Any .22 pistol to stay away from?

Yup, I second that. Was neat to watch though, once I knew you weren't hurt

In my experience, gsg 1911 is cheaply made as well. Not built for durability. Had a duramatic that slamfired every time you racked the slide back after loading.

I was hurt. Did my QL6A with my right hand wrapped up. Needed to use my left hand for writing.
 
The comparative complication of the Ruger Mk I - III disassembly is WELL PUBLICISED and universally accepted (it is not whining), and a valid concern for a new shooter, in this case the OP's GF. You may be an adept qualified gunsmith or mechanical wiz, however, not all individuals are or will ever be. This is Why Ruger made the Mk IV an easy to disassemble pistol. Complicated maintenance for new shooter = maintenance not done = stoppages/failure to feed/failure to fire = discouraged new shooter getting rid of pistol = one less firearms owner = one less voice and vote for firearms ownership issues. Just looking at it from the big picture perspective.

this shouldn't be an issue for a "jetfixer", or is it?
 
Quote Originally Posted by 05RAV View Post
Perhaps you had a lemon or you didn't know how to shoot it (nice). Even a unmodified GSG/Sig Sauer 1911 is much better than you think:

Sig Sauer 1911 after 30,000 rounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sHDRGZKyxc
Sig Sauer 1911 after 10,000 rounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qu3wNveH5Yw
GSG 1911 after 5,000 rounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EONkWhF94E

I have a GSG 1911 with 3,500 rounds already through the pipe and it has been running without any problem whatsoever. Fact of the matter is that right from the beginning I installed the ZRTS Performance Package which helps a lot. One thing to remember is that the GSG/Sig Sauer 1911 requires HIGH VELOCITY (HV) ammo: Federal Champion HP (1260fps), CCI Mini Mag (1235fps) and CCI AR Tactical (1200fps) works the best.


I have a Ruger Mark II since 30 years, didn't have to install a thing, it digests most accurately any .22 ammo and it still looks and performs like new after 10s of thousands of rounds.

Have you really read my post? Have you watched the videos? I clearly said: a unmodified GSG/Sig Sauer 1911. The GSG/Sig does not neeed anything installed on it and can run as well as your Ruger Mark II.
The fact that I personally installed the ZRTS Performance Package on my GSG 1911 does not mean that the pistol was a junk and could not shoot without the ZRTS Package.
 
Perhaps you had a lemon or you didn't know how to shoot it (nice). Even a unmodified GSG/Sig Sauer 1911 is much better than you think:

Sig Sauer 1911 after 30,000 rounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sHDRGZKyxc
Sig Sauer 1911 after 10,000 rounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qu3wNveH5Yw
GSG 1911 after 5,000 rounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EONkWhF94E

I have a GSG 1911 with 3,500 rounds already through the pipe and it has been running without any problem whatsoever. Fact of the matter is that right from the beginning I installed the ZRTS Performance Package which helps a lot. One thing to remember is that the GSG/Sig Sauer 1911 requires HIGH VELOCITY (HV) ammo: Federal Champion HP (1260fps), CCI Mini Mag (1235fps) and CCI AR Tactical (1200fps) works the best.
I have a Ruger Mark II since 30 years, didn't have to install a thing, it digests most accurately any .22 ammo and it still looks and performs like new after 10s of thousands of rounds.

Have you really read my post? Have you watched the videos? I clearly said: a unmodified GSG/Sig Sauer 1911. The GSG/Sig does not neeed anything installed on it and can run as well as your Ruger Mark II.
The fact that I personally installed the ZRTS Performance Package on my GSG 1911 does not mean that the pistol was a junk and could not shoot without the ZRTS Package.

yes, not only did I read your post, but I also highlighted the important stuff.
 
this shouldn't be an issue for a "jetfixer", or is it?

Cheap sarcastic shot, nice. Very mature and conducive to effective and constructive communication, while ensuring the furtherance of solidarity within the firearms community.

