anyone able to machine something for me? (56k no friendly)

PowerStroke

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
Location
Vancouver, BC
i have the evo 10/22 stock and i would like to have it modified....

the piece that bolts on top of the stock that holds the top weaver rail..... its made oout of aluminum and i have stripped multiple threads on this piece from taking it apart from time to time.... is there anyone on here that can machine me one out of steel? or anyone know of anyone that can?


on another note any suggestions on how i can neatly cut out a part of the stock so it shows the serial number? dremel?

DSCF7148.jpg

DSCF7149.jpg

DSCF7150.jpg

DSCF7152.jpg

DSCF7153.jpg
 
Find 1 1/4" square tubing, cut it to leangth, cut off the botom, drill and tap the holes and you're back in business. For refinishing Duracoat works great, and you can do it yourself.
 
Find 1 1/4" square tubing, cut it to leangth, cut off the botom, drill and tap the holes and you're back in business. For refinishing Duracoat works great, and you can do it yourself.

ive been a fabricator for quite some time working with alot of materials.... the only material machined to have 90 degree corners instead of your standard radiused edges is aluminum.....

hss 1 1/4" steel tubing has a significant radius on the edges...

which is why i have considered having the piece machined....
 
Ok, so the corners will be a little rounded, and it will not look the same, at least it will work, and if you're a fabricator you can do it yourself and it won't cost you anything.
 
Im considering it, it might look pretty good... it was a flawed piece from the start, using 3/32 thick aluminum to mount the picatinny rails and cover the barrel... it was a disaster from the start (it should have been made out of mild steel)

cheers
Robert
 
Is there room on the inside for a thin steel strip? You could epoxy in place a drilled and tapped piece of flat steel. Just use longer screws.
 
I can make it for you. Do you just want it out of cold rolled mild steel? PM me if your still interested. Won't cost you too much neither.
 
The steel strip could be 3 threads deep and that should grip pretty solid if you don't over torque the screws. I'm building an evo as well. I'd better learn from your mistake, and be very cautious about the torque on the screws. I sure like that full length top rail you have for the scope mount. How long is that top rail? I want to order one like that.

I don't know if they sell that piece you stripped. If its not sold as a separate piece, you might be able to get someone to tig weld the holes shut, and retap it. Can you reposition it such that you can get metal behind the holes again and redrill it in a slightly different position?
 
you could also try PEM's or heli-coils... both are available at any fastener supply store. Depending on where you live there might be a material supply shop that can sell odd lengths of material as well. I'm pretty sure that you can get some "u" channel for cheap and with pretty square corners.
 
How about putting a nut on the inside. Stop using a pipe on your allen key:p If you need to put that much torque on the screws to hold it in place you need more screws.. You can buy square tubing with a thicker wall.
 
hi why not drill the old threads out and retap them with steel helicoils. thats a good fix for aluminum. and if they ever strip you put anothe in. its easy to do at home with basic drill press and a vise. and cheaper then making a whole new part.
 
How about putting a nut on the inside. Stop using a pipe on your allen key:p If you need to put that much torque on the screws to hold it in place you need more screws.. You can buy square tubing with a thicker wall.

my barrel is too thick... i have a piece im fabricating up right now that will work quite well.... (mild steel ftw):50cal:
 
Back
Top Bottom