Anyone here sell stronger mainsprings for princess auto airguns?

Is the seal synthetic or leather? A leather seal can be fattened up by placing it nose first for a week in a plastic cup with Neetsfoot silicon oil in the bottom of it the re-install.
 
The seal is a plastic plunger cap on the end of the piston. It's in good shape. I cleaned the crud out of the cylinder and replaces it with a light grease. When the weather clears up, I'll take it to the range with my pal's gun (Same one) and do the comparison, couldn't get the Chrony to read indoors no matter what. The main differences are cocking effort and trigger pull.
 
Be aware of the potential that petroleum-based grease may contribute to dieseling, when the fuel/air mixture ignites from the heat of compression. This can damage the seals or worse.

Molybdenum grease used sparingly is best. Avoid silicone.

For more informatgion, see h ttps://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/02/how-to-lubricate-your-spring-piston-airgun/
h ttps://www.airgunmagazine.co.uk/features/how-to-lubricate-your-springer/#:~:text=Which%20lube%20should%20I%20use,is%20a%20formula%20for%20everyone
 
savagefan said:
The seal is a plastic plunger cap on the end of the piston. It's in good shape. I cleaned the crud out of the cylinder and replaces it with a light grease. When the weather clears up, I'll take it to the range with my pal's gun (Same one) and do the comparison, couldn't get the Chrony to read indoors no matter what. The main differences are cocking effort and trigger pull.
Click to expand...

Glue washers to the bottom of the shades, and goto the dollar store and get LED pod lights with the magnet on the bottom. Just stick them up there, and should work better indoors.

Grease can lead to dieseling. So could premature blow the seals.
 
Tested my gun against my friend's gun today (No laughing please) Identical models bought at the same time. His is bone stock and shoots 10fps faster than mine. The stock mainspring does not have to be compressed to be removed whereas the one I put in took some reefing on a clamp to cage it. Next I guess I'll cut a couple coils off to see if that could somehow help. Any ideas what's going on?
 
Like trevj said in his above post, it's a balancing act to get it just right.
Can you see the end of the chamber where the piston sits? Maybe with a bore cam.
Is there a relief hole?
Maybe the second spring you purchased is just made of a weaker metal.
Lots of variables.
 
I'll check HuskyDude, when I take it apart again. The cocking effort alone had me convinced it would show a great improvement, alas no.
 
savagefan said:
Tested my gun against my friend's gun today (No laughing please) Identical models bought at the same time. His is bone stock and shoots 10fps faster than mine. The stock mainspring does not have to be compressed to be removed whereas the one I put in took some reefing on a clamp to cage it. Next I guess I'll cut a couple coils off to see if that could somehow help. Any ideas what's going on?
Click to expand...

Damaged piston seal??
 
Took it apart again, no relief valves, nothing binding, very simple cheezy set up. Cut off enough coils so that it is halfway between the original spring length and the maximum I had jammed in there. Cocks with less grunt and the trigger isn't so brutal. Going to the range next week, I'll try to remember to drag it along.
 
Disagree.
Wasting time and money on trying to improve a Diana 350 Magnum would be, cuz it's already a fine springer. US model approaching 1250 fps.

Tinkering on a Chinese spring from PA, learning things on the way...why not?

savagefan think finding a different spring (higher carbon maybe) might be an avenue to go down, or try what FarmerDanz suggested and weight the piston.

Keep us informed.
 
Go to http s://www.airgunforum.ca/forums/?sid=48cecececedce9cd9159d35738d11b2b and search the issue. Sure to be Good advice there.
 
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