Any Hamilton Area S&W MP9 Owner with Trigger Upgrade?

Kevin,

It was your post that referred to this mod that lead me on this course. Would you be so kind as to post the link in this thread? No one believes me, can't blame them!
 
KevinB said:
One of the Lt's on my Police Dept has done a number of guns for guys (we cannot install aftermarket parts in duty gun *but the way the policy was written then was nothing against modification as long as the trigger pull is over 4.5lbs, he is a S&W Armorer as well).

I highly recommend the S&W Armorer course -- it's free to LE at least here (not sure what the cost is for non LE/MIL) and gives a big discount to guns.

I've shot guns with every different option of APEX trigger kit out there -- they are nice - but for about 30 min if you have the right tools and the inclination, you can get a trigger that is damn near as good.

The best way is to get the APEX hard sear and cut it (or your gunsmith if your not good with precising filing and stoning) to the angle that gives you the pull and reset you want, if your looking for the best possible M&P trigger, mainly as if you start going into the factory sear beyond a few thou it cuts beyond the surface hardening and the sear will wear soon and your gun will not be safe.
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Kevin, would you recommend this over the apex FSST kit given that we aren't bound by the no aftermarket parts clause. I don't doubt there are ways to improve the stock trigger without aftermarket help, but it sounds like what you posted is sort of a next best thing work around to the LE restrictions.
 
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

The Burwell trigger job is what I used on my CORE and 9C.

Key points I want to make on the APEX parts, versus smithing aftermarket, versus smithing APEX.
I think you can smith the OEM parts to be a better trigger than anything you will "drop in" with the APEX, I think if you smith the APEX parts your at the best of both worlds.

The nicest guns I have played with where done by my above mentioned Lt. that used APEX parts.

What is best for you will depend upon 1) budget 2) time/tools/skill.

Also I also want to point out that I don't think factory M&P triggers are utterly crap, given the choice between spending money on parts versus training and ammo, I will always default to the training/ammo.
 
Thanks for posting that link Kevin. I took a lot of flak earlier for claiming what you just did. I am not a gunsmith but a newb, I have however been an amateur machinist for several years and the work outlined in your link doesn't even require that level of involvement. A cordless drill would speed up the striker block work, that's all a guy needs to do the mods. I simply followed a recipe and as you pointed out it really helps the M&P trigger.

I didn't find that the M&P with the DCAEK was night and day better except when practicing double taps. When I first got my M&P I thought that it was a decent gun. After having used it as my primary ODPL piece I have to say that it is a fantastic gun. I bought a CZ SP-01 Shadow because I wanted a better gun but I have learned that it is simply a different gun. I found out that the M&P is a trusty sidekick that pretty much makes the best of all situations, it ain't fussy it just works.
 
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Polishing the bits that rub makes an amazing difference - everyone who shoots my M&P loves the trigger, this includes people who shoot a lot (even Earl liked it). That trigger started out as a complete polish of friction points, because the Apex sear wasn't available yet. I used 3,000 grit sandpaper and a tube of Flitz polish. Per the Burwell instructions, I did the key parts, but didn't change the contour of the factory sear. Later the Apex comp kit and a sear for my M&P45 came along. In the end, the 9mm got just the sear and was left with the polished parts, and the 45 got the sear and FPB from Apex - neither gun ended up with the Apex springs, the trigger return was too weak. One thing that I really like about the Apex sear is that it's much harder than the factory sear - my gun gets shot quite a bit, and the Apex sear looks better with 35K on it than the factory sear did with 5K. Given the design, it's not the end of the world, but it's one less thing to deal with.
 
KevinB said:
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf



The nicest guns I have played with where done by my above mentioned Lt. that used APEX parts.

What is best for you will depend upon 1) budget 2) time/tools/skill.

Also I also want to point out that I don't think factory M&P triggers are utterly crap, given the choice between spending money on parts versus training and ammo, I will always default to the training/ammo.
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I think says it all for me...
 
yohann160 said:
My M&P9 should be here Tues or Wed. It is the Massachusets approved version with a 10lbs trigger. Will be a fun learning experience to work on reducing the pull.
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That's the one I bought too. It really doesn't feel like 10lbs but I put in a Glock spring from Wolff anyways. The only heaviness in trigger pull that I can find now is the actual friction from the sear release. Great deal BTW from IRG at $489! Too bad about our exchange rate. Luckily I bought mine just before our dollar took a powder.
 
handofzeus said:
That's the one I bought too. It really doesn't feel like 10lbs but I put in a Glock spring from Wolff anyways. The only heaviness in trigger pull that I can find now is the actual friction from the sear release. Great deal BTW from IRG at $489! Too bad about our exchange rate. Luckily I bought mine just before our dollar took a powder.
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Canpar says tomorrow. I got it on sale for 475$ USD. The total was 538.41$ CA.
 
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