Actually disassembly is a piece of cake. It's the reassembly that is the challenge. However, it's not rocket science and you don't have to be a mechanical whiz to figure it out. Once the technique is learned (and with a little practice it's very simple) it is no more difficult than stripping a 1911 or any other pistol. If the design was really that discouraging Ruger would never have sold literally millions of them (over 3 million MK IIs alone). Also, I think that if you are going to get someone into shooting you should also teach them to maintain their firearm including basic disassembly. Are the MK IVs more convenient to disassemble? Sure they are. However, cost seems to be a concern with the OP and a MK IV is going to cost almost double what a good used MK II or III can be had for and it will not shoot any better.

Correct, the reassembly is the more difficult process than the disassembly. They sold millions because it's a solid pistol, and the market did not have the number of other options it does now. I had a Mk II for over a decade, and still wonder if I should have sold it. My statement comes from many people expressing that the Mk I - III's were the most challenging to do maintenance on. This is well publicized and seen on many YouTube videos. In my experience with .22LR pistols, the Mk II I had would be rated as the one requiring the most precise technique to put back together. Agreed that it is not "rocket science" but there is a curve of comprehension amongst individuals. Some amazing shooters are mechanically inept and some gunsmiths are lousy shooters. All of what you are saying about it being a task that can be learned and someone should be taught basic maintenance in hand with learning to shoot has significant validity, however, it may not be the best introduction to shooting. Start simple and move up is generally a more effective method of introduction, training and education. Yes indeed, the Mk IV is pricey, and there are lots of used .22LR pistols out there for a good price.
 
+1 vote for the GSG 1911. Although I don't shoot thousands of rounds through mine (yet :)).


Winchester wildcat has to be the worst ammo in the history of the world. I always thought thunderbolts were bad, but those wildcats are the worst!!!



*I've been shooting a ton of CCI subsonics from my son's GSG16, and it's been perfectly reliable so far. great plinking combo.
 
The main problem with difficult re-assembly of the old style Ruger Mk pistols, is instructions like: turn it upside-down, hold the trigger, tilt it forward, insert this, tilt it back, lock the piece...

If people don't know *why* they're doing these steps, it will always be a mysterious chore. If they understand that they're moving the hammer, tipping its swivelling strut onto the bearing for the main spring which is compressed in the removable back strap, and relate it to the pieces and their relative positions as they see when the pistol is apart, most would only have to look at a tutorial video the first time.

You meet lots of Mk shooters at the range. If anyone expresses fear of taking it down to clean, I can very quickly (with their permission) take it apart, explain those bits, and have it back together. The response is 'that wasn't as bad as I was told by everybody .' [New pistols are a little tight to work with, I'll admit.]
 
The comparative complication of the Ruger Mk I - III disassembly is WELL PUBLICISED and universally accepted (it is not whining), and a valid concern for a new shooter, in this case the OP's GF. You may be an adept qualified gunsmith or mechanical wiz, however, not all individuals are or will ever be. This is Why Ruger made the Mk IV an easy to disassemble pistol. Complicated maintenance for new shooter = maintenance not done = stoppages/failure to feed/failure to fire = discouraged new shooter getting rid of pistol = one less firearms owner = one less voice and vote for firearms ownership issues. Just looking at it from the big picture perspective.

I agree, I will dive into tearing down any firearm and have successfully completely disassembled a Ruger Mk3 many times. It is the worst firearm to reassemble I have had the experience of dealing with. Mine jammed constantly and also wasn't very accurate, so why own one? Buy a Buckmark for less money and have something reliable, accurate and don't need a NASA engineer to reassemble.
 
Actually disassembly is a piece of cake. It's the reassembly that is the challenge. However, it's not rocket science and you don't have to be a mechanical whiz to figure it out. Once the technique is learned (and with a little practice it's very simple) it is no more difficult than stripping a 1911 or any other pistol. If the design was really that discouraging Ruger would never have sold literally millions of them (over 3 million MK IIs alone). Also, I think that if you are going to get someone into shooting you should also teach them to maintain their firearm including basic disassembly. Are the MK IVs more convenient to disassemble? Sure they are. However, cost seems to be a concern with the OP and a MK IV is going to cost almost double what a good used MK II or III can be had for and it will not shoot any better.

