Any 1911 9mm gurus or gunsmiths our there?

I'm certainly no guru but I am getting ready to customize my Norc so I've done a fair amount of reading on the subject. My first instincts are mentioned in the above posts. They have been taken to a smith so I think we can rule out the simple stuff like an improperly installed slide lock. As mentioned above I'm of the opinion it's barrel to slide interaction. How does the barrel lug look? Specifically the link, is there any elongation or irregular wear in the holes (all 3) I think that a little slop there could hinder the necessary pivot of the barrel in the slide. Extra play in the link or where the barrel hood comes in contact with the breech could prevent the bearing lugs at the top of the barrel remaining in place during the cycle while live firing or disengaging completely from the slide I suppose.
 
Barrel link is in tact and freely moving. The slide stop pin is in good condition, there is no peening of the takedown hole to suggest its jamming on the takedown pin. Ill have to investigate if the slide is far enough back to be disengaged from the locking lugs
 
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Does it occur if you put a mag in and press down on a hard surface with the butt of the grip? Try cycling rounds through it like that.
 
On mine I have replaced the barrel link and have used different mags to shoot with. The same out come every time.
I put marker on most of the moving parts in the slide and will go shoot it tomorrow and see if anything is rubbing.
I am wondering if the slide is twisting on the rail at the back causing it to be misaligned and binding?

I'll have a look when it jams again.
 
if you feed a round into the chamber from the mag, does it jam with no mag in it if you fire it?
I had an issue with a high mag release and the feedlots were causing issues.
Could be the pickup on the slide binding on the cutout in the back of the mag.
 
It seems to be at the exact time when the lugs on the barrel and slide should disengage. My barrel link seems to be fine what can be done to fix the "timing" issue???
 
Check your barrel link. It could be broken.

That was my thought, too. Had that happen to a 1911 in .45 and it behaved similar to OP's.


My barrel link seems to be fine what can be done to fix the "timing" issue???

Are you sure the link isn't stretched out or the hole ovaled? It doesn't take much of a dimensional change to jam things up as you describe.


Mark
 
Does you plunger spring engage and make proper contact on the slide lock/stop? Check to make sure there is proper engagement at this location, not enough contact/interference and the slide stop will walk out under normal fire causing the partial lock you explain (it will cause a torsion lock up on the barrel link). This will get worse with usage/age as it is a wear/interference fit. Hand cycling will not show this issue as stated above by others since the forces and grip are not the same.

If you have a punch or pin the same diameter as slide stop install it like you would a slide stop but the plunger spring will do nothing. load snap caps and have a friend cycle the slide for you while you hold with your normal grip (have your friend behind you, let them reach over your shoulder rack the slide fast and hard)
 
if you feed a round into the chamber from the mag, does it jam with no mag in it if you fire it?
I had an issue with a high mag release and the feedlots were causing issues.
Could be the pickup on the slide binding on the cutout in the back of the mag.

Kinda similar thought...put one round only in the mag, rack and fire. Does it still jam?
 
That was my thought, too. Had that happen to a 1911 in .45 and it behaved similar to OP's.




Are you sure the link isn't stretched out or the hole ovaled? It doesn't take much of a dimensional change to jam things up as you describe.


Mark

I'll have another good look to see if the hole is ovaled it is in tact and looks good to the naked wye
 
Does you plunger spring engage and make proper contact on the slide lock/stop? Check to make sure there is proper engagement at this location, not enough contact/interference and the slide stop will walk out under normal fire causing the partial lock you explain (it will cause a torsion lock up on the barrel link). This will get worse with usage/age as it is a wear/interference fit. Hand cycling will not show this issue as stated above by others since the forces and grip are not the same.

If you have a punch or pin the same diameter as slide stop install it like you would a slide stop but the plunger spring will do nothing. load snap caps and have a friend cycle the slide for you while you hold with your normal grip (have your friend behind you, let them reach over your shoulder rack the slide fast and hard)

Slide stop pin seems to be good with no interference but if I push it out a little it binds the slide up but not on its own
 
Slide stop should have interference with the plunger spring assembly, if I understand what you said above I would suspect this as your problem as you stated there is no contact/interference. No interference between the slide lock and the plunger spring assembly will allow the slide stop to walk out during cycling which intern locks up the slide. Plunger spring assembly maybe worn/weak, there should be a detente in the slide stop which positively mates with the plunger spring assembly. luckily both parts are relative cheap, best of luck!
 
Slide stop should have interference with the plunger spring assembly, if I understand what you said above I would suspect this as your problem as you stated there is no contact/interference. No interference between the slide lock and the plunger spring assembly will allow the slide stop to walk out during cycling which intern locks up the slide. Plunger spring assembly maybe worn/weak, there should be a detente in the slide stop which positively mates with the plunger spring assembly. luckily both parts are relative cheap, best of luck!

Sorry no interference with the notches in the slide but there is upward spring tension on the slide stop and the slide stop does not walk out on its own
 
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