Anyone ever tried a modified cast bullet?

[Cactus]

I was thinking about removing the tip from a spire point bullet cast with the Lee C312155 gr sks mould. What got me thinking about this was my .303 Brit that I cast 185gr RN for, a friend gave me some 180gr RNFP that he cast to try and they shot well.

My thought was to make some 155gr spire points ito SPFP to try in my Baikal single shot to see how they do.

Has anyone tried this type of thing and if so how did it work out for accuracy?

Thanks
Cactus

 

[squirrelnuttz]

I was thinking about removing the tip from a spire point bullet cast with the Lee C312155 gr sks mould. What got me thinking about this was my .303 Brit that I cast 185gr RN for, a friend gave me some 180gr RNFP that he cast to try and they shot well.

My thought was to make some 155gr spire points ito SPFP to try in my Baikal single shot to see how they do.

Has anyone tried this type of thing and if so how did it work out for accuracy?

Thanks
Cactus

Thuis may be unneeded advice but here she goes.....be sure to slug your bore.- have the 160 gr lee mold and it is no good for use with my .303,designed to drop them at.312 or .313 and I needed .315.As for flat pointing it could be tough to get consistent weights when filing or clipping nose flat.if you are serious about a cast flat point just buy the right mould to start with.there are enough variables involved with accuracy and performance without adding more potential issues.

 

[Andy]

Make a jig so that you have a way for the file to remain square to the nose and remove a consistent amount. Find a piece of steel, aluminum, or even wood the right thickness (e.g. 3/4, 7/8 or 1") and drill a 5/16" hole in it. Place the bullet throught the hole with the nose protruding and file away down the the jig's surface. Remove the bullet from the jig and smooth out the burrs with steel wool. The bullets will not be perfect, but nose inconsistencies have a very small negative impact on accuracy. I have done this and could not detect a difference.

 

[Sly Old Fox]

Years ago, in a .30-06, Winchester made P17 sporter, using Lyman 311334, bands .308, forward .300, I would drop a steel Daisey BB in the mold then cast moderately hard, using a gas check. This bullet shot very well but I never took the chance using it on game.

I have a venerable Unimat minature lathe and have taken cast gas checked flat points, again for .30 calibre rifles and while maintaining the flat, drilled into it, for use in a .30-30 tubular mag.

Unfortunately, never had time and a decent range to soak a bundle of wet newsprint to check expansion of either.

 

[Old Ranger]

I've "flat nosed" RCBS 120 gr RN bullets in my Lyman lubesizer. Used a flat top punch and set the depth that the bullet entered the sizer die so that some of the nose remained above the top of the die when the bullet bottomed out. Then by applying some extra pressure the bullet point was flattened. The size of the flat nose can be adjusted by the changing the depth the bullet enters the die before it bottoms out. These bullets were relatively hard (WW + 2% tin water quenched). The amount of pressure required to flatten the nose was not as much as what I would have thought. No I did not break my lubesizer- An older Lyman 450

I was doing this to shoot the bullets in a Win 94 30-30. I know the RN bullets should be safe but I felt better with the flat noses. They looked cool too.

This method is obviously simple and quick and bullet weight remaims consistant as no metal is removed. Only downside is you could damage your lubesizer linkage. I did do a few 100 without problem.

I suppose a bullet with a long tapered nose could possible bend somewhat when having it's nose flattened. This didn'd happen with the short stubby little RCBS roundnose.