Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
I'm hoping to borrow a action wrench to remove the barrel from my m-14S for shortening. Anyone in the kitchener/waterloo-London area have one I could use?
Thanks
Thanks
Any one have a m-305 action wrench?
- Thread starter Cocked&Locked
- Start date
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
If no one has a wrench for loan, if they could post pics of the one they have next to a scale or ruler I could build my own. here's hoping!
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
nah, i'm patient, I'll just shoot the one I plan to keep as a long barrel unit for now. I need it for the one thats gonna get carbined
Keep me posted. If you would be willing I'd buy drawings off you and make my own.
Keep me posted. If you would be willing I'd buy drawings off you and make my own.
Sgt Striker
CGN Regular
- Location
- Great White North, Eh!
Do you already have the barrel clamp? That's usually the hard part to find, I got my wrench at an auto parts shop, thanks to Hungry...
Ardent
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I've done it with a pipe wrench and a piece of leather... Clamping the action safely is deffinately the toughest part, you can make your own blocks out of a strong splinter resistant hardwood and use a conventional vise. Much easier when someone's got the right tools, a good mod on this site helped me with my last one but the above methods certainly work, and I used them to assemble barrelled actions, though removing the barrel is tougher than indexing.
Don't have any drawings, just one of those products I want done. It's not high on the priority list, hence the time delay.
Don't have any drawings, just one of those products I want done. It's not high on the priority list, hence the time delay.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
a barrel clamp could be made by clamping two pieces of square steel together and boring the appropriate hole through the intersection, then removing 10 or 15 thou for clamping could it not?
Cocked&Locked. I have made a few barrel vices as you have described, except the hole is bored to 1 1/2" or so, and then aluminum cylinders are bored for various barrel diameters and split. Clamping screws should be at least 3/4" or better, 7/8", high grade. Use a dusting of powdered rosin on the sleeves before tightening on the barrel. The pieces of steel stock are 6 or 7 inches long.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
tiriaq said:
Good idea! And the wrench drawings show what I need there too. You guys are great, thanks all!
Back to The Welfare approach
Okay, now that the drawings are made available, lemme re-affirm my love for tweaking the M14 the WELFARE Way.....
Head down to your handy dandy Princess Auto Supply or your Kitchener-Waterloo Surplus (for you SW Ontario types). They always have these humungus wrenches for sale (about $ 14.00). Get one with 1 3/4" sizing and open it up slightly from 1.75" to 1.80" with a file or a grinder, whatever is easiest for you. I could swear that they are almost 24" long... Great leverage.
By the way, I've got to credit Lazerus2000 (CGN member) for showing me this cheaper way during our Abby M14 Clinic October 2004. He and I think along the same wavelength.... "Save your money" approach....
Just DON'T (learned from experience) rush out and spend $ USD 60 from SARCO in New Jersey for an M1 / M14 reciever wrench like I did. By the time the shipping was paid, I was into the wrench for over $ 100. OUCH !
For you machinist or CNC or millwright (get yer hands dirty kinda) guys, here's whatcha do for the vise jaw blocks: Any 2 blocks of steel, about 1" thick (this ain't rocket science so I'm trying not to get technical) will do the job. I got my machinist buddy to measure the outer diameter of an M14 barrel and SUBTRACT 20 thou for the "crush".
Then have your machinist buddy do the rest of the cutting... don't ask me how to cut it... I'm just the M14 tweaker.... not the tool maker.
That's it... The techniques for indexing and swapping barrels are in my M14 Clinic videos.... (I hope...) I have not seen them, yet.
Hope this helps,
Barney
Okay, now that the drawings are made available, lemme re-affirm my love for tweaking the M14 the WELFARE Way.....
Head down to your handy dandy Princess Auto Supply or your Kitchener-Waterloo Surplus (for you SW Ontario types). They always have these humungus wrenches for sale (about $ 14.00). Get one with 1 3/4" sizing and open it up slightly from 1.75" to 1.80" with a file or a grinder, whatever is easiest for you. I could swear that they are almost 24" long... Great leverage.
By the way, I've got to credit Lazerus2000 (CGN member) for showing me this cheaper way during our Abby M14 Clinic October 2004. He and I think along the same wavelength.... "Save your money" approach....
Just DON'T (learned from experience) rush out and spend $ USD 60 from SARCO in New Jersey for an M1 / M14 reciever wrench like I did. By the time the shipping was paid, I was into the wrench for over $ 100. OUCH !