Ruger sells millions of 10/22's as well, also one of the worst rimfire semi's I have ever owned. I am a fan of Ruger as well, I have had several of their revolvers and they are amazing firearms. The 10/22 and Mk3 I owned were both massive disappointments. Maybe I did something wrong, but both jammed constantly, and weren't at all accurate.
 
The main problem with difficult re-assembly of the old style Ruger Mk pistols, is instructions like: turn it upside-down, hold the trigger, tilt it forward, insert this, tilt it back, lock the piece...

If people don't know *why* they're doing these steps, it will always be a mysterious chore. If they understand that they're moving the hammer, tipping its swivelling strut onto the bearing for the main spring which is compressed in the removable back strap, and relate it to the pieces and their relative positions as they see when the pistol is apart, most would only have to look at a tutorial video the first time.

You meet lots of Mk shooters at the range. If anyone expresses fear of taking it down to clean, I can very quickly (with their permission) take it apart, explain those bits, and have it back together. The response is 'that wasn't as bad as I was told by everybody .' [New pistols are a little tight to work with, I'll admit.]

This ^^^^

The Ruger mark 1-4 pistols are very accurate and reliable. I have had a few of them, never had an issue.
 
While on the topic, I noticed that no one mentioned the Sig P226 in 22lr. I don’t have any feed back to report but was curious if anyone with experience of the firearm could elaborate? As the 1911 & mosquito don’t seem to have a very good rep..
 
While on the topic, I noticed that no one mentioned the Sig P226 in 22lr. I don’t have any feed back to report but was curious if anyone with experience of the firearm could elaborate? As the 1911 & mosquito don’t seem to have a very good rep..

The SIG Cal X Change kits in 22LR for the P220,226,228/9 run round nose 40gr ammo quite well....for plinking purposes.
The BEST 22LR magazine option for a SIG P220,226,228/9 are the 3D printed gsdesigns.ca that have the slide lock option...for those who can not count to 10 using the OEM SIG magazines.

I've modified a SIG P226 22LR magazine to insert into a P227 10rd mag body so that I have the option to install one of my P220 22LR top end on one of my P227's.

For accuracy work/grouse head shots I grab one of my Ruger MkI's or MkII's.
or
One of my S&W mdl 41's.
 
That’s awesome! I did see the option of converting slides and barrel, but I like to keep my p226 in 9mm setup. Good to know about gsdesigns, I have found that there is no better fit then a p226 for my hand and would like to keep a 22lr set up close to it, for practice/trainer obviously. Might have to give the p226r a go.
 
This ^^^^

The Ruger mark 1-4 pistols are very accurate and reliable. I have had a few of them, never had an issue.

Same here, had my Mark II heavy barrel target for 20 years. Never had one jam, always runs, excellent accuracy. My club has a couple of these as loaner guns also, same story. I also had great luck with a Browning Nomad and had both 4" and 6" barrels for one frame.
 
The SIG Cal X Change kits in 22LR for the P220,226,228/9 run round nose 40gr ammo quite well....for plinking purposes.
The BEST 22LR magazine option for a SIG P220,226,228/9 are the 3D printed gsdesigns.ca that have the slide lock option...for those who can not count to 10 using the OEM SIG magazines.

I've modified a SIG P226 22LR magazine to insert into a P227 10rd mag body so that I have the option to install one of my P220 22LR top end on one of my P227's.

For accuracy work/grouse head shots I grab one of my Ruger MkI's or MkII's.
or
One of my S&W mdl 41's.

I agree with DANS40X, I have other way around, I get P226 in 22LR but put XChange Kit in 9mm.

I keep counting the round, so last round hold open is not an issue for me.

It has around 3000 rounds, no major problem, most if not all ammo related.

It has OK accuracy, compare to my S&W 617, Victory and Buckmark.
 
Back
Top Bottom