark
 
mmattockx said:
Care to explain how an angular change measurement gets more accurate when the level is placed on the end of a long stick? A 1 degree rotation is a 1 degree rotation, regardless of how high your level sits above the scope tube.

Mark
Click to expand...

The same way a ship's movement is more apparent the higher up you go from the center of rotation such as the top of the mast on a sailboat.

A 1 degree difference is a 1 degree difference but there is more movement up high.

I didn't buy it for that reason though and I'd say the difference in accuracy is pretty negligible so yea I know what you are saying.
 
ceriksson said:
The same way a ship's movement is more apparent the higher up you go from the center of rotation such as the top of the mast on a sailboat.

A 1 degree difference is a 1 degree difference but there is more movement up high.

I didn't buy it for that reason though and I'd say the difference in accuracy is pretty negligible so yea I know what you are saying.
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But the level measures rotation, not linear movement. Yes, the level will move side to side more with the longer stalk, but it will read exactly the same as if it were sitting directly on top of the scope tube.

Mark
 
the same principle as nascar racers use, the closer to the center the shorter the distance travelled. although opposite in this case. think of it in terms of 2 sticks, 1 being 1 foot long the other being 100 feet long, the same 1 degree of movement results in the longer one tralling a much greater distance at the tip, therefore much more sensitive to cant.
 
bingo1010 said:
the same principle as nascar racers use, the closer to the center the shorter the distance travelled. although opposite in this case. think of it in terms of 2 sticks, 1 being 1 foot long the other being 100 feet long, the same 1 degree of movement results in the longer one tralling a much greater distance at the tip, therefore much more sensitive to cant.
Click to expand...

The level measures the ANGLE, not the lateral movement. Your sticks both ROTATE the same amount and that is what the level measures, not the lateral movement.

Mark
 
I prefer the style that mounts on a pic. rail. Looking through the scope, I can open my left eye and see if I'm level. This is even easier if you shoot with both eyes open.
 
ffwd said:
I prefer the style that mounts on a pic. rail. Looking through the scope, I can open my left eye and see if I'm level. This is even easier if you shoot with both eyes open.
Click to expand...

XX22 very simple to instale and like you say no lifting head up
 
If mounted on your scope properly,you do not need to break cheek weld to view.
Although made of plastic ,I have used these for over (I'm guessing now) 10 years and have not had one break.I will say that I don't run and gun anymore and tend to be gentler on my gear.
The top mounts,top mount fold downs,the railmount foldaways ,all will work if mounted properly and used correctly. Personal preferences.
There was a railmounted solid aluminum level (not fold away) that I tried years ago and must say that because it "stayed proud" it had a tendency to be hit and moved and could not be trusted to hold level..I switched to the top mount.
Gord
 
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