Anyone have load data for PRVI 180gr SPBT .303/.311 loads?

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45ACPKING

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Grabbed a bunch of prvi partizan 180gr spbt for my 1918 bsa no1 mk3 that has a really nice bore and I have taken many deer with her.
I normally use the federal blue box 180gr with satisfactory results on paper and excellent result on game but I wanna roll my own.
So does anyone have any load data for these bullets?
Powders on hand are IMR 3031,4895,4451 and H Varget.
I have access to Reloader 10x, 15x.... Acurate 2495....H 335, 414 and BLc2, VV 135 and IMR 8208xbr, 4166

Looking for some recipes with any of the above powders.
My brass is fireformed to this chamber and I'll be neck sizing only and I'll be using either a CCI#34 milspec primer or I could try using a winchester large magnum primer...... Those are all I have for primers at the moment.
 
Your powders are all fine for the job.

The PRIVI bullet will do the job well, if you can get it to shoot to POA.

I've always had issues with acceptable to me accuracy with PRIVI bullets.

That being said, I did develop a load for a No4 MkII with the bullets you have.

Here is my load

IMR3031 is a bit fast for the 180 grain bullets IMHO but I got the best groups with it.

My load was

Privi 180 gr SBT over 41.0 grains of IMR3031, over WLR primers.

This load was close to max in my rifle, sportered by PH in the sixties. Velocities were from a 22 inch bbl, and right around 2200+fps

The next best load was with with Varget

This load was quite consistent but the groups were slightly larger.

41.5 grains of Varget, under 180 SBT Privi, with WLR primers

Velocities were around 2200fps as well

The bore diameter on my rifle measured out to .3125. IMHO, the Privi bullets were to small for the bore and the heavy jacket material made it difficult for proper obturation.

The best groups were all just over 3 inches and were consistently that size, with the loads above.

Fine for 200 yd shots and under.

If your rifle has a tighter bore, it may shoot better.

I found that the faster I pushed those bullets the better they shot. Likely due to better obturation.

WW cases were
 
It's for a close range rifle, zero to 100 yards. So if I can get 3" or better groups at 100 I won't necessarily be disappointed. I would hope for better though.
I'm new to reloading everything , not just the .303 so just trying to figure things out and not waste valuable components getting there. I've read the warnings pertaining to reloading the no1 vs the no4 rifles so starting loads is where I want to be looking I'm thinking.
I've googled the topic a bunch of times and can't find much info.
Been searching for some flat based 174 or 180gr hunting bullets but components are tough to find these days and those prvi bullets are plentiful right now in 150 and 180gr so I took advantage and grabbed a few hundred 180's. Haven't found a 150gr factory load that the rifle likes at all so probably won't load anything other than the heavier grain bullets.

edit to add..... gonna go pick up a chronograph here pretty quick too so I can at least know how fast things are moving and compare that to the factory data for federal powershok
 
One of the main reasons many Lee Enfield rifles are not as accurate as they should be, is that they have chambers which were purposely reamed on the large side.

This condition causes factory or full length resized cases to be slightly tilted by as much as the headspace allows it to happen, while it's in the chamber.

If I may suggest, go to your local dollar store and pick up a bag of 3/8" diameter elastic bands. They usually come in packs of 250 for a toonie.

When loading new, unfired cases, my standard procedure for bolt rifles with rimmed cartridges, is to slip on an elastic band, right to the rim.

I also load the bullets out as far as the magazine will allow.

Once you've loaded the cartridges, when you chamber them, the elastic band will take care of the excessive headspace, if there is any and the case will fire form to the chamber, ready for its next reload.

When you reload, set your die to the point where only about .002in of the shoulder and the neck are sized.

You won't need the elastic bands for the following shots as the cases will be formed for your rifle. Likely they won't fit in another 303 chamber.

This is about the best way to wring the best accuracy out of your rifle, with handloads as well as factory ammo that is easy.

The next thing that may need attention would be the ways (bedding).

For a sporter, I just glass bed the recoil points and allow it to cure for a couple of days.

As for a chronograph, a good mid price unit, that's easy to use would be the basic "Magnetospeed"

They come in different models, some of which require the use of your cell phone to get the data.

I just use the basic model, with the screen facing me on the bench.

The twist rate in your rifle's barrel will be 1-10 inches and was purposely designed to stabilize 215 grain, round nose bullets at approximately 2000fps

Unless you have a nice tight bore, 303 Brit bores range from .3085 to .315+ in my experience, light .311 diameter bullets won't shoot well.

I find with larger bores that heavier/longer bullets tend to shoot best.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
bearhunter said:
One of the main reasons many Lee Enfield rifles are not as accurate as they should be, is that they have chambers which were purposely reamed on the large side.

This condition causes factory or full length resized cases to be slightly tilted by as much as the headspace allows it to happen, while it's in the chamber.

If I may suggest, go to your local dollar store and pick up a bag of 3/8" diameter elastic bands. They usually come in packs of 250 for a toonie.

When loading new, unfired cases, my standard procedure for bolt rifles with rimmed cartridges, is to slip on an elastic band, right to the rim.

I also load the bullets out as far as the magazine will allow.

Once you've loaded the cartridges, when you chamber them, the elastic band will take care of the excessive headspace, if there is any and the case will fire form to the chamber, ready for its next reload.

When you reload, set your die to the point where only about .002in of the shoulder and the neck are sized.

You won't need the elastic bands for the following shots as the cases will be formed for your rifle. Likely they won't fit in another 303 chamber.

This is about the best way to wring the best accuracy out of your rifle, with handloads as well as factory ammo that is easy.

The next thing that may need attention would be the ways (bedding).

For a sporter, I just glass bed the recoil points and allow it to cure for a couple of days.

As for a chronograph, a good mid price unit, that's easy to use would be the basic "Magnetospeed"

They come in different models, some of which require the use of your cell phone to get the data.

I just use the basic model, with the screen facing me on the bench.

The twist rate in your rifle's barrel will be 1-10 inches and was purposely designed to stabilize 215 grain, round nose bullets at approximately 2000fps

Unless you have a nice tight bore, 303 Brit bores range from .3085 to .315+ in my experience, light .311 diameter bullets won't shoot well.

I find with larger bores that heavier/longer bullets tend to shoot best.

Hope this helps a bit.
Click to expand...

I've already used the oring method to fireform as per the instructions on milsurp.com
My rifle actually has decent headspace when using the gauges and passes the field (6.9) gauge easily but I fireformed regardless
As for the stock, it is in a really nice walnut monte carlo and is fully bedded. I have also cleaned up the trigger some time ago and she breaks like glass.
I've never had to shoot an animal twice with this rifle and I have lost count of how many deer have fallen to her bark,
But yes, she likes the 180 gr pills so I probably won't waste time playing with anything light though I was pondering some 174gr round nose if I can find some
 
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