Any issues with these cases - Pressure Signs

So what would you guys recommend as next step.

I’ll redo the ladder at 300 as I made 3 of each charge so have some.

The range is far so I want to maximize the visit.

Based on the data above. Should I explore the 41.5!/ 2700 range with 5 shot groups?

Should I load higher then 41.9 and see if better mode at higher charge.

I’m happy at 2700 so wouldnt go higher unless it would provide significant accuracy benefits.

Or should I just redo ladder and look at that before anything else.

Appreciate all the help.

Mike
 
Do seating test at 41.2. Then fine tune for that vertical overlap showing at 41.2-41.3. If you want try for more speed powder usually clicks with 3% changes.
41.2x1.03=42.436 grains. Your primers look like there’s enough room.
PS. I don’t use ES, SD or graphs.
All changes tested for results on target.
 
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As stated, if you don't have pressure testing equipment, a chronograph is the best indicator of pressure.

All other "signs" are mostly subjective and are all notoriously unreliable, but worth noting. In particular loose primer pockets suggest high pressure (at least for the strength of that particular brass) and I'm reluctant to lose brass before at least five firings and will lower the load even if it's "safe", so long as accuracy remains acceptable.
 
A chronograph is good but two guns can be up to 100fps different with the same load.
A stiff bolt is a very reliable pressure indicator. Heavy brass like Lapua doesn’t flatten primers as much, but there will be a stiff bolt and damaged case rims from extreme extraction force. Some guns leave ejector marks and cratered primers at low pressures, you have deal with the indicators your gun provides.
Go to the Accurate Shooter.com forum. They are measuring the .200 line to indicate pressure.
There’s members of the Williamsport BR club that haven’t shot over a chronograph since 2007. No pressure testing equipment, just common sense and perfect understanding of the first 100 pages of reloading manuals.
Those with experience in Weatherby factory ammo of the 80’s will remember primers so flat it looked like one piece. Chronograph results indicating well over 70,000 psi. No cratered or pierced primers.
IMG_8966.jpeg
My 700. Long firing pin. There’s a bur around the ejector that leaves premature marks that can be a real bad sign if your bolt was pristine. The edge the primer still has a gap to the brass and easy bolt open tells me to ignore these indicators.
 
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What is your goal with this rifle? If you find accuracy adequate at 41.2gn and the velocity good for you at +- 2700fps then stay around that and play with sitting depth. I would do a five shot group at 41.2 and record each shot where they land( my last 5 shot group I had 3 inside .75” and then a fourth that made it just under an inch and the fifth one screwed it up lol!
Anyway what ever you do keep the info coming here!
 
Ya I was thinking of a 5 shot group around that charge..

Im trying to get into the 1000 yard game so want to develop a good long range load. Obviously challenging round here as not many places to actually shoot that distance for practice.

Mike
 
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You're title asked, "are there any issues with these cases?" Yes there is, my response is, "purchase quality brass." You have scraped the bottom of the barrel with Hornady brass. Lapua, Peterson and Alpha would be an excellent start.
 
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