Might you mean rust blueing? "Carbon" finishes usually refer to colour case-hardening like some of the old Colt revolvers. Rust blueing is an alternative to regular hot blueing. Originally it was done in a "damp cabinet" (sort of a sauna for guns!). Brownell's now sells a couple of alternate rust blue solutions, although some gunsmiths still do it the traditional way.dingus said:I need a couple WG Revolvers carbon blued...
Carbon blue is not the correct term for these turn of the century firearms . Colt and S&W used the same method until the first WW, It is refered to as heat blueing of which there is 3 different types , two intended for small parts and the third that was used for quailty handguns. A large oven is used at a temperature from 600 to 800 F and the polished parts are soaked for 3hours or more in a mixture of oil and bone until a temper blue is obtained. To my knowledge nowhere in the world is this being done today as it requires a great deal more skill to do than rust or "hot" blueing and is not as durable. The Carbon name might have come from a commercial product " Carbonia " that was sold by the American Gas Furnace Co. which was a mixture of bone and oil . Nitre salts can duplicate the same deep blue finish but requires a great deal of effort and testing for colour as each different steel requires its own temperature for perfect colour.dingus said:
wyrhare said:Carbon blue is not the correct term for these turn of the century firearms....
josquin said:Might you mean rust blueing? "Carbon" finishes usually refer to colour case-hardening like some of the old Colt revolvers. Rust blueing is an alternative to regular hot blueing. Originally it was done in a "damp cabinet" (sort of a sauna for guns!). Brownell's now sells a couple of alternate rust blue solutions, although some gunsmiths still do it the traditional way.
Dennis S. will no doubt correct me if the following isn't exactly right, but basically, a solution is swabbed on the warmed (and scrupulously clean) surface, allowed to sit (or put in the damp cabinet), then rinsed off in boiling distilled water. It is then "carded" using an extremely fine stainless steel wire brush or (oil-free) steel wool. This is repeated several times until the desired depth of finish is obtained. Like fine stock finishing, it is time-consuming but apparently the finish is lovely, with a soft sheen.
I got some Pilkington's Rust Blue from Brownell's that I want to try on a rifle I'm working on, but on a valuable piece it's probably best to entrust it to a professional.
Stuart