For you machinist or CNC or millwright (get yer hands dirty kinda) guys, here's whatcha do for the vise jaw blocks: Any 2 blocks of steel, about 1" thick (this ain't rocket science so I'm trying not to get technical) will do the job. I got my machinist buddy to measure the outer diameter of an M14 barrel and SUBTRACT 20 thou for the "crush".
Then have your machinist buddy do the rest of the cutting... don't ask me how to cut it... I'm just the M14 tweaker.... not the tool maker.
That's it... The techniques for indexing and swapping barrels are in my M14 Clinic videos.... (I hope...)
I have not seen them, yet.Hope this helps,
Barney
What Hungry said ...
and a bit of extra advice:
I pad my receiver wrench with a thin strip of lead or copper or aluminum [ pop can ]. It is a LOT easier to brush some softer metal discoloration off the receiver, than to try and get the parkerising back on.
I have a 4' long extension tube I sometime put on the 2' wrench for "tweaking" OFF those supertight GI barrels. The longer the wrench handle, the more power, and ALSO, the more precision at turning that last little hair to get the sights to line up just perfect
The Chinese barrels are very SOFT compared to a GI barrel. Not a big deal for accuracy, cause both GI and import barrels are CHROME lined. However, realise that there is a very slight angle to the barrel shoulder [ like about negative 1 degree ] so the OUTSIDE of the barrel shoulder contacts the receiver before the inside. This is known as a "crush fit", and it provides a fair amount of adjustability. The edge of the barrel shoulder WILL disrupt every time you tighten up a barrel. This is especially noticeable on USED barrels, twisted on a few times.
If you over torque, and end up with a barrel that indexes too far around = IN ... you are NOT screwed. The CORRECT way to fix this is to put the barrel on a lathe, and CRUSH the disrupted metal back perfectly with pressure from a roller or thick smooth tool handle. The cheapo way to do this is to get a SMALL hammer and peen the shoulder down again with a whole bunch of tiny, light hits. Not perfect, but it will save a loose barrel in most cases.
Sorry, there is no such cheap/simple cure for the massive excessive headspace often encountered with SOME of the import barrels and bolts. The Chinese receivers are always pretty good for dimension, [ at least in my three dozen or so samples ] but the barrel hoods may be too damn long [ protrude too far into the receiver ] and the bolts may be too damn short [ gotta match up to those long hoods ]. Best fix is to use a GI barrel and bolt ... but that ain't cheap no more. The GI barrel and olt will usually cost you more than the entire Chinese rifle ... but IMHO, if you intend to keep the silly thing forever. it is worth it
[;{)
LAZ 1
and a bit of extra advice:
I pad my receiver wrench with a thin strip of lead or copper or aluminum [ pop can ]. It is a LOT easier to brush some softer metal discoloration off the receiver, than to try and get the parkerising back on.
I have a 4' long extension tube I sometime put on the 2' wrench for "tweaking" OFF those supertight GI barrels. The longer the wrench handle, the more power, and ALSO, the more precision at turning that last little hair to get the sights to line up just perfect
The Chinese barrels are very SOFT compared to a GI barrel. Not a big deal for accuracy, cause both GI and import barrels are CHROME lined. However, realise that there is a very slight angle to the barrel shoulder [ like about negative 1 degree ] so the OUTSIDE of the barrel shoulder contacts the receiver before the inside. This is known as a "crush fit", and it provides a fair amount of adjustability. The edge of the barrel shoulder WILL disrupt every time you tighten up a barrel. This is especially noticeable on USED barrels, twisted on a few times.
If you over torque, and end up with a barrel that indexes too far around = IN ... you are NOT screwed. The CORRECT way to fix this is to put the barrel on a lathe, and CRUSH the disrupted metal back perfectly with pressure from a roller or thick smooth tool handle. The cheapo way to do this is to get a SMALL hammer and peen the shoulder down again with a whole bunch of tiny, light hits. Not perfect, but it will save a loose barrel in most cases.
Sorry, there is no such cheap/simple cure for the massive excessive headspace often encountered with SOME of the import barrels and bolts. The Chinese receivers are always pretty good for dimension, [ at least in my three dozen or so samples ] but the barrel hoods may be too damn long [ protrude too far into the receiver ] and the bolts may be too damn short [ gotta match up to those long hoods ]. Best fix is to use a GI barrel and bolt ... but that ain't cheap no more. The GI barrel and olt will usually cost you more than the entire Chinese rifle ... but IMHO, if you intend to keep the silly thing forever. it is worth it
[;{)
LAZ 1
