Any Walther P1 owners out there?

[Blistex]

The CFC web site just said that my restricted PAL has finally gone through and it's only a matter of weeks before it's in my hot little hand. In the mean time I've been thinking about possible first handguns.

I was originally going to get the SA XD9 but at $700+ it's a little pricey for my current situation of being a student who eats too much KD and not enough beer. Instead I've noticed a few Walther P1's for sale in the $400 range.



Just a few questions. . .

1. Overall how is this firearm durability wise? I'm not too concerned if the finish is going to wear or if I might put a scratch into it, but more on how well it hold up to use. Are parts going to break? Is this thing going to need a new spring or pin every 500 rounds? Is the barrel going to be worn out before I even use it

2. How is it quality wise? As long as it's cleaned will it always go "bang" or is it prone to jamming? Is it really picky when it comes to ammo? Or do I always have to use a specific brand?

3. How does it shoot? I'm guessing due to the shape it has some natural pointing tendencies, but is it comfortable? It is really tiny/huge in average sized hands? Does it shoot like a dream, or are quick follow up shots difficult due to odd recoil tendencies?

Should I put things off a few months (5-7) and instead get the SA XD9 or take the plunge and get this within the next two?

 

[Zimms]

I have a P.1, as well as several WW2 P.38's. The P.1 is very similar to the wartime guns. They are very well made, just the sort of thing you expect from German engineering. Their durability is very good as long as you stay away from +P ammunition. Most people report that the Winchester white box ammo works real well.

The locking system is the same as that used in the Beretta 92 series of guns. In fact, Beretta copied the Walther design. There is a general acknowledgement that the weakest link is the aluminum frame, in particular the area just below the steel locking block. In early P.1's the locking block could come out of battery and strike the frame with enough force to crack it over time. The factory fix was to install a hexagonal pin in this area. This provided a steel surface for the locking block to strike and avoid cracking the frame. Try and get one with this pin installed. It is very evident whether or not it is in place and is clearly visible just above the trigger. Replacement springs are readily available, but are usually not necessary. Mine works fine with the original springs. Most of the P.1 barrels I see are in excellent condition. I don't think these guns ever saw the use of corrosive ammo.

This gun was designed for use with FMJ bullets and is generally quite reliable with FMJ loads from most manufacturers. Stay away from any of the Russian steel-cased ammo brands (Wolf, Barnaul, Brown Bear, etc.) as these tend to beat up the breech block and extractor more than brass-cased loads. Malfunctions, when they occur, are usually caused by a defective magazine. Mine feeds all but the most extreme hollow points but for me this is a shooter, not a carry gun. However, once you've experimented and settled on a hollow point cartridge that works then I see no reason why a P.1 could not be used for self defense. The Federal 9BP 115 grain hollow point round works very well in my P.1 and P.38's and is a better than average performer. It has a good street record for one-shot stops.

Ergonomically, the gun is very nice. Because of its single stack design it fits most hands nicely and "feels" great when you hold it (damn near makes you want to speak German). It points very instinctively too. Accuracy is better than average. The single action trigger is very nice; the double-action mode is smooth but a bit heavy as this is one of the first double-action trigger designs. Modern guns will have a nicer DA trigger. Is it worth an extra $300 to get a better DA pull? Not in my book.

Even the wartime P.38's with steel frames are and were considered to be muzzle-light due to the absence of any slide protruding beyond the trigger area. The aluminum framed guns are even worse in this regard and you will see a little more muzzle flip with the P.1 than, say, a Beretta 92. However it's still not bad since the 9mm cartridge doesn't produce a lot of recoil. You learn to compensate for it. However, to address your concern directly, it will take a few milliseconds longer to get back on target after each round.

Beyond that, there's not much else to say. Finding a holster that fits can be tricky. The P.1's have a slightly wider slide than the wartime guns. They're super easy to field-strip and clean. If the price is right I would advise getting one if they appeal to you.

-Bob

 

[Blistex]

Thanks, that's pretty well exactly what I wanted to hear. I was going to get one on an auction site for $400 plus tax, but are there any other "as new" ones to be had from online retailers for less?

 

[acrashb]

1) fine, get one with the hex insert as mentioned.

2) every one I've shot was fussy about ammo. Liked premium FMJ. Otherwise completely reliable and as accurate as most modern guns.

3) the sear quality is hit-and miss. One of mine looked like it was machined by a file. I smoothed it out with some 600 grit and it was a lot more bearable - double action is heavy in any event. Single action is quite good.

Holster is easy: http://www.pwlusa.com/ , great quality leather.

As for fit, everyone's hand is different, P1's fit me like a glove.

$400 is the going price for a refurb in like-new condition. Great value for a plinker.

 

[HKfan]

What Zimms said, but I would try and come up with the extra $200. I know that is easier said than done when you are a student, but the extra $200 gets you a lot more in a pistol.

If you can get into the $600 range, then look out for an older style CZ-75, a K100 or even a used Glock or XD. These are pistols that you can keep forever and you will almost certainly never regret buying, whereas the P1 should be bought for collectors appeal or those who want a WW2 type pistol (in my opinion).

Got some spare time to mow some lawns? Or maybe instead of hitting the town the next two weeks, stay in with the girlfriend?

If you CANNOT go over $400, then I would look at something like a Norinco NP28 from Marstar for $369. Any of the Norinco 1911 clones are good value for money, IMHO.

 

[bernse]

If you CANNOT go over $400, then I would look at something like a Norinco NP28 from Marstar for $369. Any of the Norinco 1911 clones are good value for money, IMHO.

I am far from a Norinco basher (I own 5), but I don't know if I'd go that way. It's a Walther, and it's built very well. Norincos can be built very well too (my NP22 is/was friggen fantastic) but it's an old school Walther. While it is WW2 vintage, they were ahead of their time and had to only be mildly updated up until they stopped building them (80s?).

Great pistol, and I'd love a P.1 to compliment my circa 44 P.38.

 

[redleg]

I hate to say this (because I have lots of P1s in inventory), but they are not that durable. The P38 design is ok and for the period it was ahead of its time in many respects, however the guns are rather fragile by todays standards. I have seen lots of cracked slides, quite a few broken locking blocks, and recently I had a barrel crack right through the chamber. There are also ergonomic/practical factors to consider. For example a P38/P1 would be unsuitable for action shooting because of the heel mag release. You may not care now, but next year you would likely be looking for another gun just to try out IDPA or IPSC.
I would echo the comments above and suggest you look at spending a little more to get a better gun. The CZ75 can be had for about $600, even used it would seem to me to be a much better bet.

 

[HKfan]

Bernse, I agree that Walther's are built well, but the P1 (like the PPK) are not the most durable pistols ever. They are nice, but when shooting factory ammo you will find that the pistol will 'age' a lot quicker than modern pistols.

I know a few people with P1's who have complained of cracked slides and looser tolerances after only several thousand rounds. A Norinco, or CZ on the other hand are built to withstand a lot of punishment, and I would suggest that your wrist will go before the pistol does!

 

[Blistex]

Thanks for all the great replys, I've decided to wait a few more month before getting a handgun and make my first pistol an XD9.

I was down to those two choices since I've held both pistols in my hand and I really like the grip on them and the general feel. But in all likelyhood I'm going to shoot the hell out of whatever I get. Given the P1's fagile nature I might get it sometime down the road as a collector/novelty gun, but I think for now I'll focus on the XD9.

p.s. shame on those of you trying to corrupt me with your evil commie knockoff Norincos!

 

[HKfan]

p.s. shame on those of you trying to corrupt me with your evil commie knockoff Norincos!

And here is something to overcome the message shortness